• Title/Summary/Keyword: 파랑변형

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Wave Transformation of Submerged Breakwater with One Ray (단일 잠제에 의한 파랑변형에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, W.K.;Kang, I.S.;Kwak, K.S.;Kim, D.S.
    • Journal of Korean Port Research
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.23-30
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    • 1994
  • This study discusses the wave transformation(wave reflection and transmission) by a impermeable submerged breakwater with one ray, and integrated horizontal wave pressure acting on the structure. Numerical method in this study is based on the simplified eigenfunction expansion method and linear wave theory. Although this method is very simple, the results give good agreement with the one of the strict eigenfunciton expansion method, especially, in case that the crown width of the submerged breakwater becomes longer and its crown water depth shallower. Therefore, it is concluded that this simplified method is one good method in planning coastal structures as like the submerged breakwater in this study, and computing their wave transformations.

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Analytic Solution to Mild Slope Equation for Transformation of Waves Propagating over an Axi-symmetric Pit (축대칭 함몰지형 위를 진행하는 파의 변형에 관한 완경사 방정식의 해석 해)

  • Jung, Tae-Hwa;Suh, Kyung-Duck
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.308-320
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    • 2006
  • An analytic solution to the mild-slope equation is derived for waves propagating over an axi-symmetric pit. The water depth inside the pit varies in proportion to a power of radial distance from the pit center. The governing equation is transformed into ordinary differential equations by using separation of variables, and the coefficients of the equations are transformed into explicit forms by using Hunt's (1979) approximate solution. Finally, by using the Frobenius series, the analytic solution is derived. Due to the feature of Hunt's equation, the present analytic solution is accurate in shallow and deep waters, while it is less accurate in intermediate depth water. The validity of the analytic solution is demonstrated by comparison with numerical solutions. The analytic solution is also used to examine the effects of pit geometry and relative depth on wave transformation.

A Study for Analysis on Deformation of Rubble Mound Structure Using VOF and DEM Methods (VOF법과 DEM에 의한 사석구조물 변형예측모델과 그 적용성에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Mi-Kum;Kim, Chang-Je
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.34 no.6
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    • pp.435-440
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    • 2010
  • A numerical model, which can compute deformation of rubble mound structures composed with various size materials, was proposed. In the numerical model, wave field into the mound structures was computed by CADMAS-SURF and the deformations of mound structures were computed by DEM. Interaction between wave field and sectional deformation of structure was considered and to present the variation of behaviors caused by various properties of materials, computation was carried out with random coefficients by Monte Carlo simulation method for contact stiffness and friction angle. The experiments were carried out with rubbles and glass balls with radius of 2.9cm, 2.6cm and 1.5cm. And the deformation characteristics of rubble mounds composed with various size materials were clarified. Furthermore the validity and the applicability of the model were discussed by comparing with the experimental results.

Geological Structures of the Taean Formation in the Gomseom Area, Southwestern Gyeonggi Massif (경기육괴 남서부 곰섬 일대 태안층의 지질구조)

  • Kim, Inho;Kim, Ae-Ji;Woo, Hayoung;Park, Seung-Ik
    • Economic and Environmental Geology
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    • v.52 no.2
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    • pp.159-168
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    • 2019
  • The western Gyeonggi Massif, where records evidence of Phanerozoic subduction/collision tectonics, is an important area to understand the crustal evolutionary history of the Korean Peninsula. This study presents geometric and kinematic characteristics of the geological structures of the Taean Formation in the Gomseom area, southwestern Gyeonggi Massif. We interpreted the geometric relationships between structural elements, and conducted stereographic and down-plunge projections for structural domains. As a result, at least three different deformational events ($D_1$, $D_2$ and $D_3$) are recognized in the study area. In the first deformational event ($D_1$), regional foliations being well defined by the preferred orientation of muscovite and biotite were formed. In the second deformational event ($D_2$), NNE-trending low-angle contractional faults and related crenulation lineations/cleavages were formed. The crenulation lineations shallowly plunge toward SSW~SSE or NNW~NNE. In the third deformational event ($D_3$), SE-plunging folds and NE-trending high-angle faults were formed as 'fault-related fold' and 'fold-accommodation fault', indicating that the $D_3$ folds and faults are genetically linked to each other. This contribution provides important insights into the structural evolution of the Taean Formation along western Gyeonggi Massif, where had evolved as subduction/collisional orogenic belts in the East Asia.

Shoaling Prediction by the Statistical Joint Distribution in the Shallow Water Region (천해역에 있어서의 결합확률분포의 천수변형에 대한 연구)

  • 권정곤
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.14-20
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    • 1991
  • Accurate estimation of irregular wave transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region is very important for the design of coastal structures and establishing beach erosion control. In this study. the transformation of directional spectrum is tested numerically using a conservation equation for energy flux and. based upon the joint distribution of wave height. period and wave direction. shoaling effects are predicted in the shallow water region. The applicability of the proposed procedure is verified through comparison with field observation data.

