• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.67-74
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• 1990

A numerical model is developed to predict the shoreline change by the coastal structures constructed. In order to describe the wave deformation at the shadow zone of the structure, the present model employs the mild-slope equation in steady state and the wave ray method using the coefficients of wave refraction, diffraction and shoaling. In the model results of shoreline changes for the various structures. it showed a qualitative agreement with the findings observed in the field such as tombolo, and the response of this model was found to be very sensitive to the longshore distribution of wave heights. It was also applied to a field area. From the results of the application this model is proved to be useful around the complex coastal structures and bottom topography.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.84-96
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• 2006

This paper presents a simplified numerical method that can be used to incorporate the partial reflection and transmission of water waves in the hyperbolic mild-slope equation. For given reflection and transmission coefficients, wave fields around a porous breakwater including reflection, transmission, and diffraction can be simulated accurately. For the verification of the proposed method, numerical experiments have been carried out and compared with analytic solutions given by Yu(1995) and McIver(1999). The proposed method is easy to implement and is computationally efficient. It is demonstrated that the method performs well with a sloping bottom bathymetry and varying incident wave angles.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.421-428
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.156-164
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• 1999

Two analytical solutions for wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater, which Penney and Price (1952), and Stoker (1957) presented, are rederived. Since in previous works the derivations were skipped or briefly given, in the paper the derivation is brought into focus. Numerical computations of the solutions are presented and solution behavior of Stoker's method due to a number of terms in the series is analyzed.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.245-252
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• 2013

The reflection coefficients of monochromatic water waves over various shear currents flowing on a constant topography are estimated analytically in this study. The region of varying shear currents is represented by a finite number of tiny steps with a uniform depth topography. The proper numbers of steps and evanescent modes needed for the analysis are proposed by a series of convergence tests. The characteristics of reflection coefficients for various shear currents conditions are also examined.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.20-25
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• 2001

부유식 파랑에너지 변환시스템(Oscillating Water Column)에서 에너지 변환은 입력파와 챔버, 챔버내 공기의 상호작용으로 이루어진다. 이 논문은 파랑에너지를 기계적 운동으로 변환하는 기계적 특성을 해석한다. 단일 진동수 규칙파가 입력되었을 때에 파에 의하여 챔버의 상하운동이 선형적으로 발생하며, 이 상하운동은 챔버내의 압력 변화에 영향을 받는다. 상하운동과 챔버내로 투과한 파, 그리고 챔버내 압력에 의해 발생되는 파에 의해 챔버내의 상대운동을 정하고, 그 상대운동에 의한 공기의 압축 팽창과 온도상승을 근사적 열역학적 방정식으로 해석하여 오리피스를 통한 유량과 압력을 기준으로 에너지 변환요율을 결정하였다. 얻어진 식은 간단하면서도 관련요소의 영향을 전반적으로 표현한다. 개구율 변화에 따른 운동응답을 비교하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1996.10a
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• pp.156-161
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• 1996

컴퓨터의 공학적용과 더불어 천해파의 산정은 파향선식(Ray Equation)에 근간을 두어 격자상에서 이를 산정하는 방법이 이용되어 왔는데 수심이 복잡하여 파향선이 서로 교차되는 경우, 파의 중복에 따른 영향이 반영되지 못한다. Dobson이 제시한 모형이 이러한 파향선법중에서 가장 보편적으로 적용되어 왔다. 이러한 한계를 극복할 만한 접근이 꾸준히 전개되어, Berkhoff (1972)에 의해서 완경사 방정식이 유도되기에 이르렀고 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사등 파랑의 제 현상을 반영할수 있는 모델이 수립되기 시작하였다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.180-190
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• 2018

The preliminary study was carried out to utilize the rolling porous pendulum plate as a hybrid system combining blocking and extracting of wave energy. The Galerkin method suggested by Porter and Evans (1995) was used to solve the diffraction and radiation problems to obtain reflection and transmission coefficient, roll displacement, extracted power. The Galerkin method provides better convergence than the matched eigenfunction expansion method (MEEM), which improves the accuracy of the analytical solution even if the CPU time is shorter. The porous plate can not be said to be more effective than the impermeable plate in terms of wave energy extraction and wave blocking, but it has the advantage of reducing the wave load and exchanging seawater.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1992.08a
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• pp.83-83
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• 1992

풍파가 수심이 불규칙하고 조류 및 해류 등의 흐름이 존재하는 연안역을 전파해 갈 때 파고 및 파향이 굴절ㆍ회절 및 천수, 에너지 감쇠 효과 등에 의해 크게 변형된다. 이러한 현상은 연안역의 파랑변형 계산 및 퇴적물이동현상 분석에 매우 중요하다. 불규칙파의 스펙트럼 형태와 에너지의 방향 분산 정도에 따라 단순 규칙파 모델과의 계산치가 50-100%에 이르기도 한다.(중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.