• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1047-1058
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• 2009

Japanism represents a Japanese sense presented in Collections by many world-class western designers who are inspired by Japanese Kimonos. This study analyzes how the traditional Japanese costumes were applied to the modern clothing and the mix and match style appeared at the Japanism fashion based on the Fashion Collections during the three years from the spring of 2006 to the winter of 2008. The analysis was performed based on preceding studies, literature, fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, and the Collections during the three years. The results of this study on Japanism covers: the application of Kimono design, Kimono sleeves, Kimono neck line to coats, jackets, one-pieces, and blouses; the application of traditional geometrical patterns, flower patterns, and natural patterns. These patterns were presented by print, dyeing, and embroidery; lastly, the employment, utilization, function, and adjustment of Obi(belt) to Japanese style clothing and also to modern clothing. Japanism fashion presented sportism, feminism, and eroticism by using mix and match. This analysis can contribute to the application of the ethnic clothing to modern clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.151-166
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• 2013

This study aims to shed light on the diversity and complexity of design represented through modern fashion and to identify growth opportunities for globalizing and modernizing traditional clothing designs. To this end, formative trends and aesthetic characteristics of $21^{st}$ century fashion were analyzed, with an emphasis on Japanism reflected in the works of Western designers. The research methodology consisted of an analysis as well as a literature review. A total of 217 designs with Japanism characteristics were identified from the 2001 S/S collection to the 2011 S/S collection in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, and these were analyzed in terms of image, color details, pattern, and accessories. The research findings with regard to the characteristics of modern fashion designs that reflect Japanism were as follows. First, sensuality was projected by highlighting the erotic elements of Japanese clothing. Second, the underlying principles, styles, and elements of Japan's traditional clothing were embodied in a cross-cultural and eclectic manner that blurred the boundaries between styles by mix-and- matching the traditional and the contemporary, the East and the West, and different styles. Third, a variety of patterns, colors, accessories, and design techniques associated with Japanese traditional clothing played a critical role in creating flamboyant and decorative images in contemporary fashion. Fourth, the overlapping of the kimono style, the flat design that accentuates body curves, and the layered style has created a beautifully free-form fashion that demonstrates non-structural features.