• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.532-541
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• 2002

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.329-334
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• 2014

A scientific analysis of ancient textiles provides significant data to understand weaving techniques and culture of textiles in each region and charateristics of materials used at that time. In addition, species identification of waterlogged wooden objects is a scientific analysis method that allow us to verify information of relation of foreign species trade and exchange, of preferable species through kinds of wooden products, and of forest environment as well as method setting of conservation. As a result of a species analysis about historical textiles and a wooden comb in a bronze bowl that were excavated from Hapgang-ri, Dong-Myun, Yungi-gun, Chungcheongnam-do, Textile1 and Textile3 are identified as Urticacese Boehmeri nivea ; ramie, Textie2 is identified as Malvaceae Gossypium herbaceum, and a wooden comb is identified as Betulaceae Betula spp. It is expected that this result will help to make further comparative studies, identifying species of textiles and trees of ancient times.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information necessary for the cleaning of excavated costumes. For the purpose, these researchers reviewed previous records of the actual cleaning of excavated costumes and then implemented and documented the processes of cleaning the Yeosan Song's costumes excavated at Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, which could date back to the early and mid periods of Choseon Dynasty. The excavated clothes of the family provide good examples for comparing men's costume of the 15th century with men's and women's of the mid and late 16th century. The total quantity of excavated remains were 184 and textiles were cotton, silk, hemp, ramie, and union cloth. The clothing remains were processed through wet or dry cleaning in accordance with their fabric condition and the extent to which they were worn or polluted. In detail, the excavated costumes of the Yeosan Song family were cleaned in two stages. For wet cleaning, both anionic(LAS) and nonionic(Triton X-100) surfactants were respectively used as cleaning agents and for dry cleaning, a mixture of n-hexane and n-decane(the ratio of 4 to 6) and petrolic dry cleaning solvent were used. After first cleaning, some cotton, ramie and hemp which had still the stains were processed bleaching and silk which were good condition was processed dry cleaning with the organic solvent again.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.859-868
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• 2007

Degradation products of the dye extracted from turmeric and the turmeric dyed textiles were examined by using GC-MS after 100 oven (OV) and $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$(PER) treatments for up to 28 days. Throughout the OV degradation times, 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)- was found consistently, while isovanillin, and vanillic acid were newly detected. In 28 day PER degradation sample, feruloylmethane, 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-, benzoic acid, and vanillic acid were detected as well as isovanillin. Feruloylrnethane, and 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)- were detected from the degraded fabric samples. With the absence of curcuminoids in the GC-MS result, the decreasing pattern of 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydrokyphenyl)- reflect the degradation of curcuminoids in turmeric extraction with the progression of OV degradation times. It is suggested that isovanillin, feruloylmethane, 2-propenoic acid,3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-, and vanillic acid are the probable fingerprint products for determining the turmeric dye from the badly faded archaeological textiles.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.127-141
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• 2008

This article found that establish of the new study, "Archaeology of Textile", and its process of development based on the Silk Road from China. Archaeology of Textile which is formed by the modern archeology in the 20 centuries developed is a research focused on textile and is required experts knowledge of archaeology, natural science, and history of textile. Textiles are the most difficult to handle of existing antiquities and it is rare to be excavated perfectly. However, the early archaeologists were interested in the Silk Road inconsistently. There were various kinds of silk and embroidery in the center of excavation process. In China, there are still numerous textiles have been excavating from across the country which has leaded to the top level of the textile study in the world. Compare to China, Korea hasn't excavated textile much, and we've been having a difficulty to research with small pieces of textile fabrics. With lack of understanding of textile, it is insignificant to excavate relic such as Chunma-Chong(天馬塚), tomb of king Muryeong(武寧王陵) which has started in-depth studying after 30 years later since it was discovered. Accordingly, a history of archeological textile will be introduced and make sure the possibility of study of excavated textile will make sure through this study.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics and detergency of natural surfactants for the cleaning of excavated fabrics. For this purpose, SDS, a synthetic surfactant, was selected as the control, and five types of natural surfactants, namely, LES, apple wash, tea saponin, cornacopa, and coco betaine were selected. The structures of the surfactants were confirmed by FT-IR spectroscopy analysis, and the characteristics of the surfactants were determined by measuring the pH and surface tension. In addition, detergency testing was carried out on four artificially soiled fabrics and fragments of excavated fabrics. From the results, apple wash, tea saponin, and cornacopa were found to be as good as SDS in terms of detergency in the cleaning of artificially soiled fabrics, and the detergency of tea saponin and coco betaine was found to be good for cleaning excavated fabrics. Therefore, considering the safety and detergency of detergents, among natural surfactants, tea saponin is found to be most suitable for the cleaning of excavated fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.32-43
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• 2006

Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1608-1618
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• 2005

The purpose of this investigation was to investigate the degradation products of the dye component extracted from madder dyed fabrics using the GC-MS analysis and to evaluate the change of color due to degradation treatment. Four different degradation protocols were used in this study,; refrigeration at $7^{\circ}C$ (LT), room temperature (RT), oven treatment at $100^{\circ}C$ (OV), and $H_2O_2/UV(PER)$ method. Degradation times for each thermal system were 6 hour, 24 hour, 48 hour, 1 week, 2 week, 4 week. Alizarin was detected from the control and degraded samples of both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. Benzoic acid, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride were detected as the degradation products for both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. The result suggest that these products can be used as the fingerprints of GC-MS analysis for the identification of madder dye in archaeological textiles. Both alizarin dyed and madder dyed samples became less red and less yellow after degradation. In the PER degradation system madder dyed sample showed the greatest color difference even after 1 week of degradation treatment. Further research is necessary for investigating the color change in the exhumed textiles, which is caused by the dual action of dye fading and the staining of organic matters in the soil.