• Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.45-52
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• 2009

In this paper, a guideline for designing breakwater in wave loads and in seismic loads is proposed. A simple model structure in breaking wave zone is examined using Morison equation in consideration with the effect of an impact load, for evaluation of the wave loads. As the impact load effect is not significant, pressure distributions according to Goda are applied for evaluation of wave loads on breakwater. Structural behavior of breakwater in wave loads can be obtained using the Goda method, as well. For seismic analysis, Ofunato and Hachinohe models, as well as an artificial seismic acceleration loads model, are adopted. Soil-structure interaction analysis is carried out to find the seismic load effect. It is found that, in certain cases, structural deformation in wave loads is in the same level as deformation that in seismic loads. Thus, it is our recommendation that these two loads are considered at the same level in breakwater design.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.181-193
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• 2000

This paper presents the flow and the suspended sediment movement over ripples for oscillatory flows. A new numerical model system is developed, and applied to a laboratory experimental condition of regular waves and a fictitious condition of irregular waves. The flow field is obtained from a programme proposed by Kim et. al.(1994), which is a modified version of SOLA based on SMAC scheme. The sub-model solves the continuity and Reynolds momentum equations in the x-z plane. The wave orbital velocities, shear stresses, and pressure are all reasonably reproduced by the model. The model results on the vertical velocity component show good agreement with the measurements. The suspended sediment transport sub-model is newly set up to solve the advection-diffusion equation of suspended sediment using a split method, and involving a special shear entrainment from the whole ripple surface. The calculated suspended sediment concentrations for regular waves show reasonable agreement with measurements at Deltaflume. The model results for random waves show that the suspended sediment concentration is higher than those for regular waves and that the sediment diffuses higher than for regular waves with the significant wave height and the peak wave period of the irregular waves.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.231-238
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• 1992

Error vector propagation method is applied to the elliptic mild slope equation in order to reduce the computation time. Results from the elliptic, parabolic, and hyperbolic models are compared with experimental data for an elliptic shoal. Also, results of the elliptic and hyperbolic models are compared with experimental data for a detached breakwater. As a result of applying this model. it is concluded that the present model satisfactorily reduces the computation time compared with other numerical models. In the accuracy of solutions, there are some oscillations but the trend compares well with other models.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.462-469
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• 2009

This study suggests a general formula of non-cohesive sediment transport rates for waves and currents which is also valid for wave only or current only condition. On-offshore sediment transport rates with the second order Stokes wave in the shallow water are calculated as the pickup rate times the distance. The formula depicts reasonably that high waves move material offshore, and low waves move material onshore. Also the formula, as is the case the waves with long period tend to move material onshore, shows good results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.159-166
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• 2003

In this study, we develop a finite element model to directly solve the Laplace equation while keeping the same computational efficiency as the models based on the extended mild-slope equation which has been widely used for calculation of wave transformation in shallow water. For this, the computational domain is discretized into finite elements with a single layer in the vertical direction. The velocity potential in the element is then expressed in terms of the potentials at the nodes located at water surface, and the Galerkin method is used to construct the numerical model. A common shape function is adopted in horizontal direction, and the cosine hyperbolic function in vertical direction, which describes the vertical behavior of progressive waves. The model was developed for vertical two-dimensional problems. In order to verify the developed model, it is applied to vertical two-dimensional problems of wave reflection and transmission. It is shown that the present finite element model is comparable to the models based on extended mild-slope equations in both computational efficiency and accuracy.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.59-59
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• 2011

