• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.185-203
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.709-725
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• 2021

The study focused on the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Carl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel and Fendi until his recent death. The range of the study was from the 2017 S/S Collection to the 2019 F/W Collection, which collected a total of 767 fashion photographs, including 483 Chanel, 284 Fendi, with tops, bottoms and dresses at VOGUE (https://www.vogue.com). According to the data analysis criteria organized based on prior research and related literature, it was classified in the order of form, color, material, pattern, decoration, fashion image, item and coordination, and content analysis was conducted based on statistical analysis. Overall, the design characteristics of the Chanel collection, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, were rectangle form, tone in tone coloring, combination of identical materials, geometric patterns, and classical images as the main design characteristics of the Chanel collection. The design characteristics shown in the Fendi collection directed by Karl Lagerfeld were rectangle form, tone in tone coloration, hard material combination, abstract pattern, and total coordination. Comparing the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, is as follows. Chanel and Fendi's designs show a lot of rectangle form, tone-in-tone colors, hard-materials and combination of the same material.