• Bangmulgwan gwa yeongu (The National Museum of Korea Journal)
• /
• v.1
• /
• pp.174-197
• /
• 2024

Personal ornaments made from precious metals that have been excavated from tombs dating to the Maripgan period (4th-6th century) of the Silla Kingdom are a major subject of analysis in the study of gender and hierarchy among the tomb occupants. Nonetheless, bracelets had been neglected until Ha Daeryong's recent research on determining gender through bracelets attracted attention. Accordingly, an examination and organization of the fundamental elements of Silla bracelets was needed. In response, this paper examines their physical characteristics, appearance, changes over time, and related wearing practices. The data for this study is derived from 176 bracelets, mostly made from silver or gold. Copper and glass bracelets are also included. Many of them were cast in a single-use earthen mold. Even the notched and protruding designs were created by casting rather than carving. Glass bracelets and bracelets with dragon designs were made using molds with round cavities. Excluding those produced using metal sheets, the rest of the bracelets are thought to have been cast in a mold with a long-string-shaped cavity and then bent round. After being bent, the two ends were either soldered together (closed type) or left open (open type). As demonstrated in the study by Lee Hansang, Silla bracelets evolved from plain rounded rod-shaped bracelets, such as the one excavated from the Northern Mound of Hwangnamdaechong Tomb, to versions with notched designs, and eventually to those with protruding designs, which gained popularity by the sixth century. The precedents of plain rounded rod-shaped bracelets are presumed to have been thin rod-shaped bracelets from the Proto-Three Kingdoms period. Bracelets need to be fit to the wrists so that they do not slip off easily when worn. The open type design was the preferable way to achieve this. Moreover, given the ductility of gold, silver, and copper, it seems that it would have been possible to stretch or deform them. In the end, I concluded that even if a bracelet is too small to pass man's hand, the open type could have been worn. Furthermore, if a closed-type bracelet were pressed into an oval shape, it would not be impossible for a man to put it on. When bracelets are divided according to their degree of deformability into type A (the open type) through type D, which is almost impossible to deform, type A is commonly found with wearers of thin hollow earrings, and types C and D (which are difficult to deform) are not found with wearers of thin hollow earrings, but only with wearers of thick hollow earrings. Therefore, it can be seen that men were allowed to wear bracelets, and the existing studies that differentiate between men and women based on the wearing of thin hollow earrings, thick hollow earrings, and swords remain valid.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
• /
• 2003.09a
• /
• pp.25-26
• /
• 2003

본 연구는 고려중기이후부터 조선시대에 왕이하 서인에 이르기까지 착용하였던 철릭에 대한 것이다. 철릭의 형태는 상하가 연결되고 허리에 주름이 잡혀 있으며, 소매는 단추로 떼었다 붙였다 할 수 있도록 되어 있다. 연구는 문헌자료를 중심으로 조선시대 착장자의 신분과 용도를 살피고, 단국대학교 석주선 기념박물관에 소장된 출토유물 중 측정이 가능한 68점을 실측하여 바느질법과 특징을 분석하였다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.1 s.110
• /
• pp.50-65
• /
• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of Korean Medical classics
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.193-200
• /
• 2008

재전통의학이론상일반운용'토법'적주요목표이병인화병위양종분류인식하거적(在전統의학理논上一般운用'吐法'的主要目표以病因和病位양종分류인식下去的). 관우병인의미착직접토출격상(관于病因意味着직接吐出膈上), 위완적담음숙식지인착오적섭식지유독지물(胃脘的痰음宿食지因錯오的섭食之有毒之物), 관우병위가이설(관于病位可以설), '기고자(其高者), 인이월지'적'기고자'시지상완(因而越之'的'其高者'是指上脘), 격상적유형실사(膈上的有形실邪). 장자화재 "유문사친"상설"일토지중(장子和在"儒門事親"上설"一吐之中), 변태무궁(변태无궁), 루용루험(屢用屢험), 이지불의(以지不疑)", 몰구완격담식혹비교고적병위(沒拘脘膈痰食或比較高的病位). 이차통과흔다임상경험(而且通과흔多임床경험), '토법(吐法)'능취득료타개현부이발산피부적청양(能取得了打개玄府而발散皮부的淸양), 타개하초(打개下焦), 천착장중적옹체(穿着腸中的壅滯), 통조수도(通조水道), 단절수지상원(단絶水之上源), 접통울체(接通울滯), 피상행진기(被上行진기), 접통관객(接通관객), 교류상하적(交流上下的) 음양(陰陽), 교제심신(交제心신), 조절병교제수화(조절병交제水火), 창달기기(창달기기), 접통경락혈맥등적성효(接通경絡血맥等的成效). 인차타확장료'토법'적치료범위(因此他擴장了'吐法'的治료范圍). 본논문관우장씨적'토법'(本논文관于장氏的'吐法'), 개념(槪念), 방법급종류(方法及종류), 규율(규律), 통토적치료기전(通吐的治료기전), 금기(禁忌), 조선적방면래진행정리(조宣的方面래진行整理), 보고(報告).