• Title/Summary/Keyword: 파랑작용

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심해파랑의 비선형상호작용에 의한 에너지 전달의 계산

  • 오병철;이길성
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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    • 1996.10a
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    • pp.119-123
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    • 1996
  • 파랑성분간의 비선형상호작용에 의한 에너지의 교환은 스펙트럼 파랑에너지 보존방정식의 중요한 원천항(source)의 하나이며 이의 정확한 계산에 관한 연구가 파랑모델에서 중요한 문제로서 제기되어 왔다. 그러나 비선형에너지 전달을 엄밀하게 계산하는데는 많은 시간이 소요되기 때문에 현재 현업에서는 스펙트럼파라메타로서 간략화한 식을 사용하고 있다. 비선형상호작용은 파랑이 발달하고 있는 풍역에서 중요하기 때문에 비대칭 스펙트럼에 대한 비선형상호작용의 파라메터화는 풍속이 급변하는 풍장에서 매우 중요하다. (중략)

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Analysis on Mechanism of Wave Attenuation under Wave-Current Interaction (파랑-흐름의 상호작용에 의한 파랑변형 메커니즘 분석)

  • Lee, Woo-Dong;Hur, Dong-Soo
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.36 no.4
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    • pp.645-650
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    • 2016
  • In this study, we conducted a numerical simulation using Navier-Stokes Solver (HYMO-WASS-3D) in order to analyze wave attenuation under wave-current interaction found in existing hydraulic experiments. It showed that wave energy and wave height are reduced as the wave propagates in coexisting fields between waves and currents. And the wave attenuation became more serious as the velocity of current and thus turbulence intensity were increased at wave-current coexisting field. As well, the wave attenuation became more serious with lower wave height and shorter period when the wave propagates the same distance under interactions between waves and currents.

Numerical Simulation of Regular Wave Transformation due to Wave-induced Current over a Submerged Elliptic Shoal (수중타원형 천퇴를 통과하는 규칙파의 파랑쇄파류에 의한 변형)

  • Choi, Jun-Woo;Yoon, Sung-Bum
    • Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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    • 2007.05a
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    • pp.570-576
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    • 2007
  • 수중천퇴가 있는 지형을 통과하며 변형하는 파랑을 실험한 Vincent와 Briggs (1989)의 실험조건을 수치모의하여 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용 효과를 연구하였다. SHORECIRC 흐름모형을 결합한 파랑모형 REF/DIF 1과 SWAN, 그리고 파랑과 흐름을 동시에 수치모의 할 수 있는 FUNWAVE를 이용하여 수중천퇴상을 통과하며 변형하고 또 다시 수중천퇴상에서 발생한 쇄파에 의해 발생된 쇄파류에 의해 변형하는 규칙파를 수치모의하였다. 수중천퇴상에서 쇄파가 발생할 때 잉여파응력의 급격한 변화에 따른 강한 유사제트류가 발생하고, 이 흐름은 수중천퇴후면의 파집중현상을 방해하여 파랑을 천퇴중심축으로부터 바깥쪽으로 굴절시켜, 파고를 상대적으로 감소시키는 역할을 한다. 이러한 역학은 실험결과와 본 연구의 수치모의를 통해 확인할 수 있었고, 이는 파랑쇄파류의 파랑변형에 미치는 역할의 중요성을 확인시켜주는 것이다. 규칙파 모의에 한계가 있는 SWAN과 규칙파 특성상 강하게 나타나는 중복파의 잉여파응력계산에 한계가 있는 REF/DIF 1과 달리 FUNWAVE를 이용한 수치모의는 실험결과와 완벽히 일치하였으며, 수중천퇴 후면에 발생하는 쇄파류와 쇄파류에 의한 쌍 vortex의 발달과정을 잘 보여 주었다.

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A Study on the Behaviour Characteristics of the Saemanguem Sea Dyke Coastal Covering Stones by Sea Waves (파랑에 의한 새만금 방조제 해측 피복석 거동특성 연구)

  • Baek, SeungChul;Lee, SoYeol
    • Journal of the Korean GEO-environmental Society
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    • v.12 no.7
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    • pp.67-76
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    • 2011
  • In this present study, to evaluate a behavior characteristics of the sea dyke coastal covering stone by sea waves. sea waves act on coastal structures as an impact load. During impact loading, erosion and bluff slumping occur in the coastal structures. Also, the covering stone are worn down by wave impact. The sea dyke has been used near coastal region for protection of infra-structure since 1970s in Korea. The sea dyke consist of dredged sand and covering stone mainly. The damage type of covering stone has been reported since 1970s. However, the interaction of impact load by sea wave with the covering stone has not been investigated yet properly. Mainly damage type of covering stone is an abrasion. But the study of covering stone abrasion is not sufficient. Hence, In this study, it was analyzed the interaction of impact load by sea wave and the covering stone during sea wave action on coastal structures. In order to analyze the behavior characteristics of coastal covering stone considering the magnitude and period of impact loading and to evaluate the displacement increment of covering stone during impact load, numerical analysis was carried out considering impact loading by sea wave.

