• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.83-91
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• 1997

In this study, the dyeability of natural dye extracted from chesnut shell was investigated in order to explore the using of discarded chesnut shell in natural dyeing. Dyeing experiments were done in various dyeing conditions which were different in dyeing temperature, concentration of dyebath, dyeing time, repitition of dyeing. pH of dyebath and mordant with 3 kinds of experimental fabrics silk, nylon and cotton. Color and color difference ($\Delta$ E) of every dyed fabrics were measured and color fastness to drycleaning, washing, perspiration and light were measured. The results were as follows ; 1. The dyebath became thicker with time and temperature of extraction and the characteristics of dyebath prepared chesnut shell 1g : distilled water 30㏄ after 3 hrs-boiling were 32,400ppm and 3.7pH. 2. The dyeabilities of silk and nylon fabrics were good and color difference was increased with dyeing temperature, concentration of dyebath, dyeing time, number of repitition and acidity of dyebath. But the dyeability of cotton was very poor compared to silk and nylon. 3. Without the treatment of mordant, the dyeability of silk was little lower than that of nylon, but after the treatment of mordants it became higher than nylon. After the treatment of mordant Cu and Fe, the dyeability of cotton was increased although the natural dye from the chesnut shell was hardly absorved in cotton without mordant. 4. On the whole, the colorfastness of dyed silk and nylon were very good except the colorfastness to washing in silk and the colorfastness to light in nylon.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.88-97
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• 2011

We carried out cationization of Dak pulp (paper mulberry bast fiber pulp) which is raw material of Hanji (Traditional Korean Paper) using a (3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl) trimethyl ammonium chloride to improve dyeability during a dyeing of Hanji with Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides) and smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria). Fiber specific charge densities were determined using polyelectrolyte titration method and K/S values of dyed Hanji was calculated by Kubelka-Munk equation. As the result, fiber specific charge density increased with degree of cationization. Colors of Hanji dyed with Gardenia did not vary significantly with degree of cationization, but cationized Hanji dyed with smoke tree showed a large increase of a* value and reddish yellow color. After-mordanting did not decrease K/S value of dyes with cationized Hanji. K/S values of dyed Hanji decreased with increasing dyeing temperature. For smoke tree, the cationization impair lightfastness of dyed Hanji without mordant. After-mordanting with copper acetate or iron chloride improved lightfastness of dyed Hanji.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.125-135
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• 2004

Hair coloring before the 1980s was mostly to hide white hair by dying in black. With the introduction of color TV, however, the size of the coloring market has been expanding. Nowadays, artificial synthetic dyes are widely used, which, though advantageous in many points, have problems such as harmful effects on the human body, carcinogenesis, environmental contamination and damage on hair. On the contrary, natural vegetables obtained from Curcuma Longa L., A. catechu, polygonum indigo, henna, etc. are little harmful to hair or the skin of the head and cause few environmental problems. In addition, as they are natural materials collected from nature, they are considered positively by consumers. Thus the present study started from the necessity of research on the convenient use of environment?friendly and side-effect-free natural dyes, coloring technology for reproducing original color, the improvement of adhesion rate, etc. From the present research were obtained yellow color from Curcuma Longa L., brown from A. catechu, blue from polygonum indigo and orange from henna. It is expected that, based on materials from previous researches, there may be more researches on the use of natural dyes as hair colors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.122-128
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• 2010

This study examined several dyeing properties, physiological responses and comfort sensation of cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal. The cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and treated with chitosan showed 99.9% antibacterial property and improved deodorization, and colorfastness. Eight children with atopic dermatitis worn underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal during 4 months. Their parents reported fewer itches of children. Wearing cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and non-dyed with bamboo charcoal respectively, these eight children rested for 20 minutes, then exercised for 10 minutes, and then rested for 30 minutes in the room maintained $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ Children's rectal temperature, skin temperature and microclimate inside garment of two types of cotton knit underwear were compared. As a result, the rectal temperature and skin temperature were higher when children were wearing underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal than non-dyed underwear. The microclimate temperature and microclimate humidity at the back of children were lower when children with underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal exercised and recovered.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1045-1050
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• 2008

Developing of high technology, productivity of the fiber product has being rapidly increased and also various kinds of advanced treatment process lead consumer's needs to more high functional, clean and healthy goods. Moreover, increasing in the concern of eco-friendly material and processing, it has been getting popular that the dyeing method like as using natural dyes is more eco-friendly and natural-friendly treatment process. The method, used in this study, adhesion by binding with micro-capsulized natural material to fabric has low change in quality by external influence and high ability in spray effect by broken capsule which comes to pressure and friction when it dressed. Also it has wide application from natural fiber to synthetic fiber. The purpose of this study is development of multi-functional synthetic material with micro-capsulized Scutellaria baicalensis on PET. Moreover, it was driven by comparison of colormetric properties and fastness between regular dip-dyeing method and binding with micro-capsulized material method. Dye ability was arranged mostly low exhaustion but the PET treated by micro-capsule was more or less better than the dip-dyeing PET. Through the SEM(Scanning Electron Microscope) of PET treated by micro-capsule, it has good residence of capsules even after 5 or 10 times washing. Wash and light fastness was arranged some different grade by each condition but mostly high achievement and the micro-capsulized PET was more improved than regular dip-dyed PET.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.48-56
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• 2000

