• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.630-641
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• 2002

본 연구에서는 기성복 제작과 체형해석에 필요한 기준을 마련하기 위해, 표준체형의 개념을 다빈도 구간에 속하면서 아름다운 크기와 형태, 프로포션을 갖는 체형으로 정의하였다. 이에 따라 다수의 피험자가 속해 있는 H.P.구간을 밝히고, 각 체형 분류 방법에 의해 제시된 다빈도 유형 및 바른체형 유형, H.P. 구간 피험자의 체형이 각각 전체 피험자 집단의 체형을 대표할 수 있는지에 대해 검토하였다. 그 결과 특정 체형 분류 방법에 의한 다빈도 유형이나 바른체형 유형을 기준으로 표준체형에 접근하기보다는, H.P. 구간 피험자 집단의 체형특성을 기준으로 표준체형에 접근하는 것이 타당하다고 판단되었다. 또한 본 연구에서는 표준체형을 도출해 내기 위해 선행 체형 분석 방법에 의해 분류된 다빈도 유형 및 바른체형 유형과 다빈도 구간을 비교, 분석함으로써 다빈도 형태에 대해 먼저 접근하는 방법을 사용하였다. 표준 형태를 파악한 후 표준 치수를 찾아내는 방법을 통해 표준체형의 형태적 특징에 대한 많은 정보를 얻을 수 있다고 판단된다. 제2보에서는 첫째, 사진평가에 의한 미적 분석 방법을 제안하고, 둘째, 체형에 대한 미적분석 결과를 본보에서 제시한 통계적 분석 결과와 합하여 표준프로포션과 표준체형을 제안하고자 한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.199-209
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• 1991

In this paper, the fabrics for Korean folk clothes(KFC) undergoes repeated laundering under given condition. After this cyclic laundering was applied, the mechanical properties of the specimen were measured using KES-F system in order to evaluated the end-use performance of fabrics for KFC. And also, the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC were measured by shirley crease recovery tester. 78 different kinds of commercial silk fabrics and polyester fabrics for KFC were used for this study. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the mechanical properties and the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC. Furthermore, these changes in dimensional stability, mechanical properties and handle of fabrics for KFC were discussed in comparison with those values for silk fabrics and polyester fabrics. The results obtained are as follows. 1. Regardless of materials, remarkable increase are observed in shrinkage of the fabrics for KFC about repeated laundering, but dull increase are observed in shrinkage after 10 cycles of the repeated laundering. On the other hand, slack extend are observed in dimensions after 20 cycles of the repeated laundering. The shrinkage of fabrics for KFC after 10 cycles of the lundering showed that the silk fabrics are $1.74{\pm}0.33\%$ (warp direction) and $1.35{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction) and the polyester fabrics are $1.45{\pm}0.22\%$ (warp direction) and $1.25{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction). 2. Except for tensile property, these changes in mechanical properties of fabrics for KFC by laundering have $\pm$ 16 range of bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness & weight as compared with before laundering. Particularly, the LT and RT about $1\~3$ cycles of the repeated laundering showed remarkable decrease. And SMD, WC, T & W of fabrics for KFC by the laundering were more increased than one for original fabrics. But B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS were decreased more than one for original fabrics. 3. 'Stiffness', 'Anti-drape', 'Crispness' and 'Scroop' hand values decrease and'Fullness & softness', 'Flexibility & softness' hand values increase with repeated laundering. 4. Remarkable decrease are observed in crease recoveries about $1\~5$ cycles of the repeated lundering, but slack decrease are observed in crease recoveries after 5 cycles of repeated laundering. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC have negative(-) correlation with LT, RT, G, RC and MMD, This fact implies that the smaller these values, the larger the crease recovery. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC has a high degree of correlation with the mechanical properties such as shearing, compression, surface property. And also, the crease recovery are expected by measuring the mechanical properties such as G, 2HG, 2HGS, RC, WC, LC, MIU, MMD and SMD, according to the obtained regression equation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.139-150
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• 1991

