• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.31 no.6
• /
• pp.409-422
• /
• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.439-455
• /
• 2012

Coupled wave induced current modeling system(WIC) was developed from combining with the nearshore spectral wave model, SWAN, the wave induced force model, WIF, and the flow model, EFDC. The reasonable results were obtained from WIC modeling system. The ratio of the wave height calculated with respect to refraction and diffraction effects over submerged spherical shoal was occurred approximately 1~5 % errors compared to Goda(2000)'s result. The radiation stress suggested by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart(1960), the stresses due to rollers in breaking waves proposed by Dally and Osiecki(1994), and Kim(2004)'s new spreading approach instead of the previous lateral mixing approach were added to calculate wave induced force. The results of the WIC modeling system show good agreement with Nishimura et al.(1985)'s laboratory measurements and better than Kim(2004)'s 2 dimensional depth averaged numerical computations for a plane beach with detached breakwater. The present flow field computed agrees reasonably well with the measured flow field. The relative merit of WIF model in WIC modeling system is unconditional stable for time increment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.28 no.6
• /
• pp.375-382
• /
• 2016

In the present study, the wave hindcasting has been performed, and then the characteristics of storm waves at Gangnueng port was investigated, in which the high waves are observed. Comparing the numerical results with the wave measurements at Gangneung port, Niigata, and Hamada, there were good agreements between them. In particular, the Pearson correlation coefficients of significant wave heights and peak periods at Gangneung port were 0.92 and 0.72, respectively. Then the extreme wave analysis on the significant wave heights was carried out for the estimation of the frequency of storm waves. In this analysis, the storm waves over the threshold were fitted to GPD(Generalized Pareto Distribution). According to this analysis, the return period of the storm wave on February, 24, 2008, one of the large storm waves at Gangneung port, was 8.2 months. Among the computed significant wave heights larger than one-year wave, 58.3% of them were resulted from the storm, while the others were from the typhoon. Additionally, the regression analysis on the waves larger than one-month wave has been conducted, and then the relationship between the computed significant wave heights and the significant wave period, $T_{1/3}=7H_s^{0.25}$ was obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.226-235
• /
• 2011

Field measurements of the winds and waves were carried out for one year at multiple locations inside and outside of the Pohang New Harbor in order to clarify the reason of downtimes frequently occurring at most of the harbor quays and to establish an efficient countermeasure. In addition, the downtime records of the quays and precipitation data provided by Korea Meteorological Agency were acquired for mutual comparison and comprehensive analysis of the cause of downtimes. Except the influence of precipitation, it was found that the downtimes occurred when the height of waves entering into the harbor incurred by either one of swell, wind seas, or mixture of both, exceeded a threshold. The seiche whose period ranges from 5 to 80 minutes, which was suspected as a possible cause of the downtimes, is shown to have no direct relation with the downtimes. Meanwhile, the height of far-infra-gravity waves whose period ranges between 0.5 and 3 minutes, propagating to the harbor mouth forced by short period waves, showed almost proportional relationship with the height of short period waves. Based on the result of this study, it is concluded that the downtime problems of Pohang New Harbor can be greatly improved by effectively preventing the entrance of short period waves such as swell or wind seas.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.142-149
• /
• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.32 no.6
• /
• pp.446-457
• /
• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.46 no.6
• /
• pp.517-524
• /
• 2022

This paper analyzes wave measurement using X-band navigation (ship) radar, changes in radar signal due to snowfall and precipitation, and factors that obstruct wave measurement. Data obtained from the radar installed at Sokcho Beach were used, and data from the Korea Meteorological Administration and the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency were used for the meteorological data needed for comparative verification. Data from the Korea Meteorological Administration are measured at Sokcho Meteorological Observatory, which is about 7km away from the radar, and data from the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency are measured at a buoy about 3km away from the radar. To this point, changes in radar signals due to rainfall or snowfall have been transmitted empirically, and there is no case of an analysis comparing the results to actual weather data. Therefore, in this paper, precipitation, snowfall data, CCTV, and radar signals from the Korea Meteorological Administration were comprehensively analyzed in time series. As a result, it was confirmed that the wave height measured by the radar according to snowfall and rainfall was reduced compared to the actual wave height, and a decrease in the radar signal strength according to the distance was also confirmed. This paper is meaningful in that it comprehensively analyzes the decrease in the signal strength of radar according to snowfall and rainfall.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
• /
• v.44 no.1
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2023

Oceanic wind waves have been recognized as one of the important indicators of global warming and climate change. It is necessary to study the spatial and temporal variability of significant wave height (SWH) and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and a part of the East China Sea, which is directly affected by the East Asian monsoon and climate change. In this study, the spatial and temporal variability including seasonal and interannual variability of SWH and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were analyzed using European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis 5 (ERA5) data. Prior to analyzing the variability of SWH and wave direction using the model reanalysis, the accuracy was verified through comparison with SWH and wave direction measurements from Ieodo Ocean Science Station (I-ORS). The mean SWH ranged from 0.3 to 1.6 m, and was higher in the south than in the north and higher in the center of the Yellow Sea than in the coast. The standard deviation of the SWH also showed a pattern similar to the mean. In the Yellow Sea, SWH and wave direction showed clear seasonal variability. SWH was generally highest in winter and lowest in late spring or early summer. Due to the influence of the monsoon, the wave direction propagated mainly to the south in winter and to the north in summer. The seasonal variability of SWH showed predominant interannual variability with strong variability of annual amplitudes due to the influence of typhoons in summer.

• Journal of Korean Society of Disaster and Security
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.19-31
• /
• 2023

According to the climate change scenarios, the intensity of typhoons, a major factor in Korea's natural disaster, is expected to increase. The increase in typhoon intensity leads to a rise in wave heights, which is likely to cause large-scale disasters in coastal regions with high populations and building density for dwelling, industry, and tourism. This study, therefore, analyzed observation data of the Donghae ocean data buoy and conducted a numerical model simulation for wave estimations for the typhoon MAYSAK (202009) period, which showed the maximum significant wave height. The boundary conditions for wave simulations were a JMA-MSM wind field and a wind field applying the typhoon central pressure reduction rate in the SSP5-8.5 climate change scenario. As a result of the wave simulations, the wave height in front of the breakwater at Sokcho port was increased by 15.27% from 4.06 m to 4.68 m in the SSP5-8.5 scenario. Furthermore, the return period at the location of 147-2 grid point of deep-sea design wave was calculated to increase at least twice, it is necessary to improve the deep-sea design wave of return period of 50-year, which is prescriptively applied when designing coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.480-494
• /
• 2009

Long term extreme wave data are essential for planning and designing coastal structures. Since the availability of the field data for the waters around Korean peninsula is limited to provide a reliable wave statistics, the wave climate information has been generated by means of long-term wave hindcasting using available meteorological data. KORDI(2005) has proposed extreme wave data at 106 stations off the Korean coast from 1979 to 2003. In this paper, extreme data sets of wave(KORDI, 2005) have been analyzed for best-fitting distribution functions, for which the spread parameter proposed by Goda(2004) is evaluated. The calculated values of the spread parameter are in good agreement with the values based on method of moment for parameter estimation. However, the spread parameter of extreme wave data has a representative value ranging from about 1.0 to 2.8 which is larger than some foreign coastal waters, it is necessary to review deep water design wave.