• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.38-48
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• 2002

Theoretical development to generate the directional extreme waves in model basin is established based on wave focusing method. The effects of associated parameters, such as the directional range, frequency width, and center frequency, are investigated in terms of wave focusing efficiency. The two different spectral models of constant wave amplitude and constant wave slope are applied to control the wave characteristics. The wave packets simulated by theory are compared with numerical results based on Boussinesq equation and FEM. Both controls of direction and frequency spectrum are essential to focus directional waves effectively. It is noticed that wave focusing ability depends on the frequency bandwidth of spectrum rather than center frequency, and both spectral models with same parameters result in the equivalent efficiency of wave focusing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.95-102
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• 1996

The skewness of near-bottom velocity distribution caused by the nonlinear interaction of the second order waves proposed by Wells (1967) has been re-evaluated. The direction of cross-shore sediment transport was related to the sign of the third moment (skewness) of velocity distribution, and a new concept of neutral depth which can explain the recovery of beach equilibrium after a disturbance is suggested. The seasonal change of beach profile due to the change of wave condition (storm-swell profile) is interpreted in terms of nonlinear interaction of the waves rather than the conventional wave steepness. The beach is eroded (storm profile) when the nonlinear interaction of the waves is strong (storm wave), whereas the beach is accreted (swell profile) when the nonlinear interaction is weak (swell wave).

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.30 no.8 s.114
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• pp.649-655
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• 2006

Waves progressing into the coastal area can be amplified, swashed and overtopped by a wave overtopping control structure, and it converts the kinetic energy of the waves to the potential energy with a hydraulic head above the mean sea level by conserving the overflow in a reservoir. Then the potential energy in the form of hydraulic head can be converted to electric power utilizing extremely low-head hydraulic turbine. This study aims to find the most optimal shape of wave overtopping structure which maximizes overtopping volume rate of sea water. Laboratory experiments for the performance evaluation of wave overtopping control structures were carried out in three dimensional wave tank, and the three dimensional structure models with planar wave concentration shapes(B/b) were manufactured into five classes, which were optimized by cross sectional parameters of the structure, ie, length of ramp(l), gradient of inclined ramp($cot{\phi}$) and freeboard height of the wave overtopping structure($h_e$) proposed by Shin and Hong(2005). The wave overtopping discharges were investigated with 20 incident wave conditions and wave directions of $0^{\circ},\;15^{\circ},\;30^{\circ}$.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.73-87
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• 2019

Ocean waves are the driving force for the sediment transport and the beach process. However, wave actions are nonlinear and non-stationary, and the response of the beach is inconsistent in terms of reaction rate and magnitude. Therefore, the beach process is difficult to predict accurately. The purpose of this study is to identify the correlations between the shoreline change and ocean waves observed in the east coast of Korea. The relation of the beach width obtained from video monitoring at five sandy beaches and the wave data obtained from nearby wave monitoring at three points was analyzed. Although the correlations estimated over the whole data sets was not significant, the correlations estimated based on the seasonal period or wave conditions provided more noteworthy information. When the non-exceedance probability of the wave height was greater than 0.99, the wave period and beach width showed strong negative correlations. In case the non-exceedance probability of the wave period was greater than 0.99, the wave height and beach width showed strong negative correlations as well. Furthermore, the erosion rate of the beach width increased when the primary wave direction was close to normal to the coastline. Little significant seasonal or monthly change was found between the beach width and the wave, but it was greatly affected by intensive events such as typhoons. Thus, it is necessary to analyze in detail the wave height or period level explaining the change of beach width for more relevant and practical information.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2013.06a
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• pp.118-119
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• 2013

마리나 시설 내 계류된 선박 및 레저장비를 악천 후 해상상태와 선박 운항에 의해 발생된 파로부터 장비 및 인명의 안전을 위한 파 제거 장치가 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 국내 각 지자체의 수요에 부응하고 시설 및 인명의 안전을 위한 소파 시스템개발을 목적으로 시제품 제작(설계, 해석, 수조시험 등 수행완료)하였다. 실해상 성능시험에서 항주파의 발생을 위해 시험선박 선정하였으며, 소파장치 전후의 파고계측 등을 위해 부가물을 계측하여 파고를 촬영 및 계측하였다. 개발된 소파장치의 실해상 시험임을 감안해 해상 주위의 조류, 풍속, 인근 해역에서 오는 파랑변형 등에 따른 파랑요소를 고려하여 시험하였다. 부소파제는 약 40~80% 의 에너지 감소율을 보였으며, 유의파고 조건에서 42%의 에너지 감소율을 보였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2019.05a
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• pp.48-50
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• 2019

항만 및 해안구조물의 안정성이나 연안지형 변화 등에 가장 주요한 외력조건 중 하나인 파랑의 효율적인 관측을 위하여, 선박용 X-band 레이다를 이용항 파랑 모니터링 시스템을 활용할 수 있다. 과거 해외 시스템의 국내 적용시 문제점을 개선한 3S-system (한동대학교 개발)의 건설현장 실적용 사례를 통해 실시간 공간관측 가능한 파랑 시스템 운영을 소개하고, 이를 해상공사 중 작업선박에 대한 관제시스템으로 확장 사용하는 안에 대하여 제시하였다. 향후 추가적인 확장성에 대해서도 공유하고자 한다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.54-62
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• 2009

The present study investigates the behaviour of overtopping flows falling on the leeside of a caisson breakwater with dissipating blocks through laboratory measurements. The falling overtopping flows in the leeside are expected to directly affect the leeside stability of the breakwater. This study focuses on not the resultant stability but the characteristic pattern of the overtopping flows depending on wave conditions through examining front velocity and plunging distance in the leeside. Regular waves were used to investigate the dependence of the overtopping flow pattern on wave conditions and a modified image velocimetry combining the shadowgraphy and cross-correlation method was employed for measurements of image and velocity. From the measurements, it is shown that the plunging distance and front velocity of the overtopping flow in the breakwater leeside increase as the wave period or height increases. From non-dimensional relationships between the variables, empirical formula for the velocity and overtopping distance are suggested.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.45-64
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• 1993

This paper dealt with the application of a numerical method developed by the authors using the matching method proposed in the previous paper on "The Nonlinear motions of cylinders(I)[16]", and Cauchy's theorem to the problems associated with hydrodynamic forces acting on a heaving cylinders translating in a calm water and also motions of cylinders in waves. In spectral method. body boundary condition in submerged case is satisfied exactly but one in floating case is not satisfied exactly. In the numerical code developed here, the boundary condition at the free-surface and body surface is satisfied exactly at its instaneous position. It is of interest to note that the present scheme could be applied to a free-surface-piercing body without experiencing a difficulty in the numerical convergence. The computed results are compared with other results([6], [12]).