• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.531-552
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• 2020

In the previous study, both the wave characteristics at the tip of composite breakwater and on caisson were investigated by applying olaFlow numerical model of three-dimensional regular waves. In this paper, the same numerical model and layout/shape of composite breakwater as applied the previous study under the action of one directional irregular waves were used to analyze two and three-dimensional spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, the frequency spectrum, mean significant wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis were studied. In conclusion, the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure in three-dimensional analysis condition. Which was not occurred by two-dimensional analysis. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the wave pressure distribution at the caisson changes along the length of breakwater when the same significant incident wave was applied to the caisson. Although there is difference in magnitude, but its variation shows the similar tendency with the case of previous study.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.152-161
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• 1990

In this paper, a hybrid element method(HEM) for the evaluation of the hydrodynamic responses of arbitrary-shaped offshore structures is studied. The hydrodynamic pressure forces are assumed to be inertially dominated, and viscous effects are neglected. The mathematical formulation procedure of the hybrid element method with the analytical eigenseries solution is established systematically. The computer program based on the HEM has been developed, and applied to solving the wave diffraction and radiation problems for arbitrary shaped structures. From comparisons of the results obtained by using the other avaliable solution methods, the method for the evaluation of the hydrodynamic forces using the HEM and the computer program developed here have been proved to be valid.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.18-27
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• 1990

The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of har-bor structures. However, it is not easy to get the accurate computational results because they are affected by many factors concerning with the wave transformation. Successful solution also depends on determining the boundary values appropriately. This paper presents the numerical model which is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor It is based upon the time-dependent mild-slope equation involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect and reflection. In particular, the arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. This numerical model is applied for Hupo-Harbor and its validities are investgated by comparing with experimental values from the hydraulic model test as well as computational results from Taka-yama's numerical model (1981). It is shown that the model results are in good agreement with results from hydraulic model and Takayama＇s.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.116-129
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• 2000

The interaction of incident monochromatic waves with a tensioned, flexible, circular membrane submerged horizontally below free surface is investigated in the frame of three-dimensional linear hydro-elastic theory. The velocity potential is split into two parts i.e. the diffraction potential representing the scattering of incident waves by a rigid circular disk and the radiation potential describing motion induced waves by elastic responses of flexible membrane. The fluid domain is divided into three regions, and the diffraction and radiation potentials in each region are expressed by the Fourier Bessel series. The displacement of circular membrane is expanded with a set of natural functions, which satisfy the membrane equation of motion and boundary conditions. The unknown coefficients in each region are determined by applying the continuity of pressure and normal velocity at the matching boundaries. The results show that various types of wave focusing are possible by controlling the size, submergence depth, and tension of membrane.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.120-127
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• 1998

An Elliptic model for calculating the combined refraction/diffraction of monochromatic linear waves is developed, including a term which allows for the dissipation of wave energy. Conjugate gradient method is employed as a solution technique. Wave height variations are calculated for localized circular and rectangular dissipation areas. It is shown that the numerical results agree very well with analytical solution in the case of circular damping region. The localized dissipation area creates a shadow region of low wave energy and the recovery of wave height by diffraction occurs very slowly with distance behind the damping region.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.133-142
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• 1992

Beach evolution is of the most important problem is the coastal engineering. Especially, the structure construction through reclamation in the shallow water region nesar the beach will cause many severe problems around the structure. Beach evolution due to the construction of an artificial island in this study was studied using wave transform model and associated of an artificial island in this study was studied using wave transform model and associated sediment transport model. Numerical simulation of the model was applied to the Kwangan beach using the data of waves and shoreline of the area. The combined wave transform model and beach evolution model showed good results. The results show a breakwater will be needed to prevent severe erosion near the eastward Kwangan beach when construction an artificial island in the Suyong Bay. Good results of the study also suggest that the present model can be more widely applied to the prediction of beach evolution.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.84-95
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• 1994

In recent years Jin-Beach and Hyeya River mouth have experienced severe erosion phenomena. The cause of erosion is examined using a 3-dimensional nunumerical sediment transport model. The model is composed of three components : wave model, wave-induced current model and 3-dimensional sediment transport model. In the wave analysis component we consider refraction, diffraction and reflection based on Maruyama and Kajima method. For the wave-induced current model we use depth-integrated continuty equation and momentum equations. For the 3-dimensional sediment transport model we consider bed load and suspended load simutaneously. Model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach and Hyeya River mouth agreed well with experimental results.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2010

The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of harbor structures. However, it is not easy to acquire accurate computational results because these are affected by many factors concerned with wave transformation. Recently, numerical model tests, which are quicker and more economical than hydraulic model experiments, were carried out for the purpose of analyzing wave height distributions in harbors. This paper presents a numerical model that is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor. It is based on a time-dependent mild slope involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect, and reflection. In particular, arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. The proposed numerical model is applied to Samcheon new-harbor in order to investigate harbor calmness.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.28-33
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• 1990

A parabolic model is presented for the effective calculation of refraction-diffraction of regular water while they are propagating on the water of slowly varying sea bed with currents. Parabolic wave equation has been used in the model, which is derived from a mild-slope equation using Pade' approximation. With the corrections of Kirby's (1986) model some numerical experiments were carried out to analyze the model accuracy.