• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.65-75
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• 2005

The purpose of this paper is to understand the formal characteristics of Pi-Ling by investigating the Pi-Ling(披領)'s system of Qing Dynasty. As a research document, Qing-Huidian-Tu(淸會典圓) has been used. The following results were found out in this research; 1) The form of Pi-Ling was horizontally wide and both sides were narrow and sharp. There was a circular hole in the center of Pi-Ling. It was worn around the neck by a button in its front center. 2) materials: The materials of Pi-Ling were the leather of marten or sea-lion, satins, and silk. 3) The color of Pi-Ling was purple or blue. 4) Moving dragons(行龍) were used on the pattern of Pi-Ling. And the Pi-Ling of low level officials had no patterns.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.89-97
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• 2003

This study is to review the development of calico printing pattern design for fabric through historical perspective. Calico is a cotton cloth named from Calicut, a city of India. It was first brought to England by the East India company in 1621. Although the name is generally given and plain white cotton cloth, and in America it is applied to small-scale printed cottons, today it applies to indian cotton cloth, coarse or fine, woven with colored geometrical large-scale and small-scale patterns, painted or printed. Therefore this paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of calico printing pattern from the early of 16th century to 21th century. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive calico pattern design in domestic cotton textile industry.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.99-110
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to examine the relationship among body cathexis, preference in style, clothing behavior and clothing purchase behavior. Based upon the effect of body cathexis and preference in style on adolescence clothing purchase behavior, this study suggests classification of the future adolescence consumers for fashion marketing. The questionnaire were administered to 1400 middle school and high school students living in Seoul and Inchon. Data were analyzed by Frequency, Factor analysis, Correlation analysis, Regression analysis, SPSS. This study used body cathexis and preference in style as Independent variables, clothing behavior and clothing purchase behavior as Dependent variables.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability and color fastness of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extract of Arrowroot leaf princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordant treatment, component of fabric and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness, color difference by C.C.M system and K/S test. The summerized finding reulted from experiment and investigation are suggested as follows : In the C.C.M and K/S test on mordanting method and kind of fabric, that of silk and cotton was the most effective in the pre mordant treatment. In the C.C.M and K/S analysis on 5 mordants, that of silk and cotton was significantly improved when mordants was treatmented. Especially, that of Fe mordanting treatment was higher than Al, Cu, Cr and none. In color fastness on mordants, laundering, perspiration and abrasion fastness showed 4-5 grade but light fastness showed 1-3 grade.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.15-23
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• 2003

Chestnut trees have been used as a dyeing material, which are grow naturally, are cultivated all the area of Korea. So, there is abundant amount of the materials and they have better colorfastness than other natural dyeing materials. But chestnut husk extract is good at silk and wool fabrics, not cotton fabrics. That's why many methods using chestnut extraction for dyeing are being studied. But most of them depend on treatment method with chemical material which doesn't fit with the aim, using natural materials. Therefore in this research, we used protein pre-treatment method which is dyeing chestnut husk extract after treating at cotton fabrics with bean sap. And we studied the effect of dyeability of chestnut husk extract to cotton fabrics. As a result of pre-treatment of bean sap at cotton fabrics, dyeability was increased. Besides laundering fastness, dry cleaning fastness, perspiration fastness and light fastness were almost increased.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.25-36
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive technique of grunge look in knitwear fashion. For this study, I have investigated theories of retro and decontructionism trends, and have examined pictures from professional fashion magazines. The results of study on the expressive technique of grunge look reflected on the knitwear fashion were as follows; (1) patchwork technique, which is an outstanding method of recycling, (2) handknitting technique, which came from retro trend of hippism, (3) unfinished edge, which emphasized the image of poverty and incompleteness, (4) irregular lace knitting and slash technique, which is the typical details of grunge look and denies the traditional fashion order, (5) hand stitch technique using various materials, which gives second-hand mood of hippie look, and (6) fringe details, which originated from the unfinished edge technique.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2003

This study is a process of developing experimental Korean image fashion items that can appeal to the younger generation. The sample models are focused on jeans and T-shirts. This project had two goals. First, giving chance to the students of Konkuk-University of producing fashion items adopting Korean image in university venture company. Second, contributing to Korean image fashion market if the items have been proved to have competitive power through the market of Konkuk-University and it's cooperated company. The research is restricted within ornament techniques of Korean traditional dress and its ornament's element, they are patchwork wrapping-cloth(Chokakbo), embroidery, gold and silver foil on cloths, and transcription. Such Korean image elements are graphic patterned as 30 jeans and 50 T-shirts and eventually evaluated by 100 university students majoring in garments. The evaluation scale contains repletion of Korean image, possibility of market, and preference. Through this process, 6 jeans and 7 T-shirts were produced.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2003

So many patterns of the clothing give the specific indication for one's clothing behavior and present the common style for the society. Human being gives the one's free expression and attempts to change the existing cultural environment by the clothing even though human being would be restricted in choosing the clothing within the category of the society & the culture. The value of human being which attempts to escape the restriction through the behavior theory of T. Parsons is analysed and studied. The role of the modern society is being transformed and human being attempts to express one's self through the clothing very strongly. The clothing behavior means the expression of oneself for others. This phenomenon comes from the changing of human being's view of value through the social & cultural environment which give human being the freedom of the individual to choose the various clothing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The influence of the 'well-being' trend on the every day life of our society can be found by recent books, articles, and magazines. The purpose of this study is to analyze the well-being trend and its effect on the current knitwear fashion. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The 'well-being' trend is very different from the past life style and it will be a preceding life style in 21st century. (2) The preference for organic food and the promotion of 'colorful menu' came from the 'well-being' trend. And, the yoga, zen, meditation, aroma-therapy, spa, and massage are also under the influence of 'well-being' trend. (3) The Neo-Hippie look and Neo-Vintage look are connected with the 'well-being' trend. (4) The influences of 'well-being' trend on the current knitwear fashion are shown in the hand knitting (bulky knit & crochet), twin sets including cardigans, hand crafted details, natural colors, and natural materials.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate gather as decoration techniques of clothes. In this study, we defined 21st century as the modern fashion. And analyzed design that applied gather concerned with Milan, New York, London, Paris, Tokyo Woman's Collections. Data were used from Fashion News and Gap Press Magazine (2001-2004). The results of this study were as follows: 1. Gather was the most original techniques among decoration techniques of clothes and formed three-dimensional space. 2. There were many kinds of gather such as cluster gather, all gather, shirring, smoking, frill, flounce, ruffle. and it gave a different impression with Fabrics, cutting method, sewing method, parts that were used. 3. Gather had practical functions providing enough space in activity and was presented as new shape by three-dimension body motion when it was put on. 4. After analyzing design that applied gather showed in collections, there were various appearance according to designer's sensitivity.