• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.106-122
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• 2021

This study confirmed the mechanical properties of an auxetic re-entrant pattern prepared using 3D printing technology and its composite fabric with neoprene for the production of functional auxetic patterns/textiles for safety shoes. Samples were prepared by the tilt angle of a re-entrant pattern of 0°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90°, and then analyzed using Poisson's ratio, bending, compression, and tensile properties. A 3D printed auxetic re-entrant pattern (3DP-RE) and its composite fabric (3DP-RE/NP) showed a negative Poisson's ratio in all tilting angles that indicated auxetic properties. The results of the bending property shown that strength of 3DP-RE/NP was 1.5 times lower than NP, but the strain improved 2.0 times. It was confirmed that the deformation of 3DP-RE/NP is possible with a low load. Each sample type of compression behavior indicated similar regardless of the tilting angles; in addition, the compression toughness of 3DP-RE/NP increased 1.2 times compared with NP. In the case of tensile properties, 3DP-RE and 3DP-RE/NP were affected by the tilting angle, samples with 90° (the opposite of load direction) showed best tensile property and toughness. 3DP-RE/NP indicated improved bending, compression, and tensile properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.139-152
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• 2023

Despite efforts to apply 3D print (3DP) technology in the field of fashion and endless discussions about the possibility of future development, in reality, it is difficult to utilize 3DP technology in fashion for reasons related to material, technology, and cost constraints. The purpose of this study was to supplement the limitations of 3DP technology in order to promote its utilization in fashion and simultaneously find a solution to achieve aesthetic satisfaction in the design method. Specifically, through the development of fashion products with a 3DP polymer-fabric structure to which the parametric design methodology has been applied, this study explored the possibility of practical application and proposes a new 3DP fashion design method. The 3DP polymer-fabric developed as a result of the research was stably adhered to the fabric. Additionally, the study confirmed the possibility of making 3DP clothes that are amenable to the wearer's activities, as it was verified that cutting and sewing tailored to the human body's curvature and structure can be performed. The design process using the 3DP polymer-fabric presented in this study is meaningful in that it suggests a solution to complement the limitations of modern technology in connection with designers' creativity. Moreover, the design process presented in this study is expected to contribute to the commercialization and generalization of 3DP by providing practical help to allow fashion experts to utilize 3DP technology.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.199-208
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• 1998

This study forecasts the trend of ethnic theme through market survey, concentrating on Los Angeles market. First, the background of ethnic theme was examined, and the present situation of shops, department sores, and headquarter was also surveyed. After that, fashion trend suitable for market was suggested by analyzing the life style of consumers through zip code. The results of the study are as follows. The conspicuous trend of '97 F/W retail stores is ethnic. This reaction to complicated modern life, and symbolizes the desirable evaluation on the simpleness of basic life and nature. The model of ethnic design is identified in natural clothing, primitive arts, ethnic culture and African theme. In short, this ethnic fashion is expressed as simpleness, naturalism convenience and freedom. On the other hand, the standard of general department stores such as Broadway and Robinson May which are the headquarter of this trend is to satisfy various consumers with various styles. Ethnic goods from Broadway has not arrived at the top for its introducing step. To elevate sales of these goods, promotion through VMD and suggesting various ethnic goods should be done. Besides, when analyzing the consumers of Beverly center Broadway, the target of these goods are mostly professional young people in their 25-34 and 35-44. The life style of these people emphasizes sophisticated life in aspects such as job-oriented activities, and up-to-date fashion. Especially, image is very important. They want individuality different from others. These images are diversified from simpleness, naiveness to sexy character. Accordingly, suggesting fashion trend satisfying the demand of consumers through market survey will make fashion market create infinite possibilities.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.44
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• pp.343-372
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• 2016

This paper introduces symbols from Ghana, the 'Adinkra', and expands upon the concepts associated with it. In other words, the world view, values and scalability that appear to form philosophical thoughts in everyday life. 'Adinkra' are symbols from Ghana in West Africa. Adinkra means 'goodbye' or 'farewell'. There are some 400 Adinkra symbols, but the meanings of the symbols have been lost. The first book on Adinkra is 'The Adinkra Dictionary' (1998) by W. Bruce Willis. Adinkra is related to the Ghanaian culture, and represents concepts such as philosophical ideology, history, historical figures, myths, legends, animals, plants, etc. In the old days, because of its meaning-'goodbye' or 'farewell'-Adinkra was generally used for funerals. But today, Adinkra is utilized in a full range of cultural events and activities. Each of the 'Adinkra' has various meanings. According to Willis, Adinkra is ever-evolving and constantly expanding. As a matter of fact, Adinkra continues to expand, evolve and develop. Nevertheless, no books have been published on Adinkra since Bruce Willis (5 May 2016 to the present). Adinkra provides insights into the rich philosophical, educational, and historical significance of Africa. Therefore, Adinkra requires evolution, expansion, and research. In this study, we will examine the Adinkra, divided into four categories. The first is related to God and the powers, the second is related to moral education. The third symbolizes 'love' and 'friendship'. and lastly, the fourth is 'life' and 'death'.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.44
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• pp.239-281
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• 2016

