• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.119-129
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• 2012

Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.120-134
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• 2021

A Woolen carpet from the late Joseon Dynasty was unearthed in the process of repairing Seongjeonggak in Changdeokgung. Since relics are rarer than documentary records, the woolen carpet is highly valued as a relics. It is presumed to have been woven in the late 19th or early 20th century because there is a record of repairing Seongjeonggak in 1907. In the carpet, a pattern is made by inserting colored yarn dyed yellow and red onto a reddish-purple ground weave. The selvage of the woolen carpet used cotton thread, and jute is used for the warp and weft of the ground weave. The colored patterns is made of wool in the form of loop pile. Cut piles may appear occasionally when the colored yarn changes, but are almost invisible from the surface because they are pressed tightly with a shuttered weft. Making carpets with jute and wool is thought to be influenced by the Brussels carpets of the mid-18th century. Furthermore, the woolen carpet is torn and the pattern is completely unclear; however, it is understandable that the pattern is partially repeated. Microscopic and Fourier transform-Infrared spectrometer(FT-IR) analyses were performed for the above investigation. To identify the dyes used in relics, we compared them with natural dyed fabric samples based on chromaticity measurements and Ultraviolet/Visible spectrophotometer(UV-Vis) analysis. These analyses revealed that the woolen carpet's dyed green yarn did not use indigo, and reddish-purple ground weave is estimated to have used Caesalpinia sappan.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.331-342
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• 2022

Obesity is one of the metabolic diseases caused by excessive differentiation and accumulation of adipose tissue due to an imbalance between energy intake and consumption. In this study, we investigated the anti-obesity effect of SliMax, a natural-derived 6 compounds mixture, by using 3T3-L1 cells. As a result, SliMax showed the inhibitory effect on adipocyte differentiation through down-regulation of the PPARγ and C/EBPα expression, which are known to regulate the late adipogenesis stage. In the process of lipolysis on differentiated 3T3-L1 cells, SliMax accelerated decomposition of large-sized unilocular lipid droplet into numerous small-sized multilocular lipid droplets through up-regulation of the expression of lipolysis-related proteins ATGL and HSL. Finally, in order to confirm the effect of SliMax on induction of brown adipocyte, the expression of UCP-1 and the amount of mitochondria were confirmed by immunofluorescent staining, and as a result, SliMax increased the expression of UCP-1 and the amount of mitochondria in fat cells. Taken together, those results suggest that SliMax, a naturally-derived mixture, have a potential to be anti-obesity agent through exerting inhibitory effect on the formation of lipid droplet by suppression of adipogenesis and stimulation of lipolysis, and browning effect associated with generation of heat energy and energy consumption.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1051-1059
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• 1997

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing: on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics dyed with the extract from Turmeric. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absorption band of Turmeric extract were 400 nm respectively and the wavelengths were 440 nm after the mordants were added in the color extract. The bands of Turmeric extract shifted to long wave length side as pH increased. In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased as pH increased. 2. The main color substance in extract from Turmeric were expected to be curcumin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20 g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5∼10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by premordanting and synmordanting had influenced upon K/S valse. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Turmeric extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perspiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.5 s.142
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• pp.662-670
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to find out the effect of color, tone, perceiver's gender on image perception of natural dyeing of cotton and mosi. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and response scale(The 7-point semantic). The stimuli was 20 fabrics manipulated with two kinds of fabrics(cotton, mosi), five colors(red, yellow, blue, green, purple) and two tone variations. The subjects were 412 adults in Daejeon and Kongju. The results were as follows: The perceived image of the stimulus material consisted of 4 dimensions (attractive, conspicuous, hand, weight) colors, tons, materials as well as perceiver's gender affected on some selected image dimensions color affected on the four image dimensions, tone affected on the conspicuous, hand and weight images, materials affected on the attractive and hand image and perceiver's gender affected on the weight image. Interaction effects existed among colors, tons and materials on the conspicuous image. In conclusion the results support gestalt theory in which the sum of the parts is bigger than the whole and design strategies for the Mosi fabrics should be developed on the basis of persuited design image as well as target consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.324-333
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• 2011

This study was accomplished for the purpose of developing a textile processing ingredient that is harmless to the human body and environment. The research method consists of dyeing cotton textiles by extracting the dye solution from ginseng. Then, chrominance, after treatment, antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio of cotton fabrics dyed with ginseng extracts were tested and results were examined. The research procedure involved first extracting the dye solution from the ginseng's by-product (fine roots) and then dyeing was effectuated differently according to the test samples temperature and dyeing time requirements. Brightness in all dye substances was lower in pre-mordanting. Beige color could be extracted from pre-mordanted samples. And dark orange from postmordanted samples. Color-festness was high in all samples. Most of samples show a big antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio. Through this research it has been discovered that, when applied to textiles, Korea's ginseng extract possessed reproducibility features as a natural dye and a possibility to be used in cutting which plays a crucial role in hygienic processing. In addition, by using ginseng's by-product for dyeing processing as the dye solution, efficient application of resources and occurrences of no water waste damages were demonstrated and thus, proved to be environmentally-friendly. Specifically, through this experiment, it was found that saponin, ginseng's special characteristics, possessed excellent antibacterial odor repelling functions to clothing as well as the capability to prevent skin disease.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

The study was about on the colorfastness of the natural vegetable dye. Impatient Balsamina was chosen as a speciesof the natural vegetable dye. It has a long history for Korean Women‘s grooming on the nail to be reddened, Actually those were very easy to gather and easy to extract the colors from the leaves and the flowers, Also Impatient Balsamina were abundant near our environment. So this was a cue as a natural dye for the wool fabric, This study was designed to testify the possibility of the Impatient Balsamina as a natural vegetable. First, 2 kinds of extracts from the Impatient Balsamina were prepared. Second, 2 kinds of mordants and 3 kinds of dyeing process were used. And the dyed wool fabric were evaluated the color index using Chroma Meter, the result was recorded as L$^*$, a$^*$, b$^*$ value(65.86, 16.40, 36.80). The effect of the mordants was more effective in Cr mordant than Al mordant in the color fastness and the color affinity. The very interesting results were in the colorfastness to the drycleaning, that was graded 4 to 5, but the colorfastness to light was low, graded 2. Impatient Balsamina was veryfied, it could be a natural vegetable dye for the wool fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.15-27
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• 2014

A natural colorant was extracted from Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica and gromwell as extractants. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of extracts and dyeing/mordanting conditions on colorimetric changes of ramie fabrics. The color of fabrics tended to become darker as the numbers of dyeing process and mordanting process increased using three kinds of extracts. As the numbers of dyeing and mordanting increased, the ramie fabrics gradually increased to show reddish and bluish signs using Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica, and gromwell extracts(500ml and 1,000ml). In the case of 1,500ml of gromwell extracts, the ramie fabrics showed the color with more redness and yellowness. Color difference (${\Delta}E$) of dyed and mordanted fabrics increased as the numbers of dyeing and mordanting processes increased. The apparent colors of ramie fabrics using Acer ginnala were Y and GY. The Alnus japonica extracts produced Y and GY colors on ramie fabrics. With varying amount of gromwell extracts, the colors of dyed and mordanted fabrics were R, YR, GY, G, PB, P and RP, however, the main color was PB. It was concluded that the extracts of Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica and gromwell can be used as a natural dye producing black colors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.908-917
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• 2004

In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if $Al^{3+}$ ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.