• Title/Summary/Keyword: 파고라

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Analysis on Mechanism of Wave Attenuation under Wave-Current Interaction (파랑-흐름의 상호작용에 의한 파랑변형 메커니즘 분석)

  • Lee, Woo-Dong;Hur, Dong-Soo
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.36 no.4
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    • pp.645-650
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    • 2016
  • In this study, we conducted a numerical simulation using Navier-Stokes Solver (HYMO-WASS-3D) in order to analyze wave attenuation under wave-current interaction found in existing hydraulic experiments. It showed that wave energy and wave height are reduced as the wave propagates in coexisting fields between waves and currents. And the wave attenuation became more serious as the velocity of current and thus turbulence intensity were increased at wave-current coexisting field. As well, the wave attenuation became more serious with lower wave height and shorter period when the wave propagates the same distance under interactions between waves and currents.

Analysis of the Wave Induced Downtimes in Pohang New Harbor (포항신항내 파랑에 의한 Downtime 분석)

  • 정원무;오세범;채장원;김상익
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.24-34
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    • 1997
  • To find the causes of the downtime problems in Pohang New Harbor, extensive field measurements of short- and long-period waves for 1.5 months and their analyses were made taking into account of wind and downtime records. Measured wave height ratios inside the harbor are appeared to be slightly larger than predicted ones using numerical methods in the previous studies. It is shown that the major causes of the downtime are the wind wave (or swell) higher than loading criteria and also swell with even smaller wave height but longer period(more than 10 sec). Waves of long-period components[0(min)] were recorded as 20 cm high in case of dominant seiche phenomena but they might not be related with the downtime problems.

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Application of rip current likelihood distributions on rip current forecast system (이안류 예보를 위한 이안류 발생정도 분포 함수의 적용)

  • Choi, Junwoo
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.56 no.8
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    • pp.521-528
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    • 2023
  • An approach for producing a rip current risk index using the rip current likelihood distribution obtained through the FUNWAVE simulations was applied to a rip current forecast system. The approach originally developed for an observation-based real-time rip current warning system was utilized with wave forecast data instead of observations for the rip current forecast system. The availability of the present approach was checked by comparing the observation-based rip current risk index and the wave forecast-based rip current risk index of the Haeundae Beach in 2021.

Characteristics of the Differences between Significant Wave Height at Ieodo Ocean Research Station and Satellite Altimeter-measured Data over a Decade (2004~2016) (이어도 해양과학기지 관측 파고와 인공위성 관측 유의파고 차이의 특성 연구 (2004~2016))

  • WOO, HYE-JIN;PARK, KYUNG-AE;BYUN, DO-SEONG;LEE, JOOYOUNG;LEE, EUNIL
    • The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2018
  • In order to compare significant wave height (SWH) data from multi-satellites (GFO, Jason-1, Envisat, Jason-2, Cryosat-2, SARAL) and SWH measurements from Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS), we constructed a 12 year matchup database between satellite and IORS measurements from December 2004 to May 2016. The satellite SWH showed a root mean square error (RMSE) of about 0.34 m and a positive bias of 0.17 m with respect to the IORS wave height. The satellite data and IORS wave height data did not show any specific seasonal variations or interannual variability, which confirmed the consistency of satellite data. The effect of the wind field on the difference of the SWH data between satellite and IORS was investigated. As a result, a similar result was observed in which a positive biases of about 0.17 m occurred on all satellites. In order to understand the effects of topography and the influence of the construction structures of IORS on the SWH differences, we investigated the directional dependency of differences of wave height, however, no statistically significant characteristics of the differences were revealed. As a result of analyzing the characteristics of the error as a function of the distance between the satellite and the IORS, the biases are almost constant about 0.14 m regardless of the distance. By contrast, the amplitude of the SWH differences, the maximum value minus the minimum value at a given distance range, was found to increase linearly as the distance was increased. On the other hand, as a result of the accuracy evaluation of the satellite SWH from the Donghae marine meteorological buoy of Korea Meteorological Administration, the satellite SWH presented a relatively small RMSE of about 0.27 m and no specific characteristics of bias such as the validation results at IORS. In this paper, we propose a conversion formula to correct the significant wave data of IORS with the satellite SWH data. In addition, this study emphasizes that the reliability of data should be prioritized to be extensively utilized and presents specific methods and strategies in order to upgrade the IORS as an international world-wide marine observation site.

