• Title/Summary/Keyword: 전통 직물

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Analysis of the Three Dimensional Shape of Korean Hanbok Chima according to the Characteristics of Fabrics using 3-D Human Body Measuring System (3차원 인체계측시스템을 이용한 직물의 물정에 따른 한복치마의 입체형상 분석)

  • Park, Soonjee;Machiko Miyoshi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.9
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    • pp.1571-1582
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    • 2001
  • 한국 전통 의상인 한복 치마의 형태는 천의 특성에 크게 좌우된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 직물의 물성과 착장시 한복 치마 형태의 관계를 규명하고자, 8가지 직물을 선택하여 물성을 측정하고, 비접촉 3차원 인체계측시스템을 이용하여 , 치마 착장시의 5개 수평단면, 2개 수직단면을 작성하였다. 수직 단면에서는 실루엣을 나타내는 각도, 수평단면에서는 단면의 부피감과 드레이프의 형태를 나타내는 노드 간격, 거리, 각도를 측정하였다. 첫째, 경연도, 신장률, 실 두께, 직물 무게의 직물물성요인에 따라 실험 직물은 4집단으로 분류되었다. 둘째, 직물의 물성과 노드의 형태의 관계를 살펴본 결과, 직물이 뻣뻣하고 가벼울수록, 치마윗부분의 각도가 커지며 , 부드럽고, 신축성 이 있고, 무겁고, 두꺼운 실로 짜여지면, 튜블러 형태 의 실루엣을 나타내었다. 셋째 , 수직 단면도상 치마 위쪽과 아래쪽의 퍼짐각도 및 수평단면상의 둘레, 노드간의 거리, 가장 긴 파고와 같은 단면 계측치는 직물물성에 따라 추정 이 가능한 것으로 나타났다.

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Damage Characteristics of Korean Traditional Textiles by Acetaldehyde (아세트알데하이드에 의한 전통직물의 손상 특성)

  • Kim, Myoung Nam;Lim, Bo A;Lee, Sun Myung
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.32 no.3
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    • pp.321-331
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    • 2016
  • Textiles damage caused by acetaldehyde($CH_3CHO$) is not clear as compared to other materials. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyed with 4 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to $CH_3CHO$ gas in the test chamber. First, textile specimens' damage by differert concentration of acetaldehyde(0.1, 0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500, 1000 ppm) was tested. Second, accelerared damage to the textile specimens were tested according to the temperature and humidity conditions at the damage levels. Third, damage of deliberately degraded textile specimens were examined at the damage levels. After the exposure, optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out. As a result, at 1000 ppm/day, the color difference of cotton_yellow has increased. At the condition of $25^{\circ}C-80%$, $30^{\circ}C-50%$, $30^{\circ}C-80%$, the color difference of yellow specimens has increased and grey scale rating has decreased. At $30^{\circ}C-80%$, acetate of cotton_undyed increased and the pH of silk_undyed decreased. In the case of deliberately degraded textile specimens, actetate concentration of black specimens increased. In conclusion, damage to the traditional fabric by acetaldehyde is not impact. However, it is expected that yellow specimens will be bleach and black specimens' actetate concentration will be increase.

Relationship between Physical Properties and Sensibility Obtained from the Rustling Sounds of Silk Fabrics and Their Transformed Colors (실크 직물의 스치는 소리와 변환된 색채의 물리량과 감성간의 관계)

  • 김춘정;최계연;김수아;조길수
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • 2001.11a
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    • pp.1-4
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구에서는 실크 직물 7종의 마찰음을 녹음한 후, 색채 변환시켜 소리와 변환색채에 e한 감성을 평가함으로써 시각과 청각을 만족시킬 수 있는 의류소재 개발에 대한 기초자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 피험자 30명을 대상으로 소리와 변환색채를 차례로 제공한 후 감성을 평가하도록 하였다. 물리량은 소리의 경우 LPT, $\Delta$L, $\Delta$f, ARC를 색채의 경우 RP, GP, BP, CC를 계산하여 감성과의 관계를 조사하였다. 소리와 색채에 대한 감성차원으로는 '우아함', '활동감', '터프함'의 세요인이 도출되었다. 각 감성차원에 대한 소리와 색채 물리량과의 관계를 살펴보면, LPT와 $\Delta$L이 작을수록, 홍색비율이 크고 색채빈도수가 적을수록 우아함차원으로 평가하였으며, LPT와 $\Delta$L의 값이 클수록, 녹색비율이 크고 색채빈도수가 많을수록 활동감차원으로 평가하였다. 또한 ARC값이 작을수록, 홍색비율이 클수록 터프함차원으로 나타났다. 직물별 소리와 색채에 대한 선호도는 전통적인 수자직 직물이 가장 높게 나타났다.