This article explores the fate of futurism not only by tracing the entire process from the birth and decline of Russian futurism in the early 20th century and the so-called "Korean futurism" in the early 21st century, but also by delving into how their characteristics were shaped. In the first chapter, we investigate four groups of Russian futurism - Ego-Futurism, Cubo-Futurism, Tsentrifuga, and the Mezzanine of poetry, which were born in the age of utopianism before the Revolution. In the opera Victory Over the Sun, which was the culmination of the Zaum project of Cubo-futurists, we can find the initial shortcomings at the levels of language (Kruchenykh), music (Matyushin) and decoration and costume design (Malevich). In the second chapter, we examine chronologically how the term 'futurism' appeared in Korean literature history. In Korea, the term 'futurism' was born following the naming and classification of critic Kwon Heok-Woong, not by the voluntary manifestation of experimental poets such as Hwang Byong-Seung, thus this specific situation provoked stormy polemics between critics for futurism and critics against futurism in the Korean literary world. These polemics on futurist poetics have led to considerations of the relation of criticism to poetry.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.129-140
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• 2023

Following ISO 20471, in this study, first, two sets of safety clothes and safety vests were made by designing and attaching animal and bird patterns preferred by children to retroreflective films and black fabrics on those fluorescent fabrics and retroreflective materials prescribed by international standards. Second, by mounting a smart photonic device on the safety clothing so that the body can be recognized from a distance even without an ambient light source at night, children can emit three types of light depending on the situation with just one-touch of the button. From a result of comparison with visibility a day and night by dressing a mannequin in the made smart safety clothing, the difference in visibility was evident at night, it was confirmed that we can see the figure of a person even at a distance of approximately 70 m. Therefore, it is expected to contribute to the prevention of traffic and other accidents on the road, as the drivers driving at night or in bad weather can recognize a person from a distance. Third, in case of the energy is exhausted and cannot maintain the stability of the light-emitting function of the optical faber, we can use energy harvesting device, and the light-emitting time will be extended. As a result it comes up to emit light stably for a long time. And this prove that smart photonic safety clothing can also be used for night workers. Therefore, optical fiber safety clothing is expected to be highly wearable not only in real life but also in dark industrial sites due to stable charging by applying the energy harvesting provided by solar cells.

• Trans-
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• v.1
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• pp.21-44
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• 2016

Advertisement is composed with symbol and sign with messages trying to express. Especially, ad with dancer introduces goods or meaning of contents with the motion of dance. In this, contents of dance or motion of dancer contains symbol and sign, understanding how ad and dance are expressed meanings with which symbol and the symbolic meaning of dance or dancer on ad. To that end, this study is for analyzing expressed symbol with dance corresponds with the aim of ad and finding the way or attitude of how normal people accept dance by reevaluating symbolic meaning of dance itself. In this study, advertisement producer and director's related data is secured for understanding direction and intention of producer, and previous study related with the study purpose, image, and effect are analyzed for understanding image of dance as a physical sign on TV advertisement. With data from www.TVCF.co.kr. TV advertisement analysis is conducted only with four ads in 2008(Nam Kwang Eng. & Const Co., Lotte Dept. Store(premium sale/gift card), Hyundai Motor Company Santa Fe -Pilobolus) and one ad in 2011(PNS The zone Sash Italy Arena di Verona when dance was used for advertisement with the highest frequency per year. Also, based on considered important factors from repeatedly watching each advertisement, scenes where movement or motion of dancer and screen word is greatly changed are analyzed as a priority. Image analysis of dance is conducted with structure studies based on physical image(line, costume, expression) and dan image(type motion, qualitative feature, mood of dance). As a result, the symbolic dance image appeared in TV advertisement can be discussed as follows. First, symbol and sign of dance on advertisement corresponds with material objects of advertisement. For instance, on the TV advertisement where Lee Youngwoo appeared, his motion as a signifer means challenge for the future of Nam Kwang Eng. & Const Co., with fast turn, jump, assemble turning jump, and sliding. Second, physical image of dancer depending on intention of sender corresponds in general, but there are somewhat differences in image of dance. This makes people to unconsciously recognize symbolic image of dance on TV ad while they watch it at the same time. Especially, when it comes to advertisement, it exposes frequently with broadcasting of organized programs from a broadcaster, living long-time memory. It can be differ based on idea and character of each of receiver. Advertisement is a medium making people naturally adopt cultural art for ordinary people in their lives. Broadcasting public art from TV advertisement widely exposes pure art to people, which was only avaliable for minority, sublimating it as an art of public culture.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.84-107
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• 2018

