• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.129-138
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• 2017

The coastal wave environment is a very important factor that directly affects the change of coastal topography, the habitat of marine life, and the design of offshore structures. In recent years, changes in the wave environment due to climate change are expected, and a trend analysis of the wave environment using available data sets is required. In this paper, significant wave heights which are measured at six ocean buoys (Deokjeokdo, Oeyeondo, Chibaldo, Marado, Pohang, Ullengdo) have been used to analyze long-term trend of normal waves. In advance, the outlier of measured data by Korea Meteorological Administration have been removed using Rosner test. And Pearson correlation analysis between the measured data and ECMWF reanalysis data has been conducted. As a results, correlation coefficient between two data were 0.849~0.938. Meanwhile, Mann-Kendall test has been used to analyze the long-term trend of normal waves. As a results, it was found that there were no trend at Deokjeokdo, Oeyeondo and Chibaldo. However, Marado, Pohang and Ullengdo showed an increasing tendency.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.166-174
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• 2009

Gijang Sea is located on the southeastern coast of Korea. This study establishes a basic system to identify optimal sites for the wave power generation. To achieve this goal, the field measurements were made at the field site in front of Dong-am fishing port at Gijang. In addition, we analyzed the offshore wave data at the Donghae buoy operated by Korea Meteorological Administration(KMA) and compared the data with the wave characteristics in Gijang Sea. The main results were as follows. In winter, the wave direction in Gijang Sea ranged between east and south($90{\sim}180^{\circ}$). The main wave direction was east($90^{\circ}$). The Significant wave heights and periods were under 2 m and $5{\sim}15$ sec, respectively. A comparison of water depth and wave direction constitutes one(condition) of the important parameters for selecting the optimal site for the wave power generation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.252-261
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Kong-Rey incident on the south coast of Korea in 2018 are conducted using the JMA-MSM weather field provided by the Japan Meteorological Agency, and the calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the south-east coast. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys operated by the KHOA (Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency) and the KMA (Korea Meteorological Administration), and the data observed at AWAC stations of the KIOST (Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology). Additional simulations are also performed based on the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by the JTWC (Joint Typhoon Warning Center) of the United States, and the results are compared and analyzed. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.177-185
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• 2012

Wave field measurements were made over a period of 18 days to study the spatial distribution of incident wave on seaweed tarm field around Gumil-up Sea, Wando, Korea. These measured data were compared with data from the Geomun-do ocean weather/wave observation buoy. A numerical simulation model that combined the offshore design wave with the seasonal normal incoming wave was used to study the incident wave distribution surrounding a seaweed farm. The results are summarized as follows. (1) On-site wave measurements showed that the major relationship between maximum and significant wave height was $H_{max}=1.6H_{1/3}$. (2) Offshore incident wave energy reaching the coast was greatly influenced by the wind direction. A north wind reduced the incident wave energy and a south wind increased it. (3) The calculated maximum wave height under the design wave boundany conditions was in the range of 4~5 m and the reduction in the incident wave height ratio ranged from approximately 38.1% to 47.6% at Gumil-up Sea. Under normal wave conditions, the maximum wave heights were 3.6~4.0 m in summer and 2.3~2.7 m in winter while the reduction in the incident wave height ratio was about 41.8% to 49.1%. (4) The sea state in the southern area of Gumil-up was the most affected by ocean waves, whereas the sea state in the northern area was very stable. The significant wave ratio in the south was about six times that in the north.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.4B
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• pp.243-251
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• 2012

To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.135-145
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• 2020

