• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.297-304
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to observe the applicability of parabolic mild-slope equations allowing relatively large angles of wave propagation based on the use of a Pade approximant or minimax approximation and also the applicability of the models with nonlinearity of diffracted waves in the shadow zone behind coastal structures. To accomplish these objectives, numerical solutions are obtained from the above parabolic models and are compared with the results from Watanabe and Maruyama's(1984) hydraulic model test on the wave field with an impermeable detached breakwater. From this study, it is found that computed wave heights increase for the nonlinear results in comparison to the linear results due to the increased diffraction effect across the geometric shadow boundary. The model with a larger aperture with respect to the principal direction was found to spread laterally to a much greater degree where spreading angle (diffraction effect) is relatively large. which causes a distortion in the overall results due to the error accumulated by the approximation of wave length.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.181-193
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• 2000

This paper presents the flow and the suspended sediment movement over ripples for oscillatory flows. A new numerical model system is developed, and applied to a laboratory experimental condition of regular waves and a fictitious condition of irregular waves. The flow field is obtained from a programme proposed by Kim et. al.(1994), which is a modified version of SOLA based on SMAC scheme. The sub-model solves the continuity and Reynolds momentum equations in the x-z plane. The wave orbital velocities, shear stresses, and pressure are all reasonably reproduced by the model. The model results on the vertical velocity component show good agreement with the measurements. The suspended sediment transport sub-model is newly set up to solve the advection-diffusion equation of suspended sediment using a split method, and involving a special shear entrainment from the whole ripple surface. The calculated suspended sediment concentrations for regular waves show reasonable agreement with measurements at Deltaflume. The model results for random waves show that the suspended sediment concentration is higher than those for regular waves and that the sediment diffuses higher than for regular waves with the significant wave height and the peak wave period of the irregular waves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.613-619
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• 2017

Recently, the size of container ships has been progressively increasing, and much attention is required for safe navigation in shallow areas such as coastal waters and ports due to increases in draft. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of ship motion not only in still waters but also with waves. Especially in shallow regions, squat due to the vertical movement of the ship can be an important evaluation factor for the safe navigation, and wave drift force acting in the horizontal direction can have a great influence on the maneuverability of a ship. In this study, a numerical simulation using computational fluid dynamics has been performed for the wave exciting force acting in the vertical direction and the wave drift force acting in the horizontal direction for a very large container vessel sailing in shallow zone. As a result, it was found that total resistance in still waters greatly increased in shallow water. Wave drift force was shown to decrease given longer wavelengths regardless of water depth. It was observed that the wave exciting force in shallow water was considerably larger than at other water depths. As wave height against the central part of the ship lowered, the aft side rose.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.107-115
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• 2021

In order to analyze wave propagation, tidal current, and sediment transport in the vicinity of the Gaeya open channel, it was classified into before(CASE1W) and after(CASE2W) installation of various artificial structures, and the calculation results for CASE1W and CASE2W were compared. For wave propagation, the results of incident and reflected waves were derived using the SWAN numerical model, and the tidal current velocity results were derived using the FLOW2DH numerical model for tidal current. The results of the SWAN numerical model and the FLOW2DH numerical model became the input conditions for the SEDTRAN numerical model that predicts sediment transport, and the maximum bed shear stress and suspended sediment concentration distribution near the Gaeya open channel were calculated through the SEDTRAN numerical model. As a result of the calculation of the SWAN numerical model, the wave height of CASE2W was increased by 40~50 % compared to CASE1W because the incident wave was diffracted and superimposed and the reflected wave was generated by about 7 km long northen jetty. As a result of the calculation of the FLOW2DH numerical model, According to the northen breakwater, the northen jetty and Geumrando, CASE2W was calculated 10~30 % faster than CASE1W in the tidal current of the Gaeya open channel. As a result of the calculation of the SEDTRAN numerical model, the section where the maximum bed shear stress is 1.0 N/m² or more and the suspended concentration is 80mg/L or more was widely distributed in the Gaeya open channel from the marine environment by the complex wave field(incident wave, reflected wave and tidal wave) and the installation of various artificial structures. it is believed that a sedimentation phenomenon occurred in the Gaeya open channel.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.219-219
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• 2022

