• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1107-1115
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• 1996

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing condition (seam line; wp, wf, 45$^{\circ}$ bias, stitch density; 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2 mm), 4 stitch/cm (2.5 mm), thread; sp 60$^{\circ}$s/2, sp 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 50$^{\circ}$s/3)) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The correlations of the easing and sewing conditions were by SPSS PC), and visual test was done by enlarged photo. The results obstained were as follows:. 1. The easing contraction ratio is increased in proportion to the low of stitch density. 2. The easing contraction ratio of wp, 45$^{\circ}$ bias is correlated with stitch density, and that of wf be with stitch density, elongation & weight. 3. The easing contraction ratio of 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm) is correlated with flexible rigidity, and that of 4 stitch/ cm (2.5 mm) be with flexible rigidity and crease-resistance. 4. As a results of SPSS PC+ statistics, the easing contraction ratio is statistically correlated to the seam line, stitch density, upper thread tension, and fabric characteristics. 5. As a results of visual test by the enlarged photo, the limit of stitch density for easing contraction was 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1027-1039
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• 1995

Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better cress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle aged women's upper torso for dress form designers and pattern makers by classifying the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view, and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance. Factor analysis was used to 23 items from photometric measurment and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Through cluster analysis using 5 factor scores, 3 somatotypes were categorized from th lateral view 1) Type I was straight somatotype in which the plumb line passes throught the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joing and the mid abdominal region laterally. This type of woman was slender and shorter than average. 2) Type II was bending somatotype in which the upper portion of upper torso is bent forward. This type of woman was taller and fatter than average. 3) Type III was swayback somatotype in which the upper portion of protruding point on the back is bent forward but the lower portion of protruding point had characteristic of turning over somatotype. This type of woman had storter length on the front and longer lenght on the back, slender type and flat chest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 1983

The objective of the study is to obtain the basic data to establish the standard value of proper clothing weights in the change of thermal environment. For the purpose of this research, clothing weight and thermal sensation have been collected from 160 college student in Seoul and Kwangju area in April, July, October. Results are as follows : 1. Subjects were in Comfortable condition, particularly in Spring and Autumn. But in summer they were in warm condition and the case were reversed in winter when they were under cool condition. 2. The frequency of comfortable thermal sensation were low below 16.5 degree, above 27.5 degree, and were high between 16.5 degree and 23 degree on room temperature. 3. Generally, the positive correlation were found between clothing weights and thermal sensation. 4. Clothing weights and thermal comfort were as follows. Season : Spring, Autumn, Room Temperature(${\circ}C$) : 16.3$\~$23, Clothing Weights($g/m^2$) : 589.9$\~$750.6, Season : Summer Room Temperature(${\circ}C$) : 27$\~$32, Clothing Weights($g/m^2$) : 362.4$\~$432.5, Season : Winter, Room Temperature(${\circ}C$) : 12.5$\~$19.3, Clothing Weights($g/m^2$) : 913.7$\~$1206.2

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to investigate the degree of learning interest in the curriculum of home economics for the middle and high school girls in korea and Japan, and to obtain the basic guidance for the improvement of the effect of home economics education. In this study korea and Japanese textbooks were compared and the questionaires were administered to 290 middle school girls and 270 high school girls in Chong-Ju, korea, and 261 middle school girls and 248 high school girls in Tokyo, Japan. The obtained data were analyzed by percentile and $\chi$$\^$2/-test. In comparision of the degree of interest in hand sewing and machine sewing korean middle school girls showed higher interest than the high school girls, on the other hand, in Japan, the high school girls were more interested. In the unit of making a simple clothes, the middle school girls of both countries were more interested than the high school girls, and the degree of interest of Japanese girls was higher than that of korean girls.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.223-232
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• 1992

The ultimate purpose of this study is to build a model on clothing satisfaction which extends the consumer satisfaction model by unifying the exportation antecedents. In the literature study, it is proposed to clarify the concepts on the clothing satisfaction, and to investigate the present paradigms of the consumer satisfaction. It is widely accepted by the clothing researchers that the clothing satisfaction is a comparative process in which the evaluation criteria are used to judge the clothing product and to access the disconfirmation. In the Disconfirmation paradigm, the role of the expectation is very important. We propose to classify the expectation into the expective expectation and the normative expectation. The normative expectation applies when the investment cost and effort are considered. The expectation is shown to be affected by the expectation antecedents of the product characteris-tics, the situation characteristics, and the consumer characteristics. We investigate in detail those clothing satisfaction determinants and their measurement methods. Then, we build a clothing satisfaction model by the disconfirmation paradigm which is composed of the expectation antecedents, the expectation (expective expectation, normative expectation), the perceived clothing product performance, and the disconfirmation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1981

