• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.3 no.3
• /
• pp.163-169
• /
• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
• /
• 2004.11a
• /
• pp.149-153
• /
• 2004

본 연구에서는 태풍의 천애역 내습시 태풍의 풍역이동과 위험반경내의 풍향 풍속 변화를 해안지형의 특성에 따라 파랑이 충분히 발달할 수 있는 해역을 대상으로 발생가능한 풍향별 취송거리 및 관측된 풍향 풍속으로 천해설계파를 산정하기 위한 한가지 수치해석기법을 소개한다. 이를 통해 구조물 전면에서의 파고계산을 위해서는 구역을 결정할 때 해역의 개방 정도 및 폐쇄성과 태풍중심 이동경로가 천해설계파 산정시 중요함을 강조 할 수 있다. 실시간 해석기법에 대해서 부가적인 재해석 절차가 필요한 상황이지만 본 연구의 해석기법은 연안 해안지역의 천해설계파를 추정함에 있어 태풍의 천해역 통과시 풍역의 변화특성과 이를 고려한 파랑의 불획 정성을 극복하고 보완 할 수 있는 천해설계파 산정을 위한 기초적 연구로서 활용될 수 있을 것이라 판단된다.

• Journal of the Earthquake Engineering Society of Korea
• /
• v.10 no.3 s.49
• /
• pp.35-45
• /
• 2006

The simulation of tsunami using detailed bathymetry and topography is required to establish the countermeasure of disaster mitigation and the tsunami hazard map. In this study, a simulation of the 1993 tsunami event in the East Sea using parallel finite element model, which is possible to simulate with suitable accuracy by the Beowulf parallel computation method, is performed to produce detailed features of coastal inundation. Results of simulation are compared with measured data. The evolution of statistic distribution of tsunami heights is studied numerically and the distribution functions of tsunami heights show a tendency to the log-normal curve along coastal area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.150-156
• /
• 1994

Shoreline change due to the littoral drift in Suyeong bay, especially the Gwanganri and Haeundae beaches, was investigated. Average monthly frequency. speed. and direction of winds blowing from between east and south for the last 15 years were analysed, and offshore significant waves were hindcasted using the JONSWAP model. Wave refractions, shoaling, and breaking weir also investigated for the calculation of littoral drift. At the Gwanganri beach major longshore transport of sands occurs from the southwest to the northeast and the shoreline seems to advance in the northeast while it recedes in the southwest. At the Haeundae beach the sands mainly move from the east to the west and the shoreline retreats in the east and advances in the west.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2019.05a
• /
• pp.236-236
• /
• 2019

전 세계 인구의 90% 이상은 북반구 지역에 거주하고 있으며, 약 67%는 해안 지역에 거주하고 있다. 최근 기후변화로 인해 해수면 높이가 상승하고 있으며, 태풍, 폭풍해일 등의 자연재해로 인해 해안 지역의 인명과 재산 피해가 점점 증가하고 있는 추세이다. 특히 조석의 영향에 따라 수위 및 유량이 변동하는 특성을 가지고 있는 감조하천의 경우, 만조시에 하천의 유량이 배수되지 않아 홍수피해가 가중되기도 한다. 본 연구에서는 조위의 영향을 받는 감조하천의 수위-유량 관계곡선식을 개발하였다. 이를 위해 울산 수위시계열을 wavelet 분석, curve fitting, high pass filter 방법을 이용하여 4가지의 성분(조석 성분, 파고성분, 강우-유출 성분, 잡음 성분)으로 분리하고, 분포형 모형인 GRM 모형을 통해 유출량을 산정하였다. 모의 유출량과 강우-유출 성분을 이용하여 수위-유량 관계곡선식을 개발하고, 모의 유출량에 따른 수위를 추정하였다. 나머지 3가지 성분과 합하여 통합 수위를 산정하고 관측 유량과 비교한 결과 오차가 약 10%이내로 감조 하천의 수위를 정확하게 예측할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 감조하천에서 수위-유량 관계곡선식을 개발할 수 있었으며, 본 연구 결과를 활용하여 유량에 따른 수위를 예측하고 추가적인 다른 성분의 영향을 고려한다면 홍수기에 감조하천의 수위를 원활하게 관리할 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2020.06a
• /
• pp.100-100
• /
• 2020

