• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2003.05a
• /
• pp.141-146
• /
• 2003

Time seres of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1) The relationship between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2019.11a
• /
• pp.150-152
• /
• 2019

In this study, the effects of the wave field changes due to the coastal structure on the hydrodynamic performance of the OWC wave energy, converter are analyzed using a three-dimensional numerical wave tank technique (NWT). The OWC device is simulated numerically by introducing a linear pressure drop model, considering the coupling effect between the turbine and the OWC chamber in the time domain. The flow distribution around the chamber is different due to the change of reflection characteristics depending on the consideration of the breakwater model. The wave energy captured from the breakwater is spatially distributed on the plane of the front of the breakwater, and the converted pneumatic power increased when concentrated in front of the chamber. The change of the standing wave distribution is repeated according to the relationship between the incident wavelength and the length of the breakwater, and the difference in energy conversion performance of the OWC was confirmed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.31 no.5
• /
• pp.265-277
• /
• 2019

Using the measured data of waves and shore-line, we reviewed the grand circulation process and seasonal variation of beach cusp at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp. In order to track the temporal and spatial variation trends of beach cusp, we quantify the beach cusp in terms of its wave length and amplitude detected by threshold crossing method. In doing so, we also utilize the spectral analysis method and its associated spectral mean sand wave number. From repeated period of convergence and ensuing splitting of sand waves detected from the yearly time series of spectral mean sand wave number of beach cusp, it is shown that the grand circulation process of beach cusp at Mang-Bang beach are occurring twice from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20. For the case of beach area, it increased by $14,142m^2$ during this period, and the shore-line advanced by 18 m at the northen and southern parts of the Mang-Bang beach whereas the shore-line advanced by 2.4 m at the central parts of Mang-Bang beach. It is also worthy of note that the beach area rapidly increased by $30,345m^2$ from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22. which can be attributed to the nature of coming waves. During this period, mild swells of long period were prevailing, and their angle of attack were next to zero. These characteristics of waves imply that the main transport mode of sediment would be the cross-shore. Considering the facts that self-healing capacity of natural beaches is realized via the cross-shore sediment once temporarily eroded. it can be easily deduced that the sediment carried by the boundary layer streaming toward the shore under mild swells which normally incident toward the Mang-Bang beach makes the beach area rapidly increase from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22.

• Proceedings of KOSOMES biannual meeting
• /
• 2006.11a
• /
• pp.53-58
• /
• 2006

Along with the development of costal engineering, various type of breakwaters have been built. The main purpose of breakwaters are to provide harbour protection against waves, to stabilize beaches against erosion due to large wave action, and to provide for temporary wave protection for installation on or under water surface. This paper an application example of PIV system for analyzing the flow of Floating Breakwater with double barriers. We introduce an analysis method to predict the characteristics of flow around the neighboring fields of Floating Breakwater with double barriers in order to develop a high performance model. Flow visualization has conducted in circulating water channel by a high speed camera and etc. Flowing phenomenon according to velocity distribution and flow separation around the breakwater with double barriers were obtained by 2-D PIV system.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.37-43
• /
• 1995

The procedure and the results of the full scale strain measurement of the long-range high-speed foil catamaran are described. The wave induced stresses at the center struts of the foils were measured during the sea trials in order to evaluate the hydrodynamic force acting on the foils and to verify the structural safety of the foil structures. From the statistical properties of the measured response of the stress, the most probable maximum values of the lift force and the stresses at the foils in service life of the ship are predicted and compared with the design parameters of the foils which were applied in the design of the subject ship. The available prediction processes of the measured stress are studied and the results of the applied processes are compared with each other.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.153-165
• /
• 2018

In this study, the performance of irregular wave field generation of olaFlow is first verified by comparing the frequency spectrum of the generated waves by the wave-source using olaFlow and the target wave. Based on the wave performance of irregular waves of olaFlow, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters, which act as the main external forces of the salient formation, are numerically investigated. The numerical results show that as the gap width between breakwaters decreases, the wave height in the center of the gap increases and as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.34 no.4
• /
• pp.119-127
• /
• 2022

To investigate varying wave impact pressure exerting at the crest wall of rubble mound seawall, depending on breaking wave properties, regular waves with different wave periods were generated. Wave velocity fields and void fraction were measured using bubble image velocimetry and simple combined wave gauge system (Na and Son, 2021). For the waves with shorter wave period, maximum horizontal velocity was less reduced compared to incident wave speed while breaking-induced air entrainment was occurred intensely, leading to a significant reduction of wave impact pressure at the crest wall. For the waves with longer wave periods, less air wave entrained and the wave structure followed a flip-through mode (Cooker and Peregrine, 1991), resulting in an abrupt increase of the impact pressure.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.28 no.2B
• /
• pp.249-259
• /
• 2008

The present paper studies the effect of the slope gradient of a fully permeable submerged breakwater using a newly developed numerical model that is able to consider the flow through a porous midium with inertial, laminar and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve-Structure (submerged breakwater)-Sand seabed interaction and can determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulence model in 2-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-2D). The developed model was validated through the comparison with an existing experimental data, and further used for various numerical experiments in oder to investigate the complicated hydrodynamics on the varying slope gradient of permeable submerged breakwater. We found an acceptable phenomenon, as we expect intuitively, that reflection and transmission coefficients decrease simultaneously as slope gradient decrease. In addition, the breaking point, the circulation flow and mean vorticity around a submerged breakwater are throughly discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.219-226
• /
• 1995

The wave interaction with flexible membrane such as PVC and PU fabrics is studied to prove its applicability to portable breakwaters. To analyze the wave deformation due to the flexible membrane. eigen-function expansion method is employed. The fluid domain is seperated into two regions. The velocity potential in each regions and the deformation of membrane are coupled by the body boundary conditions. Herein the deformation of membrane is obtained by solving the membrane equation. As a numerical example, transmission and reflection coefficients according to the change of several design parameters such as tensile force. mooring line stiffness and membrane height are investigated. It is found that the efficiency of flexible membrane breakwater is significantly affected by these design parameters. The angle of incident wave is an important role to the performance of breakwater. Finally we conclude that flexible membrane can be used to engineering material for the future breakwaters.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
• /
• 2002.10a
• /
• pp.273-276
• /
• 2002

Many artificial steel reefs are being built in Japan, however, in Korea, only few steel reefs were manufactured by POSCO, recently. In order to develop their novel types suitable for marine environments near the Korean Peninsula, it is very important to carry out model tests in the initial design stage. In the Ocean Engineering Wide Tank($L{\times}B{\times}D=30{\times}20{\times}2.5m$) and the Circulating Water Channel of the University of Ulsan, Korea, fluid drag forces acting on models of steel reefs with different sizes are measured in waves and currents. Also numerical predictions based on the Wavier-Stokes equation are made and compared with experimental results.