The purpose of this study is to do the Somatotype classification according to the type of shoulder-neck and to give the thinkness of shoulder pad according to them. Therefore this study was measurement body size of 201 and the somatotypes were classified as their plumb line. The standard somatotype of this measurement was classified as 9 type according to its angle of shoulder inclination and neck length. Pads which have different thickness (1 cm, 1.5 cm, 2 cm) were attached to the 9 body type and the set-in sleeve blouse and raglan sleeve blouse were made and tring test and sensory test were accomplished. The results of this study were as follows: 1 . Classification of shoulder-neck relationship. Angles of shoulder inclination ($15^{\circ},\;21^{\circ},\;27^{\circ}$), lock lenaths (10 cm, 12.5 cm, 15 cm) were classi- fied as 3 type each and these types were combined as 9 types. II . The result of angle difference of shoulder inclination according to pad thickness. 1) In case of set-in pad. angle is increased $5.75^{\circ}$ per 1 cm of pad thickness. 2) In case of raglan pad. angle is increased $6.45^{\circ}$ per 1 cm of pad thickness. III. The most fit pad thickness to the 9 types. In case of set-in sleeve blouse. 1) High shoulder-long neck, Standard shoulder-long neck Low shoulder-long neck, Stan-dard shoulder·standard neck. Low shoulder-standard neck: 1.5 cm. 2) High shoulder-standard neck, Standard shoulder-short neck, Low shoulder-short neck: 1 cm. 3) High shoulder-short neck: 0 cm(without pad) In case of raglan sleeve blouse. 4) High shoulder-long neck, Standard shoulder-long neck, Low shoulder·long neck, Stan-dard shoulder-standard neck, Low shoulder-standard neck: 1.5 cm. 5) High shoulder-standard neck, Standard shoulder-short neck, Low-shoulder-short neck: 1 cm. 6) High shoulder-short neck: 0 cm(without pad)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.684-695
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of the mechanical properties on drapability in the peach skin-like finished fabrics. For this study, the samples used were 50 kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics. The mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compressional, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured with a KES-F system and drupe coefficient by drape tester. The relationship between the characteristic values and drape coefficicients of the peach skin-like finished fabrics results were obtained. 1. Peach skin-like finished fabric had $\pm$2o range of shearing, bending, compression, surface. properties, thickness and weight as compared with Japanese women's thin fabrics. The characteristic mixing values were better with the values of WC/T, W/T, etc. as compared with that of japanese women's thin fabrics. Accordingly, the peach skin-like finished fabrics had a little volume, excellent hanging and drapability as compared with japanese women's thin fabrics. 2. The drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabric had a high level of correlation between 2HB, G, WC, MIU, WT, MMD, 2HG, RT, W, B etc. of the mechanical properties. The blocked properties that contributed to the drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabrics were in the order of the bending> tensile> thickness> weight properties. This drape coefficients(DC) were found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regress on equate on. DC=99.0179+17.9023 log G -17.0543 log 2HG5+17.2104 log 2HG+35.7685 log 2HB+ 4.6082 log B-30.5906 log T+4.2308 log W 3. The contribution to the drape coefficient of the characteristic mixing values of peach skin-like finished fabric was in the order of > 2HB/W> 2HB/B> B/W The drape coefficients were found by measuring the characteristic mixing values according to the obtained regression equation. 4. The drape coefficients of peach skin-like finished fabrics were influenced by the differences between the bending of warp direction, bending of weft direction, shearing etc which in turn determine the level of hanging. The regression equation was as follows; 5. The drape coefficients of peach skin.like finished fabrics had a highly positive correlation with the node index. It has an negative correlation with number of nodes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.726-736
