• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2002년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술발표대회
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• pp.65-66
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• 2002

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권8호
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.

• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.113-121
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the types and characteristics of wedding ceremony robes in the Jeju area from the 1950's to the 1980's. The analysis used 413 wedding pictures. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The following are the propotion of robe types used wedding ceremonies. 1.0% of Danryeong & Jangot, 6.5% of Danryeong & Wonsam, 1.5% of Danryeong & Chima+Jegori, 2.7% of Durumaki & Chima+Jegori, 24.7% of suit & Chima+Jegori and 63.7% of suit & wedding dress from the 1950's to the 1980's. 2. The Korean-style robes gradually decreased from the 1950's, and disappeared in the 1970's. The Chima+Jegori was introduced in the 1950's, reached its peak in the 1960's and its popularity continued to the 1970's. In the 1980's, after the Korean-style robes disappeared, the western ceremony robes were used in all the ceremonies. 3. After the Western-style robes, in which a bride wears a wedding dress, was introduced in the 1960's, its usage rapidly increased in the 1970's and is still popular today.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권9호
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1424-1435
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• 2002

This study is about women's veils from Chosen period housed in various museums and see how they reflect the escalating inequality between the two sexes based on Confucianism and its social ramifications including the strict rules that kept women from freely communicating or staying in same quarters with men from tender age. I first visited various museums to see what kind of veils they had in their collections and then looked at reproductions, museum catalogues, and other studies to get a better understanding of the designs, colors, and fabrics of the veils in each collection and came to following conclusions:. 1. I looked at 26 veils of 7 different sues both in person and in museum catalogues, and they included a Neouls,3 Myunsas, l2Jahngots,4 Chuneuis,1 Sahkgat 3Junmos, and 1 Garima. Various documents attest to the existence of one more style of veil,1. e. skirt-shaped veil, but there was no specimen of the type. 2. Museums had various types of veils for women, but most of them dated from late Chosun period. 3. Female veils in Chosun period had dearly-defined characteristics depending on their wearers. Each type had its own fabric color, and form, so one could tell the status of the wearer just by looking at it 4. The veils that I found at museums around the country had following characteristics: . Neoul was worn by high-class women and it covered up the face better than other types of veils. Myunsa was also caned Myunsapo, and it featured brilliant gold foils to mark the salted status of the wearer. Jahngot was originally a robe for both sexes but it turned into a type of veil for low-class females in late am period and there were more Jangots in museum collections than my other type of veils. Chuneui has various styles and it has a cotton lining so low-class women wore it to both cover the face and to stay worn Sahkgat was worn by low-class women for its convenience. Junmo was elaborately decorated and showy, and it was worn by courtesans. Garima was worn by courtesans or professional women in medicine, and unlike other type of veils, it showed the face of the wearer.

• 복식
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• 제67권1호
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.76-98
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• 2023

국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》(덕수6375)에 묘사된 남녀 등장인물의 복식을 분석하고 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 추정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 주인공 노신랑은 <전안례도>와 <교배례도>에서는 평소 관원으로 착용하던 흑단령을 착용하였다. 그 외 <헌수례도>와 <접빈도>, <중뢰연도>에서는 패영 없는 자립에 옥색 포, 홍색 세조대를 둘렀다. 기럭아범은 자립에 귀 옆에 묶은 패영을 달고 흉배를 부착한 무문 흑단령을 착용하였다. 성인 남자 자손과 하객들은 도포 등 당시의 대표적인 포 종류를 착용하였는데 특히 무관으로 추정되는 인물들은 철릭, 직령을 착용하고 붉은 색 띠와 청색 계통의 띠를 신분에 맞추어 착용하였다. 징씨(徵氏) 등 안내자는 중치막과 홍단령을 착용하였으며 어린 동자들과 시동(侍童)은 중치막을 착용하였다. 술을 따르고 음식을 나르는 총각들은 땋은 머리에 소창의(小氅衣)를 입고 성인들은 전립(氈笠)에 소창의를 착용하였다. 군영 소속의 세악수들은 소색 소창의에 흑색 전복, 그리고 허리에 남색 포대 등 군복을 착용하였다. 둘째, 노신부는 <교배례도>에서는 거두미와 초록원삼 차림을 하였고 <헌수연도>에서는 남치마·옥색저고리 차림이 확인되었다. 여자 자손들은 어여머리에 비녀와 반자, 진주댕기 등의 칠보장식을 하였고 다양한 색상의 저고리에 남색과 홍색, 옥색 등의 치마를 입었다. 남치마에 초록 장옷을 입은 부인도 확인되었다. 홍치마에 초록색 회장저고리를 입은 <교배례도>의 동녀(童女) 4명은 낭자머리에 비녀 꽂고 도다익 댕기를 길게 드리웠으며 칠보족두리를 썼다. 비자(婢子)들은 어여머리에 가리마를 썼으며 양반 부인들과 유사한 치마·저고리를 착용하였으나 색상이 연했고 치마의 길이가 짧았으며 치마의 부풀림 정도가 약하였다. 기녀는 양반 부인과 비슷한 모습이었으나 색상이 덜 화려하였으며 어여머리에는 칠보장식이 없었다. 셋째, 주인공의 자립 착용, 철릭과 직령을 입은 하객들, 군영 소속 세악수 참여 등에 근거하여 회혼례의 주인공이 병조나 군영과 관련된 인물이었을 가능성을 제시하였으며 군영 악대의 전복의 소매 길이와 잠화 사용, 어여머리의 형태와 댕기, 저고리의 길이와 치마의 부풀린 형태 등에 근거하여 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 1760년대~1780년대로 추정하였다.