Wave observation is widely used to direct observation method for observing the water surface elevation using wave buoy or pressure gauge and remote-sensing wave observation method. The wave buoy and pressure gauge can produce high-quality wave data but have disadvantages of the high risk of damage and loss of the instrument, and high maintenance cost in the offshore area. On the other hand, remote observation method such as radar is easy to maintain by installing the equipment on the land, but the accuracy is somewhat lower than the direct observation method. This study investigates the data quality of MIROS Wave and Current Radar (MWR) installed at Dokdo and improve the data quality of remote wave observation data using the wave buoy (CWB) observation data operated by the Korea Meteorological Administration. We applied and developed the three types of wave data quality control; 1) the combined use (Optimal Filter) of the filter designed by MIROS (Reduce Noise Frequency, Phillips Check, Energy Level Check), 2) Spike Test Algorithm (Spike Test) developed by OOI (Ocean Observatories Initiative) and 3) a new filter (H-Ts QC) using the significant wave height-period relationship. As a result, the wave observation data of MWR using three quality control have some reliability about the significant wave height. On the other hand, there are still some errors in the significant wave period, so improvements are required. Also, since the wave observation data of MWR is different somewhat from the CWB data in high waves of over 3 m, further research such as collection and analysis of long-term remote wave observation data and filter development is necessary.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.171-177
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• 2004

A new wave gauge using digital image of waves is developed and the performances are tested by wave tank experiments. This wave gauge uses frame frequency of 1/15 sec, conversion of analog images to digital images, and large capacity of hard disk. This wave gauge measures wave heights by detecting the buoy movement automatically from the image, where the buoy moves with the same phase of water surface. The comparison of automatic measurements of wave heights to the true data is reasonable. The wave gauge can be improved to measure wave heights on shallow waters near shorelines.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.465-480
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and the wave induced by the Typhoon Sanba incident on the south coast of Korea in 2012 are conducted using the JMA-MSM forecast weather field, NCEP-CFSR reanalysis weather field, ECMWF-ERA5 reanalysis weather field, and the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by JTWC. The calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbors along the coasts of Korea. For the waves the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys and the underwater pressure type wave gauge. As a result the JMA-MSM and the NCEP-CFSR weather fields give the highest reliability. The ECMWF-ERA5 gives in general surge and wave heights weaker than the measured. The ECMWF-ERA5, however, reproduces the best convergence belt formed in front of the typhoon. The weather field obtained using JTWC best track information gives the worst agreement.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.251-261
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• 2007

The wind-wave interaction around the Kyung-gi Bay, Korea, was studied using the observed data from ocean buoy at DeuckJeuck-Do from Jan. to Dec., 2005, and from waverider data at KeuckYeulBee-Do on Mar. 19-26 and May 23-28, 2005. Wind-driven surface waves and wave-driven wind speed decrease were estimated from the ocean buoy data, and the characteristics of wave spectrum response were also investigated from the waverider data for the wave developing and calm stages of sea surface, including the time series of spectrum pattern change, frequency trend of the maximum energy level and spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range. The wind speed difference between before and after considering the wave effect was about $2ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.1Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $5-10ms^{-1}$ and about $3ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.4Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $10-15ms^{-1}$. Correlation coefficient between wind and wave height was increased from 0.71 to 0.75 after the wave effect considered on the observed wind speed. When surface waves were generated by wind, the initial waves were short waves about 4-5 sec in period and become in gradual longer period waves about 9-10 sec. For the developed wave, the frequency of maximum energy was showed a constant value taking 6-7 hours to reach at the state. The spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range varied with an amplitude in the initial stage of wave developing, however it finally became a constant value 4.11. Linear correlation between the frictional velocity and wave spectrum for each frequency showed a trend of higher correlation coefficient at the frequency of the maximum energy level. In average, the correlation coefficients were 0.80 and 0.82 for the frequencies 0.30 Hz and 0.35 Hz, respectively.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.84-94
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• 2018

In order to overcome the limitation of deterministic forecast, an ensemble forecasting system for regional ocean wave is developed. This system predicts ocean wind waves based on the meteorological forcing from the Ensemble Prediction System for Global of the Korea Meteorological Administration, which is consisted of 24 ensemble members. The ensemble wave forecasting system is evaluated by using the moored buoy data around Korea. The root mean squared error (RMSE) of ensemble mean showed the better performance than the deterministic forecast system after 2 days, especially RMSE of ensemble mean is improved by 15% compared with the deterministic forecast for 3-day lead time. It means that the ensemble method could reduce the uncertainty of the deterministic prediction system. The Relative Operating Characteristic as an evaluation scheme of probability prediction was bigger than 0.9 showing high predictability, meaning that the ensemble wave forecast could be usefully applied.