• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.248-257
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• 2011

In the present study, we proposed a new numerical wave tank model to analyze the vertical tension-leg circular floating bodies, using a 2-D Navier-Stokes solver. An IBM(Immersed Boundary Method) capable of handling interactions between waves and moving structures with complex geometry on a standard regular Cartesian grid system is coupled to the VOF(Volume of Fluid) method for tracking the free surface. Present numerical results for the motions of the floating body were compared with existing experimental data as well as numerical results based on FAVOR(Fractional Area Volume Obstacle Representation) algorithm. For detailed examinations of the present model, the additional hydraulic experiments for floating motions and free surface transformations were conducted. Further, the versatility of the proposed numerical model was verified via the numerical and physical experiments for the general rectangular floating bodies. Numerical results were compared with experiments and good agreement was archived.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.367-373
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• 2021

In this study, deep learning model was set up to predict the wave heights inside a harbour. Various machine learning techniques were applied to the model in consideration of the transformation characteristics of offshore waves while propagating into the harbour. Pohang New Port was selected for model application, which had a serious problem of unloading due to swell and has lots of available wave data. Wave height, wave period, and wave direction at offshore sites and wave heights inside the harbour were used for the model input and output, respectively, and then the model was trained using deep learning method. By considering the correlation between the time series wave data of offshore and inside the harbour, the data set was separated into prevailing wave directions as a pre-processing method. As a result, It was confirmed that accuracy and stability of the model prediction are considerably increased.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.211-221
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• 2022

The wave runup height is one of the most important parameters for affecting the design of coastal structures such as dikes, revetments, and breakwaters. In this study, SWASH (Zijlema et al., 2011), a non-hydrostatic pressure numerical model, was used to analyze the effect of reducing The wave runup height of solitary waves by submerged and floating rectangular obstacles. It was confirmed that the SWASH model reproduces the propagation, breaking, and runup of solitary waves quite well. In addition, it was confirmed that the wave deformation of the solitary wave by submerged and floating rectangular obstacles was well reproduced. Finally, we conducted an examination of the effect of reducing the runup height of submerged and floating rectangular obstacles. Reduced runup heights are calculated and the characteristics of runup height reduction according to the dimensions of the obstacle were analyzed. The energy attenuation effect of the floating obstacle is greater than the submerged obstacle, and it is shown to be more effective in reducing the runup height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.482-488
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• 2011

Seadike is a coastal structure constructed in the rear region of the foreshore to maximize its usability by preventing direct effect of wave. The expected construction field is determined under the design wave and tidal condition where minor wave overtopping is anticipated. Thus, the location of seadike is generally fixed at the highest site of the surrounding area with seadike crest height controlling the permissible range of wave overtopping volume. But a lot of times, frontal sand beach of the seadike continuously deforms due to incident waves, resulting failure in maintaining its initial slope. The erosion and deposition of the seadike front cause changes in the crest height and volume of wave overtopping and decrease in the setting depth of the seadike, which endangers seadike region as a result. In this study, the relation of local scouring and setting depth of the seadike front in the run-up region is examined by using 2D hydraulic model tests and numerical simulations by modified SBEACH model. As a result, the study learned that if appropriate boundary condition is applied to the modified SBEACH model, it is possible to create practical estimations on the local scouring at the seadike foot when erosive waves flow into the region.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Economic and Environmental Geology
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.133-146
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• 2001

We report the results of structural field observation and measurement of anisotropy of magnetic susceptibility (AMS) of the diamictitic Hwanggangri Formation distributed in Chungju-Suanbo area of the Okchon Belt, Korea. The outcrops of the Hwanggangri Formation show two types of cleavage in general: slaty cleavage (SI) and crenulation cleavage (5z). 5] cleavage is, however, well observable only in the notheastem (NE) part of study area, while overwhelmed by 52 cleavage in the southwestern (5W) part, indicating stronger later deformation in 5W part of the study area. This partitioning of the study area is corroborated by both IRM and AMS parameters: NE part of the study area is characterized by higher IRM intensity, higher bulk magnetic susceptibility, higher AM5 degree, and by oblate shape of magnetic susceptibility ellipsoid. Their values become drastically lowered toward southwest, and reach to a stable minimum in the whole 5W part of the study area. In addition, degree of both metamorphism and deformation tends to increase gradually from northeast toward southwest and also from northwest toward southeast in the study area. Based on the distribution pattern of the principal axes ( $k_1, k_2, k_3$ axes) of magnetic anisotropy ellipsoids revealed in the NE part of the study area, three episodes of deformation ( $D_1, D_2, D_3$ ) are recognized: D_1$ deformation produced $S_2$ cleavage with NE-5W trend, which is caused by a strong NW-SE tlattening of a coaxial pure shear. $D_2$ deformation produced 5z cleavage characterized by a non-coaxial deformation. It was caused by a ductile or semi-ductile thrusting toward NW and concurrent sinistral shearing along $S_2$ cleavage plane. Lastly, $D_3$ deformation produced tlexural folding of all previous structures with a nearly horizontal NE fold axis. Distribution pattern of the principal axes of magnetic anisotropy ellipsoid from the SW part of the study area, on the other hand, does not show any coherency among sites or samples. We interpret that this dispersed pattern of $k_1, k_2, k_3$ axes together with lower anisotropy strength indicates that magnetic fabrics in the SW part have been disturbed either by a superposition of strong deformation/metamorphism or by a kind of reciprocal strain due to an overlapping of $D_1$ and $D_2$ or by both processes.