Cheommojik is a pile cloth, a type of textile whose surface is covered with short piles. The term chaedam was used during the late Joseon dynasty to refer to pile cloth rugs, while the terms yoongjeon, dantong and yangtanja were used in the early twentieth century. Various documents, newspaper articles and photographs confirm that pile cloth rugs were used by the general public as well as the royal family from the late Joseon dynasty onward, and that there were domestic manufacturers of such rugs at that time. This study investigated six pile cloth rugs that were produced after the late Joseon dynasty, five of which feature Persian knots made of cut pile, the other being made with the loop pile method. The cut pile rugs are rectangular in shape and measure between 72-98cm by 150-156cm; and they are decorated in the middle with patterns of butterfly, deer, and tiger or the ten longevity symbols, and along the edges with patterns composed of 卍 symbols. The ground warp of all six rugs are made from cotton yarn, while the ground weft is made of cotton yarn on three pieces, wool on one piece and cotton and viscose rayon. The ground weft yarn from four pieces are Z-twist yarn made with two or more S-twist cotton yarn. Four to six colors were used for the pile weft, all being natural colors except for red. Two or more S- or Z-twist yarn were twisted together in the opposite twist for the pile weft, with the thickness determining the number of threads used. Six or more weft threads were used to make the start and end points of the rug; and the ground warp ends were arranged by tying every four of them together. For the left and right edges, three or more threads were wrapped together into a round stick-like form, and the second and third inner ground warps from the edges were stitched on to the wrapped edge. For the loop pile, loops were made in the direction of the warp; the ground warp and the ground weft may have been made with cotton, the pile warp with wool yarn. An analysis of the components of three rugs was conducted to determine which types of animal hair were used for the pile weft. Despite some inconclusive results, it was revealed that goat hair and fat-tailed sheep hair were used, raising the possibility that various kinds of animal fur were used in the production of pile cloth rugs. The six rugs examined in this study are estimated to have been made between the late 1800s and the early 1900s. Although the manufacturer of the rugs cannot be confirmed, we concluded that the rugs were produced in Korea after referring to the documentation of the domestic production of pile cloth rugs during the aforementioned period and the form and placements of the patterns on the rugs.

• Korean Journal of Agricultural Science
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.28-60
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• 1983