The purpose of this study was to investigate the attitudes of handed-me-down clothing in the Che-ju elementary school children. Measures of attitudes toward handed-me-down clothing consisted of: 1) attitudes of receiver's 2) feeling of receive.'s 3) behaviors 4) possession 5) frequency of wearing handed-me-down clothing. Two aspects of clothing behaviors were slightly modified to assess conformity?individuality, satisfaction in clothing. The sample consisted of 565 students in Che-ju elementary school children, Korea. The data, collected by means of a self-administered questionaire, were analysed by Chi-Square ($X^2$) and Correlation(R). The results indicated that: 1. Handed-me-down clothing was not significantly different between elder brothers (sisters) and child. 2. Most of the children wanted to wear comfort, good style, fit and neat in handed-me-down clothing. 3. Most of the children were satisfied with their handed-me-down clothing and tended not to be aware of the source in clothing. 4. Most of the children had higher interest of individuality and satisfaction in clothing behaviors.

• The Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Illuminating and Electrical Installation Engineers
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.40-49
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• 1994

본 연구의 목적은 문-스펜서 색채조화영역별로 피부색과 복장색의 배색이미지를 분석하여 피부색을 기준으로 한 복장색의 의복이미지를 파악하는 것이다. 연구결과 첫째, 피부색과 복장색의 배색은 3가지 차원의 인상으로 구성되었다(평가, 활동, 조화). 둘째, 문-스펜서의 색채조화론을 적용하여 시각적 평가의 차이를 분석한 결과 조화영역들은 비슷하게 지각됨을 알 수 있었다. 부조화영역간에는 평가차원과 활동차원이 달리 지각됨을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 샛체조화론의 적용으로 분류되는 조화영역별 배색이미지를 분석한 결과, 동일색상들의 배색은 대체로 미도가 높은 편이었다. 제2부조화색상들의 배색은 미도가 낮았다. 유사색상중 빨강색 계열의 배색은 미도가 높았으며 노랑색 계역의 배색은 미도가 낮았다. 제2부조화색 계열, 청녹색 계열의 배색은 미도가 높은 편이며 남색 계열, 보라색 계열의 배색은 대체로 미도가 높았다. 무채색 계열의 배색은 세련된, 아름다운, 사고싶은, 보기좋은, 마음에 드는, 조화된, 멋있는 피부색과 어울리는, 매력있는, 인물이 돋보이는 이미지를 가지고 있다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.266-278
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• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.117-130
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• 2005

Western clothing is adjusted to the figures of the human body unlike Korean traditional clothes. For this adjustment, we need a method, known as dart, to reasonably adjust a wide circumference to curves of the human body. So far, there has been some research in the aspect of clothing engineering on how to decide darts of skirts or trousers, but no theoretical research has yet been conducted on how to decide the number and amount of dart, which has caused difficulties in beginners' understanding of dart. Futhermore, there is no consistent drawing method for the number and amount of darts in existing teaching and teaming materials. Therefore, to develop teaching and teaming methods for darts, this study identified the amount and number of darts for waist girth of 66-72cm and a hip girth of 86-102cm. When the difference between the waist girth and the hips girth, including margins, is above a minimum of 26cm, two darts can be designed, but when the difference is below 24cm, one dart is necessary. The amount of darts increases by 0.5cm for every 2cm increase of the hip girth to the waist girth. In addition, as darts become longer, the cutting of the waist line becomes smoother. For one, rather than two, darts the curve of the waist line is steeper. Based on the above results, it was assured that when belts are curved through adjustment to the waist line of skirts or slacks, their composition can be stable. Therefore, in basic teaching about slacks and skirts, the number and amount of the darts should be designed according to the difference between the girths of the waist and the hip. This difference should be a minimum of 24cm, but if it is below 24cm, the number of darts needed is one.