• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2016

Gutnori(ritual A Comparative Study on Shaman's Costume of south coast Byeolsingut in Korea and the Guizhou Nahui in China play) refers to a play in the form of showing actual appearance of god and actual comedic gag with gutguri rhythm. In order to carry out a comparison between the shaman's costume in Korea and China, this study will delve into the types of shaman costumes that are worn in the gutnoris(mask plays) performed in Korean guts and those of China performed in Nahui. As research method, literature reviews and field surveys have been conducted concurrently. In terms of literature reviews, previous research have been studied centrally. For field surveys, Korean gut, Byeolsingut performance was observed for 2 days 1 night between 1st Feb. 2014-2nd Feb. 2014 in the south coast and Chinese Nahui in Guizhou was observed for 2 days 1 night between 25th Nov. 2014-26th Nov. 2014. By comparing Shaman's costume that is worn in Korean shamanism with that of Chinese shamanism as a partial means of understanding the uniqueness of Korean shaman's costume, the following conclusion was derived upon focusing on the common types of gutnori costumes and organizing them. As a universal trait for shaman's costumes in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, traditional clothing were worn. A unique trait for shaman's costume in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, deity expressions were shown in both cases using colors.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.111-124
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• 2015

This study inferred the symbolism of shaman's costume in China from shamanism and types of shaman's costume in Naje, Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong, China through field survey. Shamanism in China has complicated aspects due to negotiations with other culture for a long time while maintaining its own consistency based on ethnicity. Symbolism of shaman's costume in Naje, Guiju-seong, China is observed as follows. First, the shaman's costume in China appears differently from every Jangcha in relation to the position of god appearing in Jangcha when Tolosa takes the position of god as a symbol of sex and god. In Naje of China, the most important shaman's costume indicating the position of god has a unique mask for every deity. It communicates that Tolosa wearing a costume appropriate for the god of wine shall become the god in that Jangcha. Second, the shaman's costume in China has something to do with Yin-Yang and the five elements theory of Taoism as a symbol of shamanism visio of the universe and system of reason. Most of Tolosas hosting Naje are men but dress up as women by wearing Nagun looking like a skirt. Nagun is usually red, the color of Yang, which symbolizes that by wearing such costume that takes color of Yang, Tolosa expels an ominous thing by balancing yin and yang and taking god's strong power. Third, Tolosa takes an eight-breadth Nagun, as a symbol of people. An eight-breadth worn by Tolosa in Naje strengthens the spirit of union and fight of the Tujia nationality who live in Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong through folk legends. In this course, a symbolic meaning of the national spirit has been provided on an eight-breadth Nagun, a shaman's costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.124-140
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• 2023

This study analyzes traditional women's Hu costumes of the Tang dynasty, and deploys a creative fashion design to converge contemporary and traditional styles. In this costume, women wear a robe with striped or plain patterns in the lower part of the pants, and it appears frequently in red and yellow colors. Depending on the sleeve, it is either a round collar or a turn down collar robe. In the Hu hat, the huntuomao and juanyanxumao were leather and mili and weimao were used to prevent the sand from flowing. This study uses the CLO 3D program with the "moment" theme based on the Hu costume for women to deploy 4 pairs of fashion design and to produce works for 2 pairs. The 3D virtual clothing program demonstrates important effects in design deployment and pattern arrangement through its efficiency and convenience of clothing production. The CLO 3D program was closely combined with the 2D design and the 3D affect, and it heightened the efficiency in saving the processing time and energy of the sample clothes. Through facilitating the 3D digital fashion design, the production may reduce time needed and contribute to an effective economy, and it may compare digital fashion design to actual products as well as illustrate the potential of digital fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.455-476
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to develop Jiangxi Nuo masks using 3D digital fashion design technology and suggest various ways to utilize traditional culture based on the characteristics of Nuo masks, a traditional Chinese artifact of intangible cultural significance. The researchers conducted a literature review to gather information about Nuo culture and masks that could represent Jiangxi. Features of the masks were analyzed and classified. The result are as follows. First, the symbolic characteristics of Jiangxi's Nuo masks can be divided into those based on their origin and history, the user's social status, and the notions of primitive beliefs of the chosen people, such as naturism and totemism. Second, Nuo masks' splendid decorations convey meanings such as luck, the bixie, longevity, wealth, and peace in the family. Third, playfulness in mask-making is about dismantling the original form of the mask, re-creating it through application. Fourth, the masks express primitiveness mostly by conserving the wood's original color or material. The initial masks carved to represent images of figures aptly deliver the primitive forms and images of Nuo culture. In this study, Nuo masks were developed and produced using the 3D digital technology CLO 3D by adopting the expressive characteristics and applying design methods such as asymmetricity, exaggeration, and modification. The results of this study demonstrate the possibility of creating diverse as well as economical designs through the reduction of production.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.74-85
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• 1997