감조하천은 일반하천과 달리 다양한 수문 요소에 영향을 받아 비선형적인 수문 특성을 보이고 있기 때문에 수위-유량 관계곡선식이 개발되어 있지 않다. 본 연구에서는 조위의 영향을 받는 감조하천에서 강우의 영향으로 인한 수위-유량 관계곡선식의 작성 방법론을 제안하고자 하였다. 이를 위해 울산 수위시계열을 wavelet 분석, curve fitting, high pass filter 방법을 이용하여 4가지의 성분(조석 성분, 파고 성분, 강우-유출 성분, 잡음 성분)으로 분리하고, 분포형 모형인 GRM 모형을 통해 유출량을 산정하였다. 모의 유출량과 강우-유출 성분을 이용하여 수위-유량 관계곡선식을 개발하고, 모의 유출량에 따른 수위를 추정하였다. 나머지 3가지 성분과 합하여 통합 수위를 산정하고 관측 유량과 비교한 결과 오차가 약 10% 이내로 본 방법론이 적용성이 있음을 확인하였다. 본 연구결과를 활용한다면 홍수기에 감조하천에서 수위를 정확히 예측하는데 기여할 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.30 no.5
• /
• pp.223-233
• /
• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.202-216
• /
• 2015

In the narrow water channel, which has been frequently deployed in the artificial canal in the South Korea due to the lack of available land, solitary wave type ship induced waves can occur. In order to test this hypothetical view, we carried out the numerical simulation. Numerical model consists of Navier-Stokes Equations and VOF, and the verification is implemented using the data by PIANC (1987) and the analytical model derived in this study. It was shown that numerically simulated front wave height are much larger than the one by PIANC (1987), and the fluctuation of free surface near the channel bank persists much longer (around 20s). For the case of stern waves, numerically simulated wave height are somewhat smaller than the data by PIANC (1987). These results seriously deviates from the general characteristics of ship induced waves observed in the wide water channels, and leads us to conclude that ship induced waves is severely affected by the width of water channel. It was also shown that the currents from the channel banks toward a ship, and currents from the ship toward the channel banks are alternatively occurring due to reflection at the channel banks. The velocity of currents reaches its maximum at 0.90 m/s, and these values are sustained through the entire depth. which implies that severe scourings at the channel bottom can be underway.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.46-52
• /
• 2005

A marine environmental information system (MEIS) useful for optimal route planning of ships running in the ocean was developed. Utilizing the simulated marine environmental data produced by the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts based on global environmental data observed by satellites, the real-time forecast and long-term statistics of marine environments around planned and probable ship routes are provided. The MEIS consists of a land-based data acquisition and analysis system(MEIS-Center) and a onboard information display system(MEIS-Ship) for graphic description of marine information and optimal route planning of ships. Also, it uses of satellite communication system for data transfer. The marine environmental components of winds, waves, air pressures and storms are provided, in which winds are described by speed and direction and waves are expressed in terms of height, direction and period for both of wind waves and swells. The real-time information is characterized by 0.5° resolution, 10 day forecast in 6 hour interval and daily update. The statistic information of monthly average and maximum value expected for a return period is featured by 1.5° resolution and based on 15 year database. The MEIS-Ship include an editing tool for route simulation and the forecasting and statistic information on planned routes can be displayed in graph or table. The MEIS enables for navigators to design an optimal navigational route that minimizes probable risk and operational cost.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
• /
• v.37 no.2
• /
• pp.89-106
• /
• 2016

The Gochang open-coast intertidal flat is located in the southwestern coast of Korea (the eastern part of the Yellow Sea), characterized by macro-tidal range, an open-coast type, and sand substrates. This study has investigated seasonal variation in sedimentary facies of surface sediments in the Gochang intertidal flat. In the four seasons of February, May, August, and November, 2014, surface sediments of 252 sites in total were sampled and analyzed along three survey lines. The surface sediments of the Gochang intertidal flat in 2014 consisted mainly of fine-grained sand sediments showing a trend in grain size to be coarser in winter and finer in summer. Based on seasonal wave and tidal level data recorded near the study area, it was interpreted that the seasonal effects of wave were stronger than those of tide as a factor controlling surface sedimentation. High waves in winter resulted in the coarsening trend of grain size in surface sediments, whereas, during summer time, the sediments became finer by relatively low waves. Spatial sedimentary facies of the Gochang intertidal flat in 2014 represented that seasonal deviation of the upper tidal zone was larger than that of the lower tidal zone, hence sediments getting coarser in grain size and poorly sorted in the upper tidal zone. From upper to lower tidal zone, the grain size became finer and sediments were better-sorted, showing smaller seasonal deviations.