Wave Breaking of Sinusoidal Waves in the Surf Zone (쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파)

  • Hwang, Jong-Kil;Lee, Seung-Hyeob;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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    • 2004.05b
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    • pp.1429-1433
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    • 2004
  • 본 연구에서는 쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파에 대해 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험을 수행하였다. 수치해석 모형에서는 Reynolds 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 난류해석을 위해 $k-\varepsilon$모델을 적용하였으며, 자유수면변위를 추적하기 위해 VOF기법을 사용하져다. 사면 및 평탄지형상에서 발생하는 쇄파양상을 서로 다르게 설정하기 위해 수심과 입사파의 주기와 파고를 변화시킨다. 발생된 정현파의 파형은 해석해와 잘 일치하였으며, 입사파와 파고계가 설치된 위치에서 측정된 파고비 $H/H_0$는 관측값과 비교해 본 길과 놀은 정확도를 나타내었다.

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A Development of Predictive Model for Irregular Wave Height Variation Across the Arbitrary Beach Profiles Including Bar (Bar형 지형을 포함한 임의 해안단면에서 불규칙파의 쇄파 파고변형 예측모델 개발)

  • 김태민;황규남;이재형
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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    • 2000.09a
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    • pp.166-170
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    • 2000
  • 연안역에서의 파랑운동 모형개발에 있어 봉착하는 가장 중요한 문제는 쇄파대에서의 파고변형의 예측이라 할 수 있다. 쇄파대에서의 파고변형 예측 모형의 재발은 파동에너지 손실의 평가를 이용한 Le Mehaute(1962)의 해석적 방법 이후로 예측모델을 개발하기 위한 많은 연구가 수행되어져 왔다. (중략)

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A Study of Statistical Properties of Waves in the Sea Area of Pohang (포항해역에서의 파랑의 통계적 특성에 대한 연구)

  • 안용호;김도영
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2001.05a
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    • pp.216-221
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    • 2001
  • In this paper, statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Pohang, Korea are examined absed on 1998-1999's wave data from directional wave buoy which is located Pohang(Janggigog). Wave data aquisition rate, monthly maximium, minimum and mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated.

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평상파의 항내정온도 분석을 통한 항만가동률의 산정

  • 정원무;정신택;채봉원
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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    • 1993.07a
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    • pp.34-37
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    • 1993
  • 지금까지의 항만정온도 평가시에는 주로 회귀연도 50연의 설계파를 입사파로 사용하여 대상수역에서의 파고비를 구한 후 평상시의 파랑에 대해서도 이 비율이 선형적으로 적용 가능한 것으로 가정하고 사용하였다. 그러나, 설계액와 평상시 파랑은 주기외 파고가 달라서 파랑경사가 다르므로 위와 같이 파고비가 선형적으로 비례한다고 가정하는 것은 실제와 상당한 차이를 야기시킬 수 있다. (중략)

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동해상의 해상풍 파랑에 관한 연구

  • Choe, Jeong-Bu;Sim, Jae-Seon;Kim, Gwang-Sik
    • Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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    • 1984.07a
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    • pp.69-73
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    • 1984
  • 본 연구는 현업부서에서 손쉽게 적용할 수 있는 종관적인 객관적 예보 방법을 개발하기 위하여 동해역을 16개 격자점으로 구성된 격자망을 설정, 각 격자점별로 해상풍과 파고를 산출하여 해상풍 및 파고 분석도를 작성하는 방법을 제시하였다. 실측 치와 계산치를 검증 해 본 결과, 해상풍에 있어서는 1:1로 잘 대응되고 있으며 상관 계수도 평균 0.70 이상의 좋은 결과를 얻었고, 파고 에 있어서는 평균 0.5m 미만의 오차 범위를 보였다.

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Experimental Study of Deep-Water Wave Instability : Part 2. Evolution of The Initially-Modulated Wave Train (심해파의 불안정성에 관한 실험 연구 -제2부 : 초기변형파의 불안정성)

  • Cho, Won Chul
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.203-211
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    • 1993
  • Experiment on the instability and breaking of the initially modulated deep-water wave train (in wave amplitude or in wave frequency) is performed to investigate the effect of the initial modulation on nonlinear wave evolution. Wave amplitude and frequency modulations are developed earlier and larger than in the case of the uniform deep-water wave trains. However, for small wave steepness in the initially amplitude-modulated wave train, the wave train becomes demodulated and nearly returns to the original wave form at the end of the wave evolution far downstream from the breaking region, with energy returning to the fundamental wave frequency.

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