폴 푸아레 (1879-1944)가 패션 역사상 혁명적이라고 할 수 있는 여성의 코르셋을 제거시켰다는 것은 익히 알려진 사실이다. 그리고 그러한 결과로 인해 발생된 새로운 직선형의 실루엣에 화려한 색채와 장식을 하여 이전 시대와는 전혀 다른 현대패션의 근원이 되었다. 본 연구는 푸아레의 새로운 직선 실루엣과 화려한 색채와 경이적 장식의 근원이 다름아닌 동양이라는데 중점을 두었다. 이미 국내의 몇편의 논문에서 이러한 논의가 지적되어 왔으나 다른 논제를 다루는 중에 언급이 되었고 당시의 작품이나 동시대의 자료를 분석한 것이 아닌 근래의 출판물에 의존한 연구가 대부분이었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 그의 동양풍 디자인의 근원을 밝히는데 있어 가능한한 1 차적 자료의 접근을 시도하였다. 1912년 작품인 이브닝 드레스, 터번, 숄, 구두 각 1점과 그의 작품 의도와 생애의 추구를 말해주는 자서전(1930년 불어본 및 1931년 영어본)과 보그(Vogue)지의 기사(1920년 2월호, 9월호) 등을 통하여 그의 동양에 대한 관심을 살펴보았다. 그 결과 푸아레의 동양 영향의 근원은 19세기 말 유럽에서 절정을 이룬 'Sino-Japonism'(중국-일본주의)의 심취, 러시아 발레단의 의상과 색채, 천일야화의 영향에 의한 중동(페르시아)에 대한 열망, 그리고 인도 토민병의 복식에서 비롯된 터번에의 매료 등이었음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 근원에서 탄생된 디자인으로는 직선형의 튜닉, 기모노 소매(처음엔 푸아레 자신도 중국의 것으로 혼동을 하기도 했지만), 하렘팬츠, 비대칭적인 카프탄식의 코트, 원색의 사용, 극동지역의 직물과 문양, 술장식, 터번 등으로 나타내었다. 따라서 폴 푸아레의 동양적인 관심은 단지 개인적 '취향 혹은 취미(taste)'가 아니라 한 시대양식으로 자리잡은 '동양주의(Orientalism)'라 할 수 있으며 이러한 푸아레의 동양주의는 당시의 패션에 있어 신체의 선을 부정하여 코르셋을 제거 시키게한 그의 모더니즘의 근거가 된다. 본연구의 제한점으로 1차적 자료를 수집하는데에 있어 보다 폭넓지 못했던 점을 밝혀둔다.

• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.145-157
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• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.

• 복식
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• 제60권3호
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• pp.66-83
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• 2010