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to obtain the basal information for standard amount of clothing weight indoor climate and working condition with investigating seasonal changes of skin temperature and factors influencing on that in Koreans. Forty eight subjects in 5 age groups(6-11, 12-19, 20-44, 45-64, 65-76 years old) with both sexs were measured skin temperature indoor climate clothing microclimate clothing weight and skinfold thickness in neutral condition in each month throughout the year. The results obtained are summarized as follows : 1. Indoor climate koreans felt comfortable ranged 18.1-28.7$^{\circ}C$ and 51-74%RH. 2. Temperature inside the clothing ranged 30.8-32.3$^{\circ}C$ in males and 31.0-32.5$^{\circ}C$in females. There was a significant difference in temperature inside the clothing among age groups : That of 6019 age group was slightly higher than that at 45-76 age group. 3. Total clothing weight changed with season and increased in order of summer autumn spring and winter Total clothing weight of 65-76 age group was significantly greater on January and February. Breast skinfold thickness showed the smallest value in summer and the largest value in winter year. In addition to breast and abdomen skinfold thickness were larger in 45-67 age group while thigh skinfold thickness was larger in 6-19 age group. Skinfold thickness in females showed the smallest value in spring summer and the largest value in autumn and winter. In addition to triceps and suprailliac skinfold thickness were larger in 45-64 age group while thigh skinfold thickness was larger in 12-19 age goup. 5. Temperature of the lower limbs(hand, thigh. leg, and foot) showed significant correlation with the indoor temperature humidity inside clothing and total clothing weight. Temperature of the torso(breast and abdomen) showed significant correlation with the temperature inside clothing in all subjects. Abdomen skinfold thickness of all age group in male showed significant correlation with the abdomen skin temperature. triceps suprailliac and thigh skinfold thickness of 6-11 age group in female showed significant correation the upperarm abdomen and thigh skin temperature. Consequently clothing mdicroclimate total clothing weight and skinfold thickness showed significant difference in season sex and ages and had a slight effect on skin temperature.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.407-417
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to develop designs and patterns of a functional brassiere. For this purpose, women who have protruding and drooping breasts with 75B for their brassiere size were sampled. The fitting test for the fitness and function of test brassiere and control brassiere were carried out twice and compared the results from the both in terms of front, rear and side looks. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The results from measuring the level of sag and spread, and volume and protrusion of breasts shows that there are some distinctive differences in the measurements before and after wearing the test brassiere and the test brassiere is proved to be very effective in correcting breasts' shapes. 2. Front look: Since the two front cutting lines of the test brassiere served to have the curved main part pressing against the breasts, it could support breasts to more than satisfactory level. In addition, upperline panel and side panels of the test brassiere were found to have the upperline of the upper cup pressed against the breasts and at the same time it pressed and gathered the flab around upper part of the breasts and armpits that helped to rearrange the shape of the breasts. It is also proved that the two-pieced test brassier was found to be more functional in supporting the lower cup of the breasts. 3. Rear look: The test brassier was made up of two wide U-shaped wings with 2.5cm tape on its lower sides. Each wing has 4 lines and 3 hems (5.5cm). For this reason, the test brassiere was tighter and better fitted on its back. 4. Side look and entire look: The wings of the test brassiere might look wider than that of the control brassier which has conventional straight-shaped wings, but it was analyzed that the test brassiere held the upper and lower sides of the wings more effectively to be more pressed against the breast. Therefore, the test brassiere scored higher in terms of adjusting to body movements, while the control brassiere looked better in overall terms. 5. The functional brassier fur protruding and drooping breasts developed from the experiments of this study is a full side stretch brassiere which covers the entire breasts satisfactorily. The pattern drafting methods are suggested in to .