This study was carried out to define the effects of external factors including temperature, moisture, oxygen and light quality on the germination of sesame seeds and to investigate the change of major chemical constituents of seeds during germination. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. The average germination ratio was from 95.8% to 97.2% when it was tested every $5^{\circ}C$ intervals from $20^{\circ}C$ to $35^{\circ}C$ and no significant difference in germination ratio was found within $20^{\circ}C$ to $35^{\circ}C$. But the germination ratio dropped rapidly to 32.2% when seeds were germinated at $15^{\circ}C$ and the coefficient of variation become greater(77%) 2. The days required for germination ranged from 1.16 to 1. 64 at the temperatures of $35^{\circ}C$ to $25^{\circ}C$ and they were 3.07 and 10.4 at the temperatures of $20^{\circ}C$ and $15^{\circ}C$, respectively. 3. Considering the germination ratio and days needed, $15^{\circ}C$ was assumed to be the minimum temperature for germination practically and this temperature is recommended for testing low temperature tolerance of seed germination of sesame cultivars. 4. The varieties shown the highest low temperature tolerance were Shirogoma and Turkey. The next varieties shown some degree of low temperature germination were Suweon #29, Naebok and IS 58. The varieties with 70 to 80% of germination ratio were Maepo, Suweon #14, Kimpo, Moondeok, and Haenam. Among the 90 varieties tested, the varieties with comparatively high degree of low temperature tolerance were about 10%, and 70% of the low temperature tolerant varieties were domestic varieties. 5. At $12^{\circ}C$ the Shirogoma was the only variety which showed over 50% of germination ratio, 71.4% of the varieties showed less than 20% of germination ratio. When the temperature was raised to $27^{\circ}C$ 18 days after placement at $12^{\circ}C$ all the varieties showed over 90% of germination ratio within 2days. 6. The amounts of water imbibition needed for seed germination were 0.48 to 0.62 times of the seed dry weight at $25^{\circ}C$ and were significantly different among sesame cultivars. About 63% of water required for germination was imbibed in 2 hours after placement of seeds under the germination condition. 7. Under saturated moisture condition the average germination ratio was 0.42%. In the soil of which water potential was -0.4bar 64.8% of the seeds germinated and the most adequate soil water potential for sesame seed germination was about -0.4 to -5.5 bar. The germination ratio decreased as the soil water potential declined below -5.5 bar. 8. Six out of 10 varieties were not influenced by 5% of oxygen in air germination chamber, while varieties such as Yecheon, PI 158073, IS 103 and Euisangcheon showed 64 to 91% of germination under the 5% oxygen content. Under anaerobic condition, cotyledones were not emerged but only hypocotyl was emerged and elongated. The germination ratio of IS 103 decreased significantly under anaerobic condition. 9. When the seeds were dried for 24 hours after 12 hours imbibition of water, the seeds of Cheongsong did not lose their germination ability and 27.5% was germinated but Suweon #9 and Early Russian failed to germinate. However, the germination ratio of IS 103 decreased when the seed were dried 24 hours after 4 hours imbibition of water and the germination ability of IS 103 was maintained even though the seeds were dried for 24 hours after 24 hours imbibition of water. 10. During germination, sugar content of sesame seed increased rapidly and activity of ${\alpha}$-amylase increased gradually while starch content decreased significantly. The rates of increase in sugar content and enzyme activity and decrease in starch content were significantly lower at $15^{\circ}C$ compared with those at $25^{\circ}C$. 11. During germination of sesame seeds, lipid content in the seeds dropped rapidly and the activity of alkaline lipase increased significantly at early stage of germination. The rate of decrease in lipid content and increase in emzyme activity was lower at $15^{\circ}C$ than at $25^{\circ}C$. 12. Four out of 6 varieties were not affected in germination by light wave length. But Suweon #8 was inhibited in germination by 600-650nm. and IS 103 by 600 to 650nm and 500 to 550nm of light wave length. Suweon #8 showed high germination ratio under 650 to 760 nm and 500 to 560nm, and IS 103 under 400 to 470nm and complete darkness. 13. The germination ratios increased significantly in the seeds of which 1000 grain weight is heavier. When the seeds were placed at soil 4cm deep, Cheongsong and Early Russian failed to emerge their cotyledones, but Suweon #9 and IS 103 showed 32.5 and 50% cotyledone emergence, respectively. The extracts from sesame plant and soil where the sesame was cultivated previously did not affect in the-germination of sesame seeds. 14. The covering by black or transparent polyethylene films increased germination ratio compared with uncovered seeds. The covering was effective in shortening the days needed for germination and in improving the early seedling growth, number of capsules per plant and grain yield. Difference was not so seizable between the two polyethylene films but the transparent film appeared somewhat more effective than the black one. 15. Simcheon, Cheongsong. Suweon #9. PI 158073 and IS 103 showed lower rate of water absorbtion by seed during germination and Suweon #8, Suweon #26, Orotall and Euisangcheon showed high increase in seed weight after water absorbtion by seed.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.133-162
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• 1995

Paderborn's companies, Wameling and Cassau, produce the liturgical vestments, which have much traditional artistic merit. And Kevelaerer Fahnen + Paramenten GmbH, located in Kevelater which is a place of pilgrimage of the Virgin Mary, was known to Europe, Africa, America and the Scandinavia Peninsula as the "Hidden Company" of liturgical vesments maker up to now. Paderborn and Kevelaer were the place of the center of the religious world and the Catholic ceremony during a good few centries. The Catholic liturgical vestiments of these 3 companies use versatile design, color, shape and techniques. These have not only the symbolism of religion, but also can meet our's expectations of utilization of modern textile art, art clothing and wide-all division of design. These give the understanding of symbolic meanings and harmony according to liturgical vestments to the believers. And these have an influence on mental thinking and induction of religious belief to the non-believers as the recognition and concerns about the religious art. The liturgical vestments are clothes which churchmen put on at the all ceremonial function of a mass, a sacrament, performance and a parade according to rules of church. These show the represen-tation of "Holy God" in silence and distinguish between common people and churchmen. And these represent a status and dignity of churchmen and induce majesty and respect to churchmen. Common clothes of the beginning of the Greece and Rome was developed to Christian clothes with the tendency of religion. There were no special uniforms distinguished from commen people until the Christianity was recognized officially by the Roman Emperor Constantinus at A.D.313. The color of liturgical vestments was originally white and changed to special colors according to liturgical day and each time by the Pope Innocentius at 12th century. The color and symbolic meaning of the liturgical vestments of present day was originated by the Pope St. Pius(1566-1572). Wool and Linen was used as decorations and materials in the beginnings and the special materials like silk was used after 4th century and beautiful materials made of gold thread was used at 12th century. It is expected that there is no critical changes to the liturgical vestments of future. But the development of liturgical vestments will continues slowly by the command of conservative church and will change to simple and convenient formes according to the culture, the trend of the times and the fashion of clothes. The companies of liturgical vestments develop versatile design, embroidery technique and realization of creative design for distinction of the liturgical vestments of each company and artistic progress. The cooperation of companies, artists and church will make the bright future of these 3 companies. We expect that our country will be a famous producing center of the liturgical vestments through the research and development of companies, participation of artists in religeous arts and concerts of church.