• Water for future
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.197-209
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• 1984

This study has been carried out to investigate into the local scour of wall-toe and the beach deformation caused by the construction of a seal wall. It has been performed to determine the values of the marine invertigation of HAE UN DAE and two dimensional Movable bed gydraulic model test. From the results of this work approtection method of HAE UN DAE beach erosion is established to reduce the amount of topography deformation by investigating the values of the constructive position of a sea wall, seabed slope, the maximum scour depth, the first and the second influence range, the maximum quantity of beach deformation, and the distance measured from the sea will to the maximum quantity of beach deformation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.49-64
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• 2014

Seabed beneath and near the coastal structures may undergo large excess pore water pressure composed of oscillatory and residual components in the case of long durations of high wave loading. This excess pore water pressure may reduce effective stress and, consequently, the seabed may liquefy. If the liquefaction occurs in the seabed, the structure may sink, overturn, and eventually fail. Especially, the seabed liquefaction behavior beneath a gravity-based structure under wave loading should be evaluated and considered for design purpose. In this study, to evaluate the liquefaction potential on the seabed, numerical analysis was conducted using 2-dimensional numerical wave tank. The 2-dimensional numerical wave tank was expanded to account for irregular wave fields, and to calculate the dynamic wave pressure and water particle velocity acting on the seabed and the surface boundary of the structure. The simulation results of the wave pressure and the shear stress induced by water particle velocity were used as inputs to a FLIP(Finite element analysis LIquefaction Program). Then, the FLIP evaluated the time and spatial variations in excess pore water pressure, effective stress and liquefaction potential in the seabed. Additionally, the deformation of the seabed and the displacement of the structure as a function of time were quantitatively evaluated. From the analysis, when the shear stress was considered, the liquefaction at the seabed in front of the structure was identified. Since the liquefied seabed particles have no resistance force, scour can possibly occur on the seabed. Therefore, the strength decrease of the seabed at the front of the structure due to high wave loading for the longer period of time such as a storm can increase the structural motion and consequently influence the stability of the structure.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.332-349
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• 2016

OLAFOAM is the powerful CFD code and is an expanded version of $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$, for wave mechanics simulation. The $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ does provide many solvers to correspond to each object of the numerical calculation in a variety of fields. OLAFOAM's governing equation bases on VARANS (Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes) equation, and the finite volume method is applied to numerical techniques. The program is coded in C++ and run on the Linux operating system. First of all, in this study, OLAFOAM was validated for 1) wave transformation inside porous structure under bore and regular wave conditions, 2) wave transformation by submerged breakwater under regular wave condition, and 3) regular wave transformation and resultant vertical velocity distribution under current by comparison with existing laboratory measurements. Hereafter, this study, which is almost no examination carried out until now, analyzed closely variation characteristics of water surface level, wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater in the wave and current coexisting field for the case of permeable or impermeable rear beach. It was revealed that the wave height fluctuation according to current direction(following or opposing) was closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy, and others.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.128-137
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• 2013

Due to the global warming and air pollution, interest in renewable energies has increased in recent years. In particular, the crisis of the depletion of fossil energy resources in the near future has accelerated the renewable energy technologies. Among the renewable energy resources, oceans covering almost three-fourths of earth's surface have an enormous amount of energy. For this reason, various approaches have been made to harness the tremendous energy potential. In order to achieve two purposes: to improve harbor water quality and to use wave energy, this study proposed a sea water exchange structure applying an Oscillating Water Column (OWC) wave generation system that utilizes the air flow velocity induced by the vertical motion of water column in the air chamber as a driving force of turbine. In particular, the airflow velocity in the air chamber was estimated from the time variations of water surface profile computed by using 3D-NIT model based on the 3-dimensional irregular numerical wave tank. The relationship of the frequency spectrums between the computed airflow velocities and the incident waves was analyzed. This study also discussed the characteristics of frequency spectrums in the air chamber according to the presence of the structure, wave deformations by the structure, and the power of the water and air flows were also investigated. It is found that the phase difference exists in the time series data of water level fluctuations and air flow in the air chamber and the air flow power is superior to the fluid flow power.