• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.454-467
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• 2015

Reflecting the consumer's desire to look young, the "down-aging" trend, which blurs the distinctions between age groups, is the latest craze in the fashion market. The popularity of this trend made brand identities similar, resulting in customers becoming more interested in segmented notions of fashion (in terms of the story, design, high-quality material, etc.) regarding the product, and in particular, focus has become oriented to the fitness to the human body. In this sense, the researcher aimed to develop the prototype of a slim-fit tailored jacket that fits the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s well. For the purpose of this research, slim-fit tailored jackets from existing brands were collected and analyzed, and a subsequent wearability test was conducted based on the standard somatotype of women in their 30s. The research patterns were prototype of the developed slim fit tailored jacket are bust size of 3.8 cm, waist of 7 cm, and hip size of 3.8 cm. Then the research patterns were selected to develop the prototype of a properly fitting slim-fit tailored jacket. As outlined above, the development of a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype for the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s was conducted by solving the fitness issues of existing brands in order to produce properly fitting jackets that satisfy consumers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.182-199
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• 2015

This research aims to design a new style jacket by developing patterns with dart manipulation, to achieve a tailored jacket which has been familiar to us, but with a more creative design. Tailored jackets has been widely worn both by women and men, and used to create various fashion styles. Generally the classic design with a basic lapel and collar is worn the most, and this shows demonstrates an importance of its design. Giacomo Manzu's work of relief art inspired for a creative design of tailored jackets. As a result of the analysis on the visual properties of the relief sculptures, it was found that an omissions of line for cubic effect and dramatized expression give an illusion effect. Based on the illusion effect shown in the case of a relief design, it was patterned and designed with dart manipulation. Through dart manipulation, the shape of a lapel was designed to meet the rear collar, which corresponds to a background plane, by making it like a sculpture at the front background pattern. Then it was found through dart manipulation could be extensively applied for various designs, as well as used to generate massing. Hopefully this creative pattern and design development would be helpful not only in diversification of consumer's needs, but also in the educational field for pattern and development of the fashion design industry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.211-217
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket focused on the variation of the length according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with the body of middle-aged women. For this study, twenty seven different types of tailored jacket were designed with some variation of their silhouette, the length and the collar's figure on three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. There was a significant difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the body type of middle-aged women. The women of the body type I evaluated that tailored jackets of the long length were more attractive, graceful, and active, soft and preferred the style, and the women of the body type II and III, them of the middle length. The women of the body type I evaluated that tailored jackets of the short length were more attractive, graceful, active, soft and preferred the style. Also there was a meaningful difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the degree of satisfaction with their bodies. As satisfied with their face size, they thought tailored jackets of the long length were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style. As satisfied with the girth of the hip, they evaluated the short/long tailored jackets were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style. As satisfied with their height they valued the long tailored jacket was more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1479-1490
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• 2010

This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.617-627
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• 2020

This study investigates the apparel sizing communication presented in online retail websites focusing on women's ready-to-wear tailored jackets and to analyze the meaning of these information as the actual product size guide factor. A total of 34 retail websites were selected based on the highest growth fashion companies list and the best fashion brands list. We collected size information in two types: size specifications including sizing code, body measurements, garment measurements, and size references including customized size guide tools, size information in customer reviews, model size information, and others. Most websites prefer to present garment measurements rather than body measurements that are recommended notations under Korean standards and related regulations. In addition, there was the absence of consistency in presenting measurements list and terms that can confuse consumers in size communication. This study found that the stature measurement was a key factor in size reference despite that it did not represent a proper garment size. The obsolete Korean numbering sizing code such as '55 and '66 was still used in many ways such as idiomatic expressions for body shape. It also implied that we can take advantage of the old sizing code for accessible size information. The finding of this study gives an in-depth diagnosis of current online sizing information problems and suggests useful basic data for developing online apparel size standards and marketing strategies.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.367-376
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket focused on the collar's figure according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with their body of middle-aged women. For this study, twenty seven different types of tailored jacket were designed with some variation of their silhouette, the length and the collar's figure on three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. There was a significant difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the body type of middleaged women. The women of the type 1 evaluated that portrait lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 2 evaluated that breast lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 3 evaluated that breast lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 4 evaluated that waist lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. There was a meaningful difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the degree of satisfaction with their bodies. As satisfied with their face size, they thought breast/portrait lapel collar were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred that style. As satisfied with weight they regarded portrait lapel collar as more attrative, graceful and active, soft and they preferred that style. In this study we found that the middle-aged women evaluated the tailored jacket which was looking esthetic and fitting their body types, as the most attrative, elegant, active, and tender clothing and they prefered that kind of tailored jacket.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to improve the fitness of Korean manufactured apparel products being exported to China and to provide for the basic data useful to the development of a torso prototypes for the Chinese women. For this purpose, Chinese college women aged between 18 and 24 were sampled to test the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women sample and address the problems of unfitness and thereupon. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; As a result of testing the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women, it was found that Chinese women felt more or less comfortable for the front of the jackets, but felt less comfortable with their side and back. Such a finding suggests that the Chinese women's postures are more turned back than the Korean women's. And also for the slacks, lack of a crotch length causes unnecessary pulls and creases from the back part to the crotch of a pair of slacks and the side line was not suitably placed. For this reason, the differences between the body shapes of Chinese and Korean women should be thoroughly considered when drawing the patterns to export to China.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.