Huafu is the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese as the significant cultural symbol of Chinese civilization. The resuscitation of Huafu is an exemplification for the pride of a nation, due to China's rapid economic development and a craze for Chinese cultures. Huafu's resuscitation is not only introducing the traditional design factors of Huafu into the contemporary fashion but also reflects the image of Chinese style created to modernize works. Through the study of the history of Huafu, it could be summarized that Ruqun(Zu-chin), Shenyi(Shen-yee), and Shan were the most important and typical types. The characteristics of Huafu were primary colors or strong contrast with achromatic colors, flora and fauna patterns, and geometric patterns. The clothing aesthetic of Huafu could be summed up as spacious, delicate, gorgeous, clandestine, and unconventional character. There were lots of elements in Huafu that could provide inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, such as forms, colors, patterns, details, and also the aesthetic. Based on the analysis of the Chinese designers who applied the elements of Huafu into contemporary fashion design, it could be recognized that the Chinese designer's works were made using the elements of traditional Huafu directly or using new fabrics and techniques to give a modern sense, but also embodies the Huafu's clothing aesthetic at the same time. In the wake of the resuscitation and publicity of Huafu, the essential factors of Huafu will be able to provide inspiration for designers not only for Chinese but also around the world.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.108-132
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• 2021

The objective of this study is to develop and present the modern men's hip-hop fashion designs using the design elements of Hanfu which is a traditional culture of China as a motif by applying the SCAMPER technique. In the research methods, this study conducted the literature review and work production. In the process of work development, first, after setting up the concept, a design map was produced. Second, the characteristics of hip-hop fashion style and the design elements of Hanfu were organized. Third, this study developed the hip-hop fashion designs reinterpreting the design elements of Hanfu into modern hip-hop styles by applying the SCAMPER conception list. Fourth, Fourth, of the developed designs, the finally decided upon designs were produced into real six articles, which included a T-shirt, shirt, zippered sweater, jumper, denim jacket, long jumper, denim pants, baggy pants, and short pants. This study offers the possibility of developing Chinese hip-hop fashion design targeting the emerging Chinese hip-hop fashion market by suggesting hip-hop fashion designs with the characteristics of Chinese traditional culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1090-1111
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• 2010

Thanks to both developments in various media such as the internet and TV and China's economic growth, the fashion market in China has gain a lot of attention by global businesses as a newly-raised spending market. Fashion companies in Korea have entered into the china since the late 1990s. For them to get competitive edges, they have to differentiate their brand by creating new design based on the culture becoming mega-trend in fashion market. So in this research, I try to create fashion designs based on Hallyu Stars' fashion styles and images, who come on as a new culture code in China and other Asian. For this, I conducted theological consideration on what the Hallyu is, and looked into fashion styles in soft dramas which 5 Hallyu Stars started in and street fashion in Shanghai in China. Based on the outcomes of analysis, I figured out those star's fashion style and created products targeting young generation born after 1980s in China. The conclusion of this study is as follows. Firstly, the very definition of Hallyu which can be described as a phenomenon in which Korean movies, soap operas, and pop music have become immensely popular throughout Asia.has been expanding to signify the proliferation of Korean culture as a whole. Secondly, having selected the 5 female stars representing Hallyu, we were able to analyze and categorize their fashion styles on the basis of their music videos, movies, and soap-operas. Thirdly, In order to explore the level of influence of Hallyu fashion industry, we studied the street fashion of Shanghai The result was that we could observe both the slim and feminine cool casual style and the cute and affectionate pretty casual style simultaneously.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to provide data to enable the development of skateboarding pants. From the Chinese skateboard club SNS, 126 skateboarders in their 20s and 30s were chosen to participate in a survey. Data was gathered using a questionnaire from May 14 to May 28, 2021, and then analyzed using SPSS 23. The results concerning production were as follows: clothing sizes are generally divided into six stages: XS, S, M, L, XL, and 2XL. The silhouette is wide, and most pants have e-bands and normal hems. The pants are made from cotton-blend fabric, which is mostly moisture-absorbing and quick-drying. Baggy pants are preferred by skateboarders, with cotton being the most common fabric. The crotch, knees, and buttocks of pants are the least satisfying for skateboarders. When they skateboard, their ankles sustain the most injuries, followed by their knees and wrists. In the survey of consumers' preferences for skateboarding pants, different styles were rated in the following order: straight pant silhouette, ribbed knit and string waistband design; full-rise waist height, string hemline design; and ankle-high pants length (fit), fabric and design. The hygroscopicity and ventilation of the fabric are crucial considerations when purchasing pants. In terms of color, chromatic and pastel colors are most popular. In addition, some people expect new fibers to be used and expect protective equipment and pants to be integrated.