Physical factors Affecting Sound Sensation for Korean Traditional Silk Fabrics with Similar Sound Pressure Levels (유사 음압 전통 견직물의 소리 감각에 영향을 미치는 물리적 요인)

  • Cho Su-Min;Cho Gil-Soo;Yi Eun-Jou
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.39-48
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    • 2006
  • This study was carried out to investigate sound sensation of Korean traditional silk fabrics with similar sound pressure levels (SPL) and to identify secondary physical factors excluding SPL which determine sound sensation of the fabrics. Sounds of the silk fabrics tended to be perceived differently from one another as for some of sensation such as clearness ant roughness. They were felt more strongly in aspects of loudness, roughness, and highness than of softness, sharpness, clearness, and pleasantness. Subjective clearness, roughness, and highness were significantly correlated with some of sound parameters including roughness(z), ${\Delta}L,\;and\;{\Delta}f$. Especially, both of clearness and roughness which were varied among the fabrics were found as determined by ${\Delta}L$. This result means that ${\Delta}L$ as well as roughness(z) and ${\Delta}f$ could be utilized secondary to SPL in order to satisfy some of human sensibility for sound from traditional silk fabrics without variation of physical loudness.

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Dyeing of Silk and Ramie Fabric with Natural Dye(1) - The traditional dyeing method of safflower - (천연 염료에 의한 견 및 모시 염색(1) - 전통 방법에 의한 홍화 염색 -)

  • 정인모;우순옥
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.37 no.2
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    • pp.161-166
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    • 1995
  • Safflower is natural red dye largely used for dyeing on protein and cellulose fabric. It contains safflower yellow and carthamin red. Safflower yellow is water-soluble dye, while carthamin red is soluble in alkaline condition. Therefore the former was extracted by cold water. Cartamon obtained by adding acidic solution to carthamin red shows the original hue of safflower. In this study, the condition of extraction with bean stem ash solution and dyeing behavior of carthamon in safflower were examined by using the traditional dyeing method. The relationship between the dye-uptake(K/S) of silk and ramie fabric and the various extractions and dyeing conditions was investigated.

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Preparing Bi-component Dye of Unripe Diospyros kaki THUNB. Fruit and Ecklonia cava and Investigating Its Dyeing Propeties on Fabric (풋감과 감태의 이성분 복합염료 제조와 섬유 염색성 고찰)

  • Sarmandakh, Badmaanyambuu;Kim, Chunjeong;Yi, Eunjou
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.525-531
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    • 2018
  • This paper proposes a bi-component dye, including the unripe fruit of Diospyros kaki THUNB and Ecklonia cava, to substitute for traditional persimmon dyeing because fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffer and natural persimmon is insufficient for dyeing. This study examined the color difference and fabric stiffness depending on the ratio of Ecklonia cava for in a one-bath dye solution with Diospyros kaki THUNB and showed that 6% of Ecklonia cava in the bi-component dye was the optimum for decreasing the fabric stiffness. Based on these results, a bi-component dye constituting of 94% Diospyros kaki THUNB and 6% Ecklonia cava was prepared. The particle size was found to be smaller than both single dyes and it maintained a similar amount of Catechin to Diospyros kaki THUNB dye. Finally, cotton fabric dyed with a bi-component dye was much improved in terms of the fabric hand and the surface color was similar to that of the traditional persimmon-dyed fabric. These results could help to develop the natural persimmon dyeing industry.

Analysis on Red-colored Dyeing by using Non-destructive UV-visible and Fluorescence Spectrophotometry (비파괴 자외-가시 및 형광 분광 분석법을 이용한 적색계 전통 염료 분석)

  • Yun, Eunyoung;Kim, Yuran
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.12
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    • pp.9-17
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    • 2011
  • This study examined non-destructive UV-Vis spectrophotometry as well as 3-D fluorescence spectrophotometry of textile that made use of red dye such as Sappan wood, madder, Safflower, Gromwell. The authors produced two textile specimen that were dyed by not only two kinds of textile (cotton and silk) but also three kinds of mordanting (no-mordanting, alumen and iron), and they investigated effects of each dye material upon investigation results. At analysis with UV-Vis spectrophotometry of dyed textile specimen, dyeing made by sappan wood, madder and gromwell had significant difference depending upon mardant regardless of kinds of textile, and safflower had no significant difference depending upon textile and mordant. At analysis with 3D-fluorescence spectrophotometry, specimen dyed with sappan wood had difference with mordants, and with madder, there were difference with textiles, and safflower had inherent fluorescence spectrum regardless of textiles and mordants, while gromwell had no fluorescence spectrum.

Analysis of Pattern for Indonesian Traditional Textile Design (인도네시아 전통직물 디자인의 패턴 분석)

  • Koo Hee-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.83-94
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    • 2005
  • This paper is to analyze patterns for Indonesian traditional textiles. Ikat is the resist-dyeing process in which designs are reserved in warp or weft yams by tying off small bundles of threads with fiber resists to prevent the penetration of dye. Batik is the technique applying a wax resist before dyeing to form a pattern in negative. Ikat and batik are the most renowned textile arts of Indonesia. Patterns are classified as geometric pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern. Also this paper discusses the origins of ikat and batik. Therefore this Paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of ikat and batik patterns. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive pattern design for Indonesian textile market.

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