• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.32 no.6
• /
• pp.649-655
• /
• 1999

The maximum run-up heights of periodic waves are numerically investigated in this study. Incident waves are sinusoidal and enoidal waves. The maximum run-up height of enoidal wave approaches that of sinusoidal wave as the wave length decreases, while it approaches that of solitary wave as the wave length increases. If wave height is fixed, the maximum run up heights of enoidal waves are always greater than those of sinusoidal waves but smaller than those of solitary waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.32 no.4
• /
• pp.223-229
• /
• 2020

The fault failure process with time difference affects the initial generation of waveforms of tsunamis, which consequently changes the runup height on the coast. To examine the effect of time difference in fault failure process on the runup height, a numerical simulation was conducted assuming a number of virtual subsea earthquakes in the west coast of Japan. Results revealed that maximum runup heights along the east coast of Korea were minimal when the subfaults were aligned parallel with the shoreline. Meanwhile, if they were located perpendicular to the shoreline, the superposition effect of the initial surface by each subfault was noticeable, resulting in an increase in maximum runup height on the coast.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
• /
• v.7 no.5
• /
• pp.187-197
• /
• 2007

Experimental study for a submerged structure was conducted to protect coastal structures and shorelines. The rectangular submerged structure known as the most efficient shape among various submerged structures in the literature was fabricated at the nose of a rubble mound breakwater. The reflection coefficients and the run-up heights along the slope of a breakwater were measured for different significant wave heights and periods. It is found in this study that the reflection coefficient is affected more relatively by the significant wave period than the significant wave height and the run-up heights are reduced approximately 28% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{2%}$ and 26% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{33%}$, respectively, by the installation of a submerged structure inducing the interception and breaking of waves.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2022.05a
• /
• pp.83-83
• /
• 2022

여러 분야의 연구자들이 지진해일의 위험에 대한 경각심을 가지고, 지진해일의 발생, 전파 그리고 수리현상을 해석하기 위해 많은 노력을 기울이고 있다. 해안지역에서 직접적인 피해를 입히는 지진해일의 충격파, 처오름, 월파, 침수 등에 관한 연구에 유사한 파형 특성을 가진 고립파를 많이 사용한다. 고립파는 비선형성과 분산이 균형을 이루는 가정에서 Korteweg-de Vries(KdV) 방정식을 만족하는 안정적인 이론파이다. 고립파의 파형분포는 수심에 의해 결정되고, 일정 수심 이상에서는 지진해일을 대신해 사용할 수 있다. 그러나 수심이 낮은 천해에서는 주기와 파장이 비현실적으로 짧아짐으로 지진해일을 대신하기에는 무리가 있다. 본 연구에서는 지진해일의 처오름 특성을 분석하기 위한 1:20 불투과성 경사면이 포함된 수치파동수조를 구성한다. 먼저, 일본 NOWPHAS(Nationwide Ocean Wave information network for Ports and HArbourS)의 관측자료를 이용하여 2011 동일본 지진해일과 고립파의 파형분포를 비교한다. 그리고 다양한 파형의 지진해일 생성할 수 있게 개발된 조파방법을 수치파동수조에 도입하여 수치해석을 수행한다. 수치해석결과, 지진해일의 처오름 높이가 고립파에 비해 최대 1.8배, 최소 1.13배, 평균 1.56배 증가한다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.26 no.6
• /
• pp.381-387
• /
• 2014

Recently the large-height swell-like waves generated in the eastern coast of South Korea have been observed frequently. The characteristics of the runup and overtopping of the large-height swell-like waves formed in deep water and attack the coast, causing damages to both lives and facilities have been studied. The correlation between spectral shape parameters and significant wave height has been investigated by analyzing long term wave spectrum data. Numerical runup experiments using MIKE21 BW Module were performed with $Q_p$, additional shape parameter, and identified the variations and characteristics of runup heights with respect to the variations of spectral shape.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.28 no.3B
• /
• pp.345-354
• /
• 2008

In this present study, we made a first attempt to investigate physical transformations of incident waves in surf and swash zone and hydrodynamic phenomena of detached and submerged breakwaters. For an accurate simulation of the complicated wave deformation, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation has been developed recently and expanded properly for the current applications, which is able to simulate an accurate and direct WAve Structure Sandy seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D). LES-WASS-3D has been validated through the comparison with experimental results for limited cases, and has been used for the simulation of wave run-up on sandy beach, mean fluid flows over and around submerged structures and swash zone (alongshore/rip current), and spatial distribution of wave height in wide fluid regions. In addition, a strategy of efficient deployment ($Y/L_i=1.50{\sim}1.75$, $W/L_r=0.50$) of the submerged breakwaters has been discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.44-51
• /
• 1996

