• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 2002.08a
• /
• pp.287-293
• /
• 2002

조석을 수치모의하기 위해 North carolina 대학의 R.A. Luettich와 Notre Dame 대학의 J.J. Westerink가 개발한 ADvanced CIRCulation model for oceanic, coastal and estuarine waters(ADCIRC) 유한요소모형 (Luettich, et al., 1992)은 수심 적분된 2 차원 모형(2DDI)과 3차원 모형(3DL)으로 구성되어 있는데, 그 중 2차원 ADCIRC 유한요소모형은 천수방정식에서 연속방정식과 운동방정식을 합성하여 수면변위에 대해 하나의 식으로 표현한 파동방정식(wave equation)을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 있다. (중략)

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 2011.02a
• /
• pp.57-57
• /
• 2011

지진해일은 진행속도가 빠르고 파장이 길며 파형의 변화 없이 먼 거리를 진행 할 수 있어 주변지역은 물론 멀리 떨어진 지역에도 심한 범람피해를 야기시킨다. 지진해일의 일반적인 특징으로 장파와 단파가 합성되어 있고 먼 거리를 전파할 경우 분산효과의 역할이 중요하게 된다. 특히 우리나라의 동해안에 영향을 주는 지진해일은 단주기파 성분이 강하고 파장에 비해 먼 거리를 전파하기에 분산을 고려하는 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 하지만 지금까지의 지진해일 전파모의를 위한 모형은 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 복잡한 계산과 계산시간이 길다는 단점 때문에 선형 천수방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 분산효과는 수치분산을 이용하여 고려해왔다. 지진해일 해석 시 일반적으로 사용되어 오던 기존의 leap-frog 유한차분 모형(Imamura et al., 1988; 조용식, 1996)은 지배방정식으로 선형 천수방정식을 사용하고 파의 분산효과는 수치분산을 이용하여 고려하므로 정해진 시간 간격에 대해 수심에 따라 격자 간격을 적절히 선택해야 하는데 수심이 복잡하게 변하는 경우 격자간격 조정이 불가능하여 분산효과를 정도 높게 고려할 수 없다. 이 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 윤성범 등(2004)은 파동방정식의 인위적인 분산항을 이용하여 Boussinesq 방정식의 분산효과를 고려할 수 있는 능동적인 분산보정기법을 제안하였고 Cho et al.(2007)는 일정한 수심에서 수치적인 분산오차가 Boussinesq 방정식의 물리적인 분산항을 대체하도록 수심, 격자 간격 및 계산 시간 간격 사이의 관계식을 유도하고 Boussinesq 방정식의 분산항과 일치하는 수치분산을 이용하여 실용적인 분산보정기법을 개발하였다. 이에 Ahn(2010)은 현재 컴퓨터의 계산 능력이 향상되어 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분하여 계산하는데 무리가 없다고 판단하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분한 모형을 개발하였다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 원해 지진해일 전파모의에 이용되어왔던 선형 천수방정식에 수치분산을 고려한 모형 대신 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 유한차분 모형을 제안하였으며 기존의 선형 Boussinesq 방정식 모형의 격자와 수심간의 제약을 없애기 위해 차분 기법을 달리 한 2차 정확도의 유한차분 모형을 제안하였다. 검증을 위하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 해석해(Carrier, 1991)와 비교하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.14-20
• /
• 1991

Accurate estimation of irregular wave transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region is very important for the design of coastal structures and establishing beach erosion control. In this study. the transformation of directional spectrum is tested numerically using a conservation equation for energy flux and. based upon the joint distribution of wave height. period and wave direction. shoaling effects are predicted in the shallow water region. The applicability of the proposed procedure is verified through comparison with field observation data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 2005

For the simulation of tsunami propagation an active dispersion-correction two-dimensional finite element model has been developed based on a shallow-water wave equation. This model employs an arbitrary triangular mesh and an explicit time integration scheme. However, the physical dispersion effects as included in the Boussinesq equations can be taken into account in the computation. The validity of the dispersion-correction scheme developed in this study is verified through the comparison of numerical solutions calculated using the new scheme with analytical ones considering dispersion effect of waves. As a result, the present model is shown to be considerably accurate.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.484-491
• /
• 2007

Numerical experiments using a numerical wave tank have been performed to verier the nonlinear interaction between monochromatic waves and a submerged horizontal plate. As a model for numerical wave tank, we used a higher-order Boundary Element Method(BEM) based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory and CADMAS-SURF for solving Navier Stokes equations and exact free surface conditions. Both nonlinear models are able to predict the higher harmonic generation in the shallow water region over a submerged horizontal plate. CADMAS-SURF, which involves the viscous effect, can evaluate the higher harmonic generation by flow separation and vortices at the each ends of plate. The comparison of reflection and transmission coefficients with experimental results(Patarapanich and Cheong, 1989) at different lengths and submergence depths of a horizontal plate are presented with a good agreement. It is found that the transfer of energy from the incident fundamental waves to higher harmonics becomes larger as the submergence depth ratio decreases and the length ratio increases.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.355-365
• /
• 1994

An analytical model of return flow is presented outside the surf zone. The governing equation is derived from the Navier-Stokes equation and the continuity. Each term of the governing equation is evaluated by the ordering analysis. Then the infinitesimal terms, i.e. the turbulent normal stress, the squared vertical velocity of water particle and the streaming velocity, are neglected. The driving forces of return flow are calculated using the linear wave theory for the shallow water approximation. Especially, the space derivative of local wave heights is described considering a shoaling coefficient. The vertical distribution of eddy viscosity is discussed to the customary types which are the constant, the linear function and the exponential function. Each coefficient of the eddy viscosities which sensitively affect the precision of solutions is uniquely decided from the additional boundary condition which the velocity becomes zero at the wave trough level. Also the boundary conditions at the bottom and the continuity relation are used in the integration of the governing equation. The theoretical solutions of present model are compared with the various experimental results. The solutions show a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of constant or exponential function type eddy viscosity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.31 no.6
• /
• pp.409-422
• /
• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.