파랑의 전파와 변형에 대한 연구에는 수심방향으로 적분한 2차원방정식인 완경사방정식과 Boussinesq 방정식을 기반으로 한 수치모형을 이용한 연구가 최근까지 가장 활발하게 진행되어 오고 있다. 그러나 실제 구조물의 설계에는 2차원 수치모형에서 고려할 수 없는 수심방향 유속에 기인한 정확도의 문제로 인해 구조물의 형상과 재원을 설계하기 위한 정교한 수치모형실험이 어려워 주로 수리모형실험에 의존해 왔다. 수리모형실험은 실제 현상을 가장 잘 재현해낼 수 있어 신뢰성이 매우 높지만 다양한 실험을 수행하기가 어렵고 많은 시간과 비용이 소요되는 단점이 있다. 이에 따라 최근 수심방향으로 완전한 운동방정식인 Navier-Stokes 방정식을 푸는 3차원 수치모형에 대한 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있다. 이론적으로 매우 우수한 모형이긴 하나 정확도 높은 결과를 얻기 위해서는 매우 조밀한 격자를 필요로 하기 때문에 아직까지 막대한 계산시간이 필요하다는 단점이 있으나 컴퓨터 기술이 급격한 속도로 발전하고 있어 Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형의 적용 가능성은 계속 높아지고 있다. 파랑변형을 다루는 수치모형실험을 수행할 때 외부조파를 사용할 경우 구조물이나 지형에 의해 반사되어 나온 파랑이 조파지점에 도달할 때 실험영역으로 재 반사되는 문제가 발생한다. 이를 해결하기 위해 내부조파기법의 개발에 대한 연구가 필수적이었으며, 자유수면변위를 변수로 사용하는 모형의 경우 그 연구가 매우 활발하게 진행되어 왔다. 한편, Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형의 경우 자유수면변위를 변수로 사용하는 2차원 모형에 비해 상대적으로 연구가 미흡하였다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 연직 2차원 Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형에 사용된 연속방정식에 질량 원천항을 추가하는 내부조파기법을 도입하여 3차원 수치모형에서 고립파를 내부조파하고, 급경사에서의 고립파의 처오름 및 처내림 현상을 수리모형 실험결과와 비교 및 분석하였다. 수치모형은 Navier-Stokes 방정식을 엇갈림 격자체계에서 계산하는 동수압 모형으로서, Two-step projection 기법을 사용하는 유한차분모형을 사용하였다. 본 수치모형은 난류의 해석을 위해서 상대적으로 큰 에디(eddy)만을 고려하는 SANS(spatially averaged Navier-Stokes) 방정식을 계산하는 LES(large-eddy-simulation) 기반의 수치모형으로, 난류 모델링을 위해 Smagorinsky LES 모형을 사용한다. 또한, 압력장의 계산을 위해 Bi-CGSTAB 기법을 이용하여 Poisson 방정식의 해를 구하였으며, 자유수면 추적을 위하여 2차 정확도의 VOF(volume-of-fluid) 기법을 사용하였다. 수치모형실험이 전체적으로 수리모형실험에서 관측한 파랑의 처오름 및 처내림 현상을 잘 재현하고 있는 것으로 나타났으며, 정량적인 비교를 통해 수치모형의 성능을 검증하였다.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.65-70
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• 2009

The hybrid numerical model is developed by combining BEM that can calculate the wave motion rapidly under the potential theory and CADMAS-SURF that solves Navier-Stokes equations for the free surface variation near the structure, In the hybrid model the calculation of wave motion in a wide field of wave reflection for deep water area is conducted by BEM but for shallow water area by CADMAS-SURF. Especially the hybrid model can calculate random wave motions for long term period more rapidly with almost similar accuracy than the calculation of wave motion which was carried out by CADMAS-SURF only. In this study the coupling model was applied to the calculation of the strong nonlinear wave motion such as wave runup and overtopping at the coastal structure on the mild-slope bottom and the results of numerical model were compared with the Toyosima's experiments of regular wave runup and Goda's design diagram of ramdom wave overtopping, respectively.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.873-883
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• 2014

This study proposed an estimation method of allowable wave height for loading and unloading of the ship considering ship motion that is affected by ship sizes, mooring conditions, wave periods and directions. The method was examined validity by comparison with wave field data at pier $8^{th}$ in Pohang new harbor. The wave field data obtained with wave height of 0.10~0.75m and wave period of 7~13s in ship sizes of 800~35,000ton when a downtimes have occurred. On the other hand, the results of allowable wave height for loading and unloading of the ship in this method have obtained with wave heights of 0.19~0.50m and wave periods of 8~12s for ship sizes of 5,000, 10,000 and 30,000ton. Thus this method well reproduced the field data respond to various a ship sizes and wave periods. And the results of this method tended to decrease in 16~62% when have considered long wave, and it is decreased in 0~46% when didn't consider long wave than design standards in case of the ship sizes of 5,000~30,000ton, wave period of 12s and wave angle of $75^{\circ}C$. The allowable wave heights for loading and unloading of the ship proposed by design standards are didn't respond to various the ship sizes and wave periods, and we have found that the design standards has overestimated on smaller than 10,000ton.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.189-196
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• 1999

In order to verify a numerical model for the calculation of wave motion around an offshore barrier in shallow water, laboratory physical experiments are necessary. In this study, sample experiments are carried out on the wave and wave induced current fields due to a sloping bottom topography and on that due to an isolated structure from the coastline. The water body is divided into 4 levels, in which the current tracking floaters are deployed to measure the wave induced currents. Data measurement was continued using the limited wave gauges and current tracking floaters including a video camera from the top. The wave heights for the preselected surface and time-averaged velocity distributions at each level were measured in detail. The distribution of wave and current fields was analyzed precisely combining the whole measured laboratory data. Moreover, comprehensive analyses were carried out on non-linearity of wave transformation in terms of skewness and atiltness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.111-117
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• 2010

A three-dimensional numerical model is employed to investigate wave deformation due to a submerged structure. The three-dimensional numerical model solves the spatially averaged Navier-Stokes equations for two-phase flows. The LES(large-eddy-simulation) approach is adopted to model the turbulence effect by using the Smagorinsky SGS(sub-grid scale) closure model. The two-step projection method is employed in the numerical solutions, aided by the Bi-CGSTAB technique to solve the pressure Poisson equation for the filtered pressure field. The second-order accurate VOF(volume-of-fluid) method is used to track the distorted and broken free surface. A simple linear wave is generated on a constant depth and compared with analytical solutions. The model is then applied to study wave deformation due to a submerged structure and the predicted results are compared with available laboratory measurements.