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권3_4호
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• pp.390-401
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• 2002

본 연구에서는 기성복의 맞음새와 치수체계에 따른 문제점을 제시하기 위하여 현재 시판되고 있는 여성복 재킷을 중심으로 사이즈별 각 패턴의 치수 및 공극량 분석을 실시하였으며 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 재킷에 대한 관능검사(self sensory test)결과, 패턴 B의 점수가 가장 낮았으며, 동일한 사이즈의 의복임에도 불구하고 재킷의 착용감은 유의적인 차이가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 2. 패턴 계측 결과 각 브랜드간의 패턴 그레이딩 량은 차이를 나타내어 동일한 사이즈임에도 불구하고 여유량이 서로 다르게 나타났으며, 수직방향보다는 수평방향의 증가량이 큰 것으로 나타났다. 3. 3D scanner를 이용하여 인체 및 착의인체를 스캔한 결과, 3차원 입체 형상으로 의복의 착의상태를 볼수 있으므로 2차원 정보를 얻을수 있는 사진촬영 결과에 비하여 활용성이 높으며 촬영거리에 따른 피사체의 왜곡이 없으므로 정확도가 높은 것으로 나타났다. 4. 패턴별 평균공극길이에 대한 유의성 검증 결과, B88사이즈의 허리부위를 제외한 모든 부위에서 유의성이 인정되지 않았으며 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 유의성 검증결과에서는 품, 배, 엉덩이부위에서 유의성이 인정되어 사이즈가 커질수록 이들 부분의 여유량 설정에 신중을 기하여야한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.689-698
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to develop the well-fitted brassieres by observing the changes in the breast sizes and shapes, the surface area and the volume of the breast through the arm movements of 3 types (0$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$ and 180$^{\circ}$) in vertical motion. The subjects are females, who are aged twenties and wearing a brassiere size 70B, In particular, to obtain the measures regarding the surface area and the volume of the breast, replicas are made at each motion. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The changes in the breast sizes and shapes at each motion By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to decrease: Shoulder length, Side neck point~B.P., Front neck point~B.P., Horizontal length of the cup, Upper bust circumference, Bust circumference, Upper bust depth, Bust depth, Under bust depth, Nipple to tipple breadth, Horizontal distance of bust, Bust height, Cup size. By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to increase: Center point of shoulder~B.P., Shoulder point~B.P., Armpit~ lowest point of breast drooping, Upper bust point~B.P., B.P~Under bust point, Under bust line, Width of gap between breast, Vertical distance of Bust. 2. The changes in the surface area and volume of breast at each motion By making the replica to observe changes in the surface area, which are sectioned to 4 parts(area 1 to area 4) , and volume of breast at each motion, the results are as follows: At 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: area2> areal> area4> area3. At 180$^{\circ}$, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: areal> area2> area4> area3. Through these orders, it is found that the upper and inside part of the breast has the inclination to increase so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. Also, the total surface area increases so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. The volume of the breast increase when the surface area of the breast increases. As a result of the F-test on the changes in the each surface areas, the surface area and volume by arm movements, the significant differences among the each surface areas and the surface area are not found.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.769-781
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• 1997