Yellow dye-stuffs in natural plant were extracted from a gardenia, saffron, safflower, amur tree and pagoda. And then they were used to color Korean handmade paper(Hanji) on using a mordant. The results of the degree of discoloration are as follows. 1. As for a gardenia(Gardenia jasminodes Ellis for. grandiflora Makino), the effects of coloring were outstanding in the acid area. But for the preservation, it might be desirable that used a lye in a dye-stuff obtained at $40{\pm}5^{\circ}C$. 2. As for saffron(Curcuma longa L.), when used alum as a mordant, it was colored to a medium yellow color with green color. But easily discolorated and was not desirable. And, it didn't fit in a dye-stuff of Hanji. 3. For safflower(Carthamus tinctorius L.), when pH was in the low acid it was colored to the cleaner yellow color. It was the distinction of discoloration that the degree of brightness's increase was low. 4. For amur cork-tree(Phellodendron amurense Rupr.), the effects of yellow coloring were great in the areas of acidity and alkali. But, when used alum, the degree of the discoloration was high and was not effective. 5. For pagoda tree(Styphnolobium Japonica L.), using a calcium hydroxide as a mordant, enabled the more than average yellow to be gained. The degree of discoloration was good.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2009.05a
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• pp.223-226
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• 2009

최근 의생활에 있어서 가장 큰 변화는 쾌적성의 추구와 건강을 중심으로 한 기능성 소재에 대한 소비자들의 욕구가 증대된다는 것이다. 천연 섬유 중 모시는 통기성이 우수하고 감촉이 깔깔하여 고온 다습한 우리나라의 여름철 옷감으로 좋으므로 현대 의생활로의 도입이 요구되고 있다. 그동안 모시직물은 심미적인 욕구에도 잘 맞아 한국인의 정서에 좋은 이미지로 자리 잡고 있지만 수공예적 생산방식을 그대로 답습하고 있어 전통모시직물로는 많이 이용이 되어왔으나 현대 방적모시직물을 이용한 새로운 직물디자인 개발은 이루어지기 어려운 실정이었다. 그러나 최근 방적모시섬유에 대한 연구가 활발하게 진행되기 시작하면서 현대 방적모시직물의 생산이 가능하게 되었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 원사의 특성과 제조공정 특성에 의해 미세한 감성촉감의 차이를 유발하기 좋은 폴리에스터를 경사로하고 방적모시와 라이오셀을 위사로 하여 현대 모시직물의 개발을 시도하였다. 모시의 소비를 증가시키고 현대인의 감성에 맞게 심미성을 향상시킬 수 있도록 직물문양을 디자인하였다. 직물의 복잡한 문양을 컴퓨터로 디자인하고 자동으로 제직이 가능하게 하는 시스템인 EAT 프로그램을 이용하여 자카드 직물 특유의 고급스러움을 살리며 공정과정에서의 실의 밀림 등을 고려하며 조직을 설계하였다. 설계된 직물은 제직 후 염색 가공하여 쿠션, 방석, 테이블 러너 등의 시제품으로 제작하여 고부가가치 모시제품의 개발가능성을 살펴보았다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.433-440
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• 2002

Natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree have been known as them of the most widely used yellow vegetable dyes. Cotton and silk fabrics(KS K 0905) were chosen as specimens. Those were dyed with natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree. The conditions of dyeing were varied according to the kinds of mordants, using mordants or not and the concentrations of the natural dyes. Sn, Al, Fe and Cu were chosen for the mordants. 5%(owf), 10%(owf), 15%(owf) and 20%(owf) were used as for the concentration of the natural dyes. The color differences were measured by the Spectrometer(UV-VIS-NIR) before and after dyeing. The results are as follows: 1. Deeper colors were proportionately shown up to the concentration of the natural dye. 2. Silk was shown the higher dye affinity than the cotton at the same concentration of the dye. 3. The color difference between the Sn-mordanted specimens and the Al-mordanted specimens were significant. When the concentration of the dye increased, the colors got darker, specially in b* value. 4. The color difference between the Fe-mordanted specimens and the Cu-mordanted specimens were significant in L* value and b* value. 5. The deeper or lighter yellow were controllable under the concentration of the natural dye and the mordants. 6. The most effective and the economic concentration of the natural dye was 10% owf through the experiments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.381-388
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.377-384
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.