Numerical Simulation of Jet-like Currents Influenced by Irregular Waves (불규칙 파랑의 영향을 받는 유사제트류의 수치모의)

  • Choi, Jun-Woo;Park, Won-Kyung;Bae, Jae-Seok;Yoon, Sung-Bum
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.20 no.5
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    • pp.491-497
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    • 2008
  • The effect of wave and current interactions on jet-like current flowing against waves was investigated based on numerical simulations. The numerical simulations were conducted using a model system of REF/DIF(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model). In the simulations, irregular waves refracted due to the jet-like opposing current were focused along the centerline of current, and the jet-like current was spreaded earlier when the wave heights become larger. The numerical results show that the rapid change of wave height distribution in transverse direction near current inlet plays a significant role to spread the jet-like current. In other words, the radiation stress gradients acting in transverse direction have a more significant effect on the jet-like current than its gradients acting in flowing direction which tend to accelerate the current do. In conclusion, it is indispensible to take into account the interaction between waves and current when the jet-like current such as river mouth meets opposing waves.

Wave Forces Acting on Large Vertical Circular Cylinder and Consequent Wave Transformations by Full-Nonlinear Analysis Method after Wave Breaking (강비선형해석법에 의한 대형연직원주구조물에 작용하는 쇄파후의 파력 및 파랑변형)

  • Lee, Kwang-Ho;Shin, Dong-Hoon;Kim, Do-Sam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.20 no.4
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    • pp.401-412
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    • 2008
  • Simulations of three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate wave force acting on a large cylindrical structure and consequent wave deformation, which are induced by bore after breaking waves. The numerical model is based on the three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with a finite-difference method combined with a volume of fluid(VOF) method, which is capable of tracking the complex free surface, including wave breaking. In order to promote wave breaking of the incident wave, the approach slope was built seaward of the structure with a constant slope and a large cylindrical structure was installed on a flat bed. The incident waves were broken on the approach slope or flat bed by its wave height. In the present study, all waves acting on the large cylindrical structure were limited to breaking bore after wave breaking. The effects of the position of the structure and the incident wave height on the wave force and wave transformations were mainly investigated with the concern of wave breaking. Further, the relations between the variation of wave energy by wave propagation after wave breaking and wave force acting on the structure were discussed to give the understanding of the full-linear wave-structure interactions in three-dimensional wave fields.

Analysis of Wave Data and Estimation of Littoral Drifts for the Eastern Coast of Korea (한국동해안의 파랑 자료 분석 및 표사량 추정)

  • 김아리;이정열;최병호
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.18-34
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    • 2001
  • Statistical analysis oflong-tenn wave data resulted from HYPA(HYbrid PArametric wave model) for the eastern coast of Korea was performed. Subsequently a simple approach for predicting the global annual and seasonal littoral drifts has been derived to estimate littoral sediment budget.

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Tide, swash infiltration and groundwater behavior (조석, 파랑의 침투와 지하수 거동)

  • Kang, Hong-Yoon;Kobayashi, Nobuhisa
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.153-162
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    • 1997
  • 시간평균된 해안의 지하수위는 내륙쪽에 강우가 없는 경우에도 평균해수면 (Mean Sea Level)보다 1내지 2미터 정도 높은 것으로 관측되었다. 이러한 해안의 지하수위상승현상은 주로 파랑과 조석의 작용에 의해 나타난다. 본 연구에서는 지하수위상승에 미치는 조석 및 파랑의 효과를 현장관측결과를 통해 정량적으로 보여주었으며, 또한 이들 각각의 작용에 기인한 지하수위상승에 대한 해석해 및 최근 이론들을 제시하였다. 특히, 최근 지하수의 수리학적 모델링에 관한 연구에서 파랑의 침투 (wave runup infiltration)효과의 중요성이 강조되었는 바, 본 연구를 통해 종래에 보고된 바 없는 swash zone (shoreline과 runup limit사이)에서의 파랑의 침투속도(분포)를 지하수위관측자료를 이용해 간접적으로 산정함으로써 해안의 지하수위예측모델링을 보다 정확히 수행할 수 있으리라 사료된다.

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Wave Simulation on Youngil Bay by WAM Extended to Shallow Water (천해역으로 확장된 WAM모형에 의한 영일만 파랑모의)

  • Chun, Je-Ho;Ahn, Kyung-Mo;Yoon, Jong-Tae
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.511-520
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    • 2007
  • WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.

Study on the Course Stability of a Barge in Waves (파랑중 부선의 침로안정성에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Sangmin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.430-437
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    • 2018
  • For a ship navigating in waves, added resistance, sway force and yaw moment due to waves differ from still water conditions, which affects the maneuverability of the ship. Therefore, it is important to estimate the sway force and yaw moment generated by waves. In this study, numerical simulations were carried out to calculate the hydrodynamic forces acting on a barge in still water and waves using CFD. Based on the results, the characteristics of course stability of a barge were investigated and analyzed. The hydrodynamic forces acting on the barge in waves were stronger than in still water, and it was confirmed that hydrodynamic forces become greater as wavelength becomes longer. In long wavelength regions, the (-) value of the yaw damping lever was larger than in still water. However, in short wavelength regions and when wavelength coincided with the length of the ship, values were smaller than in still water. In this region, it can be assumed that course stability improved. In other words, in long wavelength regions, the course stability of the barge was worse than in still water and short wavelength regions. Therefore, attention is required for safe navigation in long wavelength regions.