• 보존과학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.119-129
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• 2012

출토복식은 조선시대 복식문화를 알 수 있는 중요한 자료들이다. 그 중에서도 염직물들은 복식의 문화사적 연구뿐만 아니라 보존과학적 연구 및 유물복원을 위해 꼭 필요한 자료들이다. 그러나 매장환경에서 오랜 기간 동안 영향을 받으면서 색은 변퇴색되었으며 발굴 후에도 점차 퇴색되어가므로 본래의 색을 추정하기가 어렵다. 이에 본 연구에서는 적색, 황색, 자색, 청색의 천연염색포 표준시료를 제작하여 고속액체크로마토그래피(High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Photodiode Array Detector, 이하 HPLC-PDA)에 의해 분석하고, 같은 방법으로 출토염직물에 남아있는 색소를 추출하여 분석함으로써 출토직물의 염료분석을 시행하였으며 당시의 색을 추정하기 위해 전자현미경(Scanning electron microscope 이하 SEM)에 연결된 에너지 분산형 원소분석장치(Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy 이하 EDX)를 이용하여 매염제 분석을 시행하였다. 본 실험을 위해 16~17세기 출토직물편으로 대전시 송천동 출토 은진송씨 송문창 출토직물 2점과 대전시 목달동 출토 여산송씨 송희종 출토직물 1점 등 3점을 사용하였으며, 분석결과 alizarin, purpurin, indigo, ellagic acid 등의 색소가 검출되어 꼭두서니-쪽의 중복염색, 꼭두서니 염색, 석류-쪽의 중복염색 등의 결과를 얻을 수 있었으며 매염제로는 모든 유물에서 Al이 검출되었다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.120-134
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• 2021

조선 말기 방한용 깔개인 모담(毛毯)이 창덕궁 성정각의 해체 공사 중 발견되었다. 문헌기록에 비해 현전하는 조선시대 모직물 유물이 많지 않아 유물로서 가치가 높다. 특히 1907년 창덕궁 성정각을 수리한 기록이 있어, 모담은 19세기 말 또는 20세기 초에 제작된 것으로 생각된다. 출토 모담은 자적색 계열의 바탕 직물로 위에 황색, 홍색 등으로 선염한 색사를 표면에만 삽입하여 문양을 시문하였다. 모담의 식서부분은 S연의 면사가 확인되었으며, 지경사는 Z연의 황마사, 지위사는 S연의 황마사, 문경사는 S연의 모사를 사용했다. 특히 무늬는 루프파일의 색사로, 색사의 경계면에서 일부 컷 파일이 확인되나 지위사로 고정되어 표면에 거의 드러나지 않는 다. 황마사와 모사를 사용한 것은 18세기 중엽 유럽의 브뤼셀 카펫의 영향을 받은 것으로 짐작된다. 모담의 문양을 밝히는 데 한계가 있으며 다만 문양이 부분적으로 반복됨을 알 수 있다. 이상의 연구내용을 도출하기 위해 문헌과 회화자료 외에 현미경 분석, 적외선 분광분석을 실시하였다. 또한 유물에 사용된 염료를 밝히기 위해 색도측정을 토대로 자외-가시광 분광분석을 실시하여 천연 염색한 직물 샘플에 대한 교차분석을 시도하였다. 그 결과 모담의 녹색 모사는 쪽을 사용하지 않았으며, 자적색의 바탕조직은 소목으로 염색한 것으로 추정할 수 있다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제48권4호
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• pp.331-342
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• 2022

비만은 에너지의 섭취와 소비의 불균형으로 인해 지방조직이 과도하게 분화하여 과잉 축적이 되면서 발생하게 되는 대사질환 중 하나이다. 본 연구에서 저자들은 3T3-L1 지방세포를 이용해 천연 유래 6 종 혼합물인 SliMax의 항비만 효과를 확인하였다. 그 결과 SliMax는 지방분화 단계에서 후기 분화를 조절하는 것으로 알려진 PPARγ와 C/EBPα의 발현 억제를 통해 지방분화를 억제하는 결과를 보였다. 또한 지방세포 분화 유도 후 지방세포 분해 과정에서 SliMax는 지방분해 관련 단백질인 ATGL과 HSL 발현 증가를 통해 큰 사이즈의 단방성 지방구를 작은 사이즈의 수많은 다방성 지방구로 분해하였다. 마지막으로 갈색지방으로 유도하는 효능을 확인하기 위해 UCP-1의 발현과 미토콘드리아 양을 면역형광염색법으로 확인한 결과 SliMax가 지방세포의 UCP-1의 발현과 미토콘드리아 양을 증가시켰다. 결과를 종합해볼 때, 천연 유래 혼합물인 SliMax는 지방 분화억제와 지방분해 촉진을 통해 지방구의 형성을 억제하고, 열 생산과 에너지 소비와 관련된 갈색지방화 촉진 기능을 가져 항비만 소재로의 가능성을 가진다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.1051-1059
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• 1997

