• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.260-265
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• 1994

A new set of elliptic wave equations describing the deformations of irregular waves on a large-scale current field in water of irregular depth is given, and using finite difference scheme an efficient numerical method is also presented. The elliptic equations are solved in a similar way to Initial value problem. This method is extensively used for the calculation of wave spectral transformation. and computation results agree very well with experimental data (Hiraishi, 1991). Finally numerical examples are presented concerning the interactions between waves and currents over a mildly sloping beach and also over a mound.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.235-242
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• 1999

Wave which propagate from the offshore cause transformation of diffraction, refraction, and reflection etc. in coming in the coastal by depth change. Especially, Wave strongly show the charcateristics of rancom wave in the coastal zone. Developed wave model until a recent date analysed regular waves with height and period equal to those of the significant wave, In case of Monochromatic wave, it can be analysed fine in the offshore, but differ from in coastal zone. In this study, form of governing equation is parabolic mild slope equation. This model calculated random wave for using frequency spectrum and directional spectrum from input data condition of wave. This model is applied to Vincent shoal and compared with laboratory experimental data. The results agreed well with laboratory data.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.107-115
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• 2021

In order to analyze wave propagation, tidal current, and sediment transport in the vicinity of the Gaeya open channel, it was classified into before(CASE1W) and after(CASE2W) installation of various artificial structures, and the calculation results for CASE1W and CASE2W were compared. For wave propagation, the results of incident and reflected waves were derived using the SWAN numerical model, and the tidal current velocity results were derived using the FLOW2DH numerical model for tidal current. The results of the SWAN numerical model and the FLOW2DH numerical model became the input conditions for the SEDTRAN numerical model that predicts sediment transport, and the maximum bed shear stress and suspended sediment concentration distribution near the Gaeya open channel were calculated through the SEDTRAN numerical model. As a result of the calculation of the SWAN numerical model, the wave height of CASE2W was increased by 40~50 % compared to CASE1W because the incident wave was diffracted and superimposed and the reflected wave was generated by about 7 km long northen jetty. As a result of the calculation of the FLOW2DH numerical model, According to the northen breakwater, the northen jetty and Geumrando, CASE2W was calculated 10~30 % faster than CASE1W in the tidal current of the Gaeya open channel. As a result of the calculation of the SEDTRAN numerical model, the section where the maximum bed shear stress is 1.0 N/m² or more and the suspended concentration is 80mg/L or more was widely distributed in the Gaeya open channel from the marine environment by the complex wave field(incident wave, reflected wave and tidal wave) and the installation of various artificial structures. it is believed that a sedimentation phenomenon occurred in the Gaeya open channel.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.182-193
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• 1997

The interaction of monochromatic incident waves with a horizontal flexible membrane is investigated in the context of two-dimensional linear hydro-elastic theory. First, analytic diffraction and radiation solutions for a submerged impermeable horizontal membrane are obtained. Second, the theoretical prediction was compared with a series of experiments conducted in a two-dimensional wave tank at Texas A & M University. The measured reflection and transmission coefficients reasonably follow the trend of predicted values. Using the developed computer program, the performance of surface-mounted or submerged horizontal membrane wave barriers is tested with various system parameters and wave characteristics. It is found that the properly designed horizontal flexible membrane can be an effective wave barrier.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.83-91
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• 2004

The performance of wave control by a surface-mounted horizontal membrane is analyzed in the frame of linear potential theory. To employ the eigenfunction expansion method, the fluid domain is divided into two regions i.e. region without membrane and membrane-covered region. By matching the each solutions at boundaries of adjacent regions, the complete solution is obtained. The present analytical method solving the scattering problem directly gives the same results as Cho and Kim(1998)'s method solving the diffraction and the radiation problem separately. To verify the developed model, the model test with a surface-mounted horizontal membrane is conducted at the wave tank(36m${\times}$0.91m${\times}$l.22m). The analytic results are in good agreement with the experimental results. The reflection and transmission coefficients are investigated according to the change of membrane tension, length and incident frequencies.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-95
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• 1988

In the arctic offshore regions, massive offshore gravity platforms are recommended to be construced because of severe environments. In such structures which is so large that its characteristic length is of the order of the wave length, wave-structure interaction problem has been solved using linear diffraction theory. Structural analysis of the large scale offshore structures requires wave force distribution along depth and wave pressure distribution on the body surface. In this study, existing computer program which calculates the total wave force acting on axisymmetric bodies has been modified to calculate wave force distribution along depth and wave pressure distribution on the body surface. Numerical results of pressure distribution for a fixed vertical cylinder obtained from this analysis has been compared with the results of an analytic solution of MacCamy-Fuchs, and good agreements has been obtained. It is desirable to use 6 in the case of analytic solution, and 5 in the case of numerical solution as the Fourier Mode of Green function. The results in this study are expected to be utilized for structural analysis such as pseudo-static analysis, dynamic analysis and fatigue analysis.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.180-201
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• 2020

It has been widely known that the effect of diffracted waves at the tip of composite breakwater with finite length causes the change of standing wave height along the length of breakwater, the spatial change of wave pressure on caisson, and the occurrence of meandering damage on the different sliding distance in sequence. It is hard to deal with the spatial change of wave force on trunk of breakwater through the two-dimensional experiment and/or numerical analysis. In this study, two and three-dimensional numerical techniques with olaFlow model are used to approach the spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, it is thoroughly studied the mean wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis. In conclusion, it is confirmed that the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure checked by not two-dimensional analysis, but three-dimensional analysis through the change of wave pressure applied to the caisson along the length of breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.408-415
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• 2016

Small fishing ports and coastal structures installed in a relatively low sea water depth disturb the wave induced current and cause the collapse of equilibrium state of sediment transport. These structures creates diffracted waves and matter the concentration of waves to cause the beach erosion. In order to mitigate these eroding problems on the beach, many counter measurements were proposed such as detached breakwater, groin or headland; however, these methods interrupt the aesthetic view of sandy beach due to the exposed structures above the sea level and have difficulty of applying to those beaches with the good scenery. Furthermore, some of these methods create secondary environmental problems after the installations. To eliminate these problems, one of the countermeasures, artificial reefs have been selected and used worldwide to minimize the disturbance of the scenery and secondary effects on the environment. Meanwhile, it is important to set the design elements for installing the artificial reefs such as that of length, opening width, clearing distances from the shoreline and more. Nevertheless, there are no construction manuals or standards for designing the artificial reefs with these important design elements yet. In this study, different conditions of artificial reefs were used with various cases throughout hydraulic model test to precisely analyze the changes of waves and currents to propose the standards of design elements to install the artificial reefs.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.232-241
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• 2003

The interaction of incident monochromiatic waves with N bottom-mounted porous circular cylinders is investigated in the frame of three-dimensional linear potential theory. The fluid domain is divided into N+l regions i.e. a single exterior region and N interior regions, and the diffraction potential in each fluid region is expressed by an eigenfunction expansion method (Williams and Li,2000). The analytic results show that the porous structure reduces both the wave forces and the run-up wave around the cylinder. To verify the developed model, the systematic model test with a line array of porous cylinders is conducted at the wave tank (30m$\times$7m$\times$1.5m). The analytic results are in good agreement with the experimental results within measured frequency range. It is concluded that the breakwater constructed with an array of porous circular cylinders shows the performance of an effective wave barrier together with the seawater-exchange effect and is considered to have vast potentials for the use of seawater-exchanging breakwater in the future.