The purpose of this research is to show how to use the patternist's CAD system in order to make design patterns efficiantly. Using the PAD System Technologies company's PAD System Module, which is very officiant in designing patterns, the basic pattern or design pattern can be designed and applyed to the Sample Module, thus, then it could manufacture, retouch or choose a model, making it posible to go to the next level which is seam patterns for industrial use. By understanding the change of the design that is chosen through the design pattern making and Sample Module process', this study is presentated a plan on how to utilize the patternist's working adaption ability by the CAD system, and also considered the problems in using it. Ability of Design Confrontation of CAD System: 1) The result of an operation can be saved and retouched. On a saved list the patterns can be chosen and changed, thus, making it posible to complete a design very quickly. 2) When sewing every designed pattern in Sample Module, the model can be operated merely by selecting each sewing position, thus creating the same effect of a designer's muslin sample process in a much lesser time. Point at issue in the utilization CAD system: 1) When combining two darts into one place the amounts of darts that are already these have to be erasers, and then, the two darts points are moved that place, thus, containing them, which is very conplicated. 2) When making a gathering, because system can only be recognized in a opend line, the pattern should be separated in order to put a gathering inside a pattern. 3) In order to readjust the amounte of dart. The dart is erased first and then made new dart again. 4) When making tucks in a Sample Module, the form that gets narrow towards the pivot point can not be recognized so the sewing lines of the tucks is adjusted into parallel lines. 5) The Sample Module 3D operation can not attach the bodice to the shirts, instead they become fixed into each other. In the case of shoulder line tucks the amounts of pleats can not be expanded draperary naturally, thus, making it hard to showing the silhouette accurately. If these problems are solved, especially if the silhouette of a model can be created to have natural drapery in the 3D Module, models can be shown on the screen in possible to compare and examine even a change of a detail, by designing this 3D Module Production sample process will be more effective, thus, making the CAD system more useful in sewing design process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권10호
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• pp.1695-1706
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• 2001

본 연구는 조선시대 남자 포제(포제에 나타난 복식이미지의 구성요인을 밝히고 남자포제 유형별(철릭, 답호, 직령, 도포, 창의, 주의), 시기별(전기, 중기, 후기) 복식이미지를 알아봄으로서 조선시대 남자포제가 가진 복식이미지를 밝혀 현대 전통복식 디자인에 응용될 수 있는 기초적인 자료를 제공하고자 한다. 의복 자극물은 남자 평상복을 중심으로 하여 조선초기(1477년∼1543년)의 남자 포제로는 철릭, 답호, 직령 3점과 조선중기(18세기)는 도포, 창의 2점, 조선후기(17세기 후기∼20세기 초)는 주의 1점으로 하였고, 당 시대의 정화한 복식이미지를 살펴보기 위해 유물을 복원 제작하여 사용하였다. 이것을 모델에게 착장시켜 슬라이드로 제작한 후 자극물로 제시하였다. 의미지분척도외 구성은 자유언어연상법으로 형용사를 수집하여 23쌍의 형용사쌍을 구성하였다. 패널단은 대학생 남·여 총 600명으로 하였고 자료분석은 SAS을 이용하여 요인분석 분산분석 등을 사용하였다. 1. 조선시대 남자 포제의 요인구조는 품위성 요인(25.2%), 활동성 요인(l4.2%), 관할성 요인(37.9%), 현시성 요인(6.7%), 경연성 요인(5.7%)으로 구성되었으며, 이들 5개 요인의 전체변량 62.7% 중에서 품위성 요인, 활동성 요인, 관할성 요인이 전체변량의 50%를 넘어서 이 세 요인이 남자 포제에서 기본적으로 느껴지는 중요한 요인임을 알 수 있다. 2. 조선시대 남자 포제 유형별 복식이미지의 차이를 알아본 결과, 철릭은 가장 부자연스러운, 주름있는, 곡선적인, 부드러운, 특이한 이미지의 포제로 나타났으며, 답호는 가장 절제된, 직선적인 딱딱한, 특이한 이미지로, 직령은 가장 비활동적인, 답답한, 전통적인 이미지로 도포는 가장 품위있는. 관할한 이미지로 창의는 다른 포제에 비해 평범한, 단순한, 이미지로 주의는 가장 품위 없는, 일상적인, 활동적인, 단순한, 순수한 이미지의 포제로 평가되었다. 모든 남자포제가 전통적, 순수한 이미지의 포제로, 철릭을 제외한 모든 포제가 단순한 이미지로 나타나 조선시대 남자 포제가 공통적으로 가지는 이미지는 단순하고 순수한 이미지를 가지고 있음을 알 수 있다. 3. 남자 포제의 시기별 복식이미지에서는 조선전기(철릭, 답호, 직령)의 포제는 관할성 요인이 높은 의례적인, 관할한, 특이한 이미지로 평가되었고 조선중기(도포, 창의)의 포제는 품위있는, 절제된, 풍성한 이미지로 평가되었으며, 조선후기(주의)의 포제는 활동적인, 단순한, 직선적인 이미지로 나타났다. 따라서 시대별 남자 포제의 이미지는 시대적 여건과 상황에 따라 변화되어 왔으며, 시대에 따라 추구하는 이미지가 달랐다는 것을 알 수 있다.