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A Linear Wave Equation Over Mild-Sloped Bed from Double Integration (이중적분을 이용한 완경사면에서의 선형파 방정식)

  • Kim, Hyo-Seob;Jung, Byung-Soon;Lee, Ye-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.165-172
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    • 2009
  • A set of equations for description of transformation of harmonic waves is proposed here. Velocity potential function and separation of variables are introduced for the derivation. The continuity equation is in a vertical plane is integrated through the water so that a horizontal one-dimensional wave equation is produced. The new equation composed of the complex velocity potential function, further be modified into. A set up of equations composed of the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient. The horizontally one-dimensional equations on the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient are the first and second-order ordinary differential equations. They are solved in a one-way marching manner starting from a side where boundary values are supplied, i.e. the wave amplitude, the wave amplitude gradient, and the wave phase gradient. Simple spatially-centered finite difference schemes are adopted for the present set of equations. The equations set is applied to three test cases, Booij's inclined plane slope profile, Massel's smooth bed profile, and Bragg's wavy bed profile. The present equations set is satisfactorily verified against existing theories including Massel's modified mild-slope equation, Berkhoff's mild-slope equation, and the full linear equation.

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Effects of Wave-Current Interactions on 3-D Flow Fields in a River Mouth (하구에서 파랑-흐름 상호작용이 3차원 흐름특성에 미치는 영향)

  • Lee, Woo-Dong;Jeon, Ho-Seong;Park, Jong-Ryul;Hur, Dong-So
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.31 no.1
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    • pp.36-46
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    • 2017
  • Most of the studies on the hydraulic characteristics of wave-current interaction have used 2-D hydraulic experiments or 2-D numerical simulations. However, it is difficult to understand the wave-current interaction found in actual estuaries using these. Therefore, a numerical water tank was constructed in this study to perform simulations involving a 3-D river mouth. The result showed a change in the water surface at the river mouth from the wave-current interaction. With an increase in the ratio ($V_c/C_i$) between the river current and wave celerity, the wave height and mean water level of the river increased at the wave and current meeting point. A higher $V_c/C_i$ caused a stronger wave-current interaction and increased the turbulence kinetic energy. Thus, the wave height attenuation became larger by the wave-current interaction with a higher $V_c/C_i$. In addition, it was possible to understand the flow characteristics in the vicinity of the river mouth as a result of the wave-current interaction using the mean flow and mean time-averaged velocity at the mid-cross section of river.

Characteristics of Seasonal Wave, Wave-Induced Current and Sediment Transport in Haeundae Beach (해운대 해수욕장의 계절별 파랑, 해빈류 및 퇴적물이동 특성)

  • Lee, Jong-Sup;Tac, Dae-Ho;Woo, Jin-Gap
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.574-585
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    • 2007
  • To analyze the incident wave characteristics around Haeundae beach the long-term deep water wave data computed by wave hindcast method were used and a continuous wave observation was carried out for 1 year at the 20 m of water depth in front of Haeundae beach. Wave observation data showd that the prevalent wave direction was SSW-S in spring and summer seasons while E-SE in autumn and winter. A numerical modeling shows that the waves from E-SE are refracted strongly due to the shoal developed at the south-east side of Haeundae beach. The simulation also shows inflowing nearshore current along the east coast of the beach develops strongly in autumn and winter. Radioactive isotope tracer experiment for 155 days indicated that the tracers moves to the on-shore direction in the 1st and 2nd tracking then dispersed to the E-W direction along the shore.

An Experimental Study on the Behavior of Capping Material by Sea Waves (파랑에 의한 피복재의 거동에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Kong, Jinyoung;Kim, Youngtak;Kang, Jaemo;Lee, Jangguen
    • Journal of the Korean GEO-environmental Society
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    • v.15 no.7
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    • pp.51-58
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    • 2014
  • In-situ capping is a method to stabilize contaminated sediments by isolation. Few researches on the in-situ capping have been performed, although the engineering approach is still required to prevent the release of contaminants. In this study, hydraulic model test were conducted by using a wave generator to observe the change of cap thickness which is important factor in design of capping. Sands with particle size between 0.075 to 2 mm as capping materials were used to observe the change of capping thickness by waves. The experimental results show that the surface of capping materials is similar to wave form. The more wave height increases, the more erosion of capping materials increases.

Study on the Reduction of Wave Exciting Forces Acting on a Pontoon Type Floating Structure by Submerged Plate (몰수평판에 의한 폰툰형 부유체에 작용하는 파랑강제력의 감소현상에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Sang-Min;Lee, Won-Woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.213-217
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    • 2007
  • Pontoon type very large floating structure has been considered and actively studied as one of the most important ocean space utilization. The hydroelastic displacement of the pontoon type floating structure in waves is the largest at its weather side. The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics and effects of the submerged horizontal plate which is developed to reduce the wave exciting forces acting on the pontoon type floating structure using numerical analysis. The numerical method based on the finite difference method has been adopted and compared with the experimental data to confirm the reliability of it. We have performed the numerical computation of wave exciting forces acting on the pontoon type floating structure with/without submerged plate and discuss the results of simulation.

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