• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2003

우리 민족의 고유 의복인 한복은 민족의 의생활 정서를 그대로 담아낸 우리의 전통 복식으로서 오랜 역사성을 가지고 있으나, 현대에 이르러서는 일상복이라기보다 예복 및 행사용 의복으로 입혀지고 있다. 이처럼 한복이 우리 일상생활에서 착용 빈도가 줄기는 하였으나 과거 경험과 눈대중에 의했던 한복제작에도 보다 체계적이고 과학적인 방법제시가 필요하게 되었다. 따라서 이러한 상황을 반영하듯, 실제로 한복구성을 위해 출간된 교재들은 최근까지 수십 종에 이르고 있으며, 이론과 실습을 겸한 패턴 제시와 함께 자세한 바느질 방법까지 설명되어 있어, 우리 옷의 구성에 문외한이던 학생들에게도 좋은 안내서가 되고 있는 것은 사실이다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1027-1037
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• 2023

This paper presents an efficient method for generating informative apparel fit comments by analyzing 122 fit reviews found in 7 menswear patternmaking textbooks, which include both domestic and foreign sources. The fit reviews for menswear were categorized into top and bottoms, and the expressions varied based on body parts, causes, and fit issue appearances. The causes of fit issues could be attributed to size errors and structural errors in both top and bottoms. Both top and bottoms had fit reviews concerning unique body types, but it could cause trouble among learners as both were based on unclear criteria for body type classification and lacked relevant explanations. Common fit issue appearances included compound wrinkles, pulling wrinkles, sagging wrinkles, and garment being away from the body. No clear correlation was observed between the causes of fit issues and specific appearances. Limitations were identified in using textbooks as educational data, such as inconsistent solutions for different body types or fit issues, and the presence of ambiguous visual materials. As a result, strategies such as categorizing fit issue appearances, providing 3D visual examples with subcategorized causes, body types and parts could enhance quality of fit reviews and improve fit outcomes in clothing production systems.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.150-151
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.91-100
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• 2017

The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.119-131
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• 2021

In this study, I compared the pattern design method of classic shirts focused on the men's clothing consturction textbook. It was intended to select a shirt pattern drawing method suitable for men in their 20s by conducing a appearance evaluation with a 3D simulation program. Pattern drawing method, sizes, appearance evaluation, garment pressure. were evaluated, and SPSS 26.0 program was used for analysis. According to the Pattern drawing method, there were differences in application sizes, and there were many parts where designated sizes were applied. The shirt pattern is mostly the same for the front chest and back chest, front waist and back waist. However, if there is a front and back difference of the chest and the waist circumference, the fit was considered better. B pattern was evaluated as the best in appearance evaluation, color distribution, and mesh condition through 3D simulation, and B pattern was analyzed as the most suitable method for men in their 20s. Since this study applied the average sizes of the 7th Korean Human Body Dimension Survey report in 20s, it is thought that caution should be paid to apply them to all 20s. In the future, it is also thought that research on the actual fit and patterns of various body types and materials in their 20s should be carried out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.617-627
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• 2010

This study selected and compared 7 tailored collar making factors from 15 clothing construction university textbooks. According to the results, in 15 clothing construction textbooks, the neckline of a tailored collar was drawn at the same length as the back neck circumference of the bodice and the length of collar stand was 3cm in 10 textbooks. In addition, the length of the collar laying varied between 2cm and 4.5cm regardless of the width of the upper collar or the textile thickness. In 7 out of the 15 textbooks, the gorge line of the collar was drawn by illustrating the collar pattern on the bodice based on the roll line and then copying it symmetrically. On the other hand, the pattern of upper collar was made in 5 ways; and 2 books did not give any explanation in the sections dealing with patterns or sewing. In addition, 6 textbooks explained that inner and outer collars are sewn with a difference. The lapel pattern of the facing part was made in 4 ways; in addition, 3 textbooks did not provide an explanation and 4 books explained that the difference is given in the sewing. The textile thickness and elasticity need to be considered in collar pattern making; however, they were not specifically mentioned in most of the textbooks.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.179-191
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• 2003

The study is to suggest easier making method of skirts and slacks as to compare production process between manufacturers and references of clothing construct in universities. Skirts and slacks have simple production process and they are basic subjects in clothing construct class. But most references have just contents which are to make basic styles of skirts and slacks made basic materials. Continuous development of new material and variety of style request more efficient and easer making method in the reference of clothing construct. So the making methods of references and manufacturers are compared and analyzed in this study In references, there are many hand work and sub-work because they are for a person who make own clothes. In contrast, manufacturers have to product many variety clothes of good quality for many people and think the production cost of clothes. They use more simple and efficient method that include their know-how to meet changing fashion situation. In making methods of skirts and slacks, differences between references and manufacturer are in sewing of waist band and zippers and location of interlining. Manufacturers use variedly sewing method of waist band according to material and their experience. Especially handling for wrong side inseam of waist band is distinct between references and manufacturers. References have basic and detail work and manufacturers know processing order having even grade work to keep continuous production. The making method of clothes have to change and improve according to the situation. The more useful making method get to include their merits and references need to add more practical method and knowledge.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.113-122
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• 2006

In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1510-1519
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• 2007

This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.