The accurate calculation of run-up heights of long waves along the coastline is important in the view of engineering. In this paper the run-up heights of long waves are estimated by using the cnoidal wave theory which also covers both sinusoidal and solitary waves. However, the generation and the calculation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves are difficult both in laboratory and numerical experiments. In this study, the maximum run-up heights of cnoidal waves on steep slopes are computed by using the boundary integral equation model. It has been shown that the run-up heights of cnoidal waves are less than those of solitary waves, while they are larger than those of sinusoidal waves having the same wavelengths and heights. The variation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves is not a monotonic function of the wavelength. However, the run-up heights of cnoidal waves asymptotically approach that of a solitary wave as the wavelength approaches infinity. The calculated run-up heights agreed reasonably with experimental data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.38-49
• /
• 2015

Past study of tsunami heavily relied on the numerical modelling using 2D Boussinesq Eq. and Solitary wave. Lately, based on the fact that numerically simulated run up heights based on solitary wave are somewhat smaller than the measured one, Leading Depression N (LDN) Wave has been elaborated, which can account the advancement of a shore line before tsunami strikes a shore. Thereafter it is reported that more accurate simulation can be possible once LDN is deployed. On the other hand, there were numerous reports indicating that stable LDN wave can't be sustained in the hydraulic model test. These conflicts between the hydraulic model tests and numerical results have their roots on the assumption made in the derivation of Boussinesq type wave model such as that wave nonlinearity is equally balanced with wave dispersiveness. Hence, in the numerical simulation based on the Boussinesq type wave model, wave dispersiveness is inevitably underestimated, especially in deep water. Based on this rationale, we developed the modified methodology for the generation of stable LDN wave in the 3D numerical wave flume, and proceeded to numerically analyze the depression effect of Hybrid Breaker on the run up height due to tsunami using the Navier Stoke Equation. The verification of newly proposed wave model in this study was carried out using the run up height from the hydraulic model test. It was shown that Hybrid Breaker consisting of three water chamber and slope at its front can reduce 13% of run up height for H = 5m, and 10% of run up height for H = 6m.

• Water for future
• /
• v.28 no.6
• /
• pp.159-168
• /
• 1995

The run-up and the evolution of solitary waves on steep beaches are investigated by using a two-dimensional boundary integral equation model. The model is first used to compute the run-up heights of solitary waves on a relatively mind slope. The model is verified by comparing the computed numerical solutions with available experimental data, other numerical solutions and approximated analytical solutions. The agreement between the present numerical solutions and the other data is found to be excellent. The model is then applied to the calculation of run-up heights on very steep slopes. As far as the maximum run-up of solitary waves is concerned, the boundary integral equation model provides reasonable and reliable solutions. Finally, the evolution on steep beaches is also examined and the obtained wave heights are compared with those calculated from the Green's law.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2007.05a
• /
• pp.592-596
• /
• 2007

본 연구에서는 구조물 전면에서 발생하는 권파와 그 이후 발생하는 처오름과 월파의 유속장을 계측하기 위하여 수리모형실험을 실시하였으며, 실험결과를 이용하여 월파의 유속분포를 나타내는 경험식을 제안하였다. 구조물 전면에서 내습파랑이 쇄파된 이후, 구조물을 월파하는 동안에 유체의 흐름은 넓은 연행기포의 지역을 형성하며 다위상(multiphase)상태가 된다. 쇄파에 의한 구조물 주위에서의 유체흐름 중 연행기포가 없는 영역의 유속 측정에는 입자화상유속계(particle image velocimetry, PIV)기법을, 연행기포 영역에서의 유속 측정에는 기포화상유속계(particle image velocimetry, BIV)기법을 적용하였다. 두 기법을 이용하여 측정된 유속장으로부터 구조물 주위에서의 쇄파, 처오름 및 월파시의 최대유속을 계측하였다. 구조물 위로 월파된 유체 흐름 분포는 비선형적인 특성을 보여주며, 시간별 최대유속은 주로 유체의 전면부에서 발생하는 것으로 나타났다. 또한 무차원화된 유속분포로부터 구조물 위에서의 월파시 유속분포가 자기상사성(self-similarity)을 갖는다는 것을 알 수 있었으며, 이를 이용하여 월파의 유속분포를 위한 실험적 경험식을 제시하였다.