지구 온난화와 함께 발생하는 해수면 상승은 한반도의 해안지역을 비롯하여 울릉도 등 도서지역 전반에 걸쳐 진행 중이다. 또한 해수면의 온도 상승으로 인한 열대저기압의 생성 시 에너지 공급이 증가하며 연안으로 내습하는 파랑 내습 에너지가 커지게 된다. 경상북도 울릉군에 위치한 남양항은 최근 2019년 태풍 다나스 및 2020년 태풍 마이삭 등에 의해 고파랑 혹은 침수 피해가 발생하여 항 내에서는 물양장과 선박이 파괴되고 방파제가 전도되는 등의 피해가 속출하였다. 동해안의 태풍 내습, 지구 온난화와 저기압 발달에 의한 수위 상승 등과 같은 다양한 해양기후를 고려한 연안 구조물의 파랑 영향을 검토하는 것이 중요할 것으로 판단되었다. 기상청 태풍센터에서 제공하는 1979년부터 2020년까지 한반도 해역에 내습한 태풍 중 울릉도에 영향을 미친 태풍은 18개로 울릉도 인근에 영향을 준 내습 태풍을 10년 단위로 분석해 보면, 1980년대 3개, 1990년대 2개, 2000년대 8개, 2010년대 3개, 2020년 2개로 2000년대에 울릉도 영향권에 들어간 태풍이 가장 많았으며, 심해파 추산 기간 이후 2020년 1년 동안 울릉도 인근으로 마이삭, 하이선과 같은 2개의 태풍이 연속적으로 영향을 주었다. 울릉도에 영향을 미친 18개 태풍을 대상으로 일본 기상청(JMA)에서 제공하는 1시간 바람장을 이용하여 파랑 후측 수치 모의를 수행하였으며, 해양수산부와 기상청 관측 부이를 이용하여 파랑에 대한 정확도를 확보하였다. 고파랑 내습 시 연안에 조우하는 수위 조건은 파랑 에너지의 증가를 결정하게 되며, 항만 구조물의 설계에 적용되고 있는 약최고고조위 이상(4대분조의 최대 조위)의 최극조위 조건에서 해안 구조물에 월파 및 침수 피해를 주는 요인으로 작용할 수 있다. 이를 바탕으로 울릉도 남양항에서 폭풍 시 내습한 최극고조위(0.65m)와 IPCC 5차 보고서에 제시한 최악의 시나리오(RCP 8.5) 조건에서 울릉도에서 확인된 0.79 cm 상승고를 반영하여 범람위험평가를 광역에서의 계산 결과를 입력자료로 하여 준 3차원 비 정수압 파랑 변형 수치 모형인 MIKE 3 Wave를 사용하여 실험하였다. 해수면 상승에 의한 수위 상승고는 연안 파랑 증가에 영향을 주었으며 연안 구조물의 침수 피해에 영향을 줄 것으로 판단되었다. 월파 차단, 파랑 차폐의 목적으로 건설되는 구조물의 규모 및 천단고 등을 설정하는데 설계 수위의 선정은 중요하다. 수치 실험 결과를 바탕으로 방파제 및 호안의 범람 위험 평가를 수행하고 구조물 설계 시 이러한 해수면 상승고가 반영된 설계가 중요하다는 것을 위험 평가를 통해 확인할 수 있다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.73-79
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• 2001

In this study, a submerged plate-type breakwater is considered, which is supported by elastic foundation. This breakwater makes use of wave phase interaction among the incident, diffracted and radiated waves. We apply a three-dimensional singularity distribution method within the linear potential theory in order to describe the wave field. The submerged plate is assumed to be rigid and the elastic support be a linear spring with constant stiffness. A typical rectangle plate is exemplified for numerical calculation. The thickness of the plate is carefully selected in order to guarantee the solution to be stable by checking the condition number of the system matrix. A parametric study is carried out for examining the effect of the stiffness of the elastic support on performance of the breakwater. We also examine the effect of the submerged depth.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.116-126
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• 2003

In this study, a method that leads to make a simple decision on important parameters in analysis of wave field in permeable rubble-mound, block-mound breakwater, such as penetration velocity of incident waves and resistance coefficient, is introduced. A model that could analyze wave field of permeable breakwater in harbor, by applying these methods and arbitrary transmission coefficient boundary condition to a time-dependent mild-slope equation, was introduced. The verification of the model was done by carrying out 2-D physical model test on permeable breakwater, measuring the change in water surface elevation, comparing the computation result with time series, and comparing the result gained from the 3-D physical model test on permeable block-mound breakwater in an field harbor with the computation result in terms of regional wave height ratio in a harbor.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.351-362
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Maemi incident on the south sea of Korea in 2003 are performed using the JMA-MSM forecast weather field, NCEP-CFSR reanalysis weather field, ECMWF-ERA5 reanalysis weather field, and the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by JTWC. The calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the coasts of Korea. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the measured data. Based on the comparison of surge and wave heights the assessment of the reliability of various weather fields is performed. As a result the JMA-MSM weather fields gives the highest reliability, and the weather field obtained using JTWC best track information gives also relatively good agreement. The ECMWF-ERA5 gives in general surge and wave heights weaker than the measured. The reliability of NCEP-CFSR turns out to be the worst for this special case of Typhoon Maemi. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.120-127
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• 2012

Exploratory data analysis was carried out by using the long-term wave climate data in Sokcho coastal zone. The main features found in this study are as follows. The coefficient of variations on the wave height and period are about 0.11 and 0.02, respectively. It also shows that the annual components of the wave height and period are dominant and their amplitudes are 0.24 m and 0.56 seconds, respectively. The amount of intra-annual variation range is about two times greater than that of the inter-annual variation range. The distribution shapes of the wave data are very similar to the log-normal and GEV(generalized extreme value) functions. However, the goodness-of-fit tests based on the KS test show as "rejected" for all suggested density functions. Then, the structure of the timeseries wave height data is roughly estimated as AR(3) model. Based on the wave duration results, it is clearly shown that the continuous and maximum duration is decreased as a power function shape and the total duration is exponentially decreased. Meanwhile, the environment of the Sokcho coastal zone is classified as a wave-dominated environment.