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing: on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics dyed with the extract from Turmeric. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absorption band of Turmeric extract were 400 nm respectively and the wavelengths were 440 nm after the mordants were added in the color extract. The bands of Turmeric extract shifted to long wave length side as pH increased. In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased as pH increased. 2. The main color substance in extract from Turmeric were expected to be curcumin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20 g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5∼10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by premordanting and synmordanting had influenced upon K/S valse. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Turmeric extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perspiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.662-670
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to find out the effect of color, tone, perceiver's gender on image perception of natural dyeing of cotton and mosi. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and response scale(The 7-point semantic). The stimuli was 20 fabrics manipulated with two kinds of fabrics(cotton, mosi), five colors(red, yellow, blue, green, purple) and two tone variations. The subjects were 412 adults in Daejeon and Kongju. The results were as follows: The perceived image of the stimulus material consisted of 4 dimensions (attractive, conspicuous, hand, weight) colors, tons, materials as well as perceiver's gender affected on some selected image dimensions color affected on the four image dimensions, tone affected on the conspicuous, hand and weight images, materials affected on the attractive and hand image and perceiver's gender affected on the weight image. Interaction effects existed among colors, tons and materials on the conspicuous image. In conclusion the results support gestalt theory in which the sum of the parts is bigger than the whole and design strategies for the Mosi fabrics should be developed on the basis of persuited design image as well as target consumers.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.324-333
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• 2011

This study was accomplished for the purpose of developing a textile processing ingredient that is harmless to the human body and environment. The research method consists of dyeing cotton textiles by extracting the dye solution from ginseng. Then, chrominance, after treatment, antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio of cotton fabrics dyed with ginseng extracts were tested and results were examined. The research procedure involved first extracting the dye solution from the ginseng's by-product (fine roots) and then dyeing was effectuated differently according to the test samples temperature and dyeing time requirements. Brightness in all dye substances was lower in pre-mordanting. Beige color could be extracted from pre-mordanted samples. And dark orange from postmordanted samples. Color-festness was high in all samples. Most of samples show a big antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio. Through this research it has been discovered that, when applied to textiles, Korea's ginseng extract possessed reproducibility features as a natural dye and a possibility to be used in cutting which plays a crucial role in hygienic processing. In addition, by using ginseng's by-product for dyeing processing as the dye solution, efficient application of resources and occurrences of no water waste damages were demonstrated and thus, proved to be environmentally-friendly. Specifically, through this experiment, it was found that saponin, ginseng's special characteristics, possessed excellent antibacterial odor repelling functions to clothing as well as the capability to prevent skin disease.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

The study was about on the colorfastness of the natural vegetable dye. Impatient Balsamina was chosen as a speciesof the natural vegetable dye. It has a long history for Korean Women‘s grooming on the nail to be reddened, Actually those were very easy to gather and easy to extract the colors from the leaves and the flowers, Also Impatient Balsamina were abundant near our environment. So this was a cue as a natural dye for the wool fabric, This study was designed to testify the possibility of the Impatient Balsamina as a natural vegetable. First, 2 kinds of extracts from the Impatient Balsamina were prepared. Second, 2 kinds of mordants and 3 kinds of dyeing process were used. And the dyed wool fabric were evaluated the color index using Chroma Meter, the result was recorded as L$^*$, a$^*$, b$^*$ value(65.86, 16.40, 36.80). The effect of the mordants was more effective in Cr mordant than Al mordant in the color fastness and the color affinity. The very interesting results were in the colorfastness to the drycleaning, that was graded 4 to 5, but the colorfastness to light was low, graded 2. Impatient Balsamina was veryfied, it could be a natural vegetable dye for the wool fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.15-27
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• 2014

A natural colorant was extracted from Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica and gromwell as extractants. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of extracts and dyeing/mordanting conditions on colorimetric changes of ramie fabrics. The color of fabrics tended to become darker as the numbers of dyeing process and mordanting process increased using three kinds of extracts. As the numbers of dyeing and mordanting increased, the ramie fabrics gradually increased to show reddish and bluish signs using Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica, and gromwell extracts(500ml and 1,000ml). In the case of 1,500ml of gromwell extracts, the ramie fabrics showed the color with more redness and yellowness. Color difference (${\Delta}E$) of dyed and mordanted fabrics increased as the numbers of dyeing and mordanting processes increased. The apparent colors of ramie fabrics using Acer ginnala were Y and GY. The Alnus japonica extracts produced Y and GY colors on ramie fabrics. With varying amount of gromwell extracts, the colors of dyed and mordanted fabrics were R, YR, GY, G, PB, P and RP, however, the main color was PB. It was concluded that the extracts of Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica and gromwell can be used as a natural dye producing black colors.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.908-917
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• 2004

In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if $Al^{3+}$ ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.