• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.109-118
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• 2020

In recent years, the needs of consumers for personality and personalized clothing are increasing. Knitting machines, which produce clothing by the user at low cost, are a good way to meet consumer demand. However, the user is having difficulty in using the knitting machine pattern program, which is a software program, independently of the operation of the knitting machine. Therefore, this study conducted a literature review prior to the empirical research and evaluated the usability by selecting three kinds of frequently used knitting machine pattern programs as research subjects. Based on the nine usability evaluation principles derived from expert group discussions, the study found that the needs of users for nine evaluation principles: visibility, conciseness, operability, consistency, accuracy, flexibility, intuition, error recognition, and supplementary explanation (The purpose of this study is to identify the direction and alternatives of usability improvement for the interface of the knitting machine pattern program.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.269-278
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• 2011

This study aims at setting up productive capacity which can be usefully utilized for work management of apparel manufacturers. So as to achieve this goal, an apparel manufacturing company which has been operated by miniline system in Seoul was selected. Standard time and man-hour were calculated to create the accurate productive capacity by observing and measuring a work flow included cutting, sewing and finishing processes. And the result is as following. The standard time for each process was presented as cutting process 47004.5s, sewing process 671050.5s and finishing process 22426.3s. And 15284.4ms was computed as total procession man-hour per day of the manufacturer which is organized of 16 people. Also, the procession man-hour for each process was revealed as cutting process 396.7ms(2.6%), sewing process 14509.3ms(94.9%) and finishing process 378.5ms(2.5%). +Surplus was found in the productivity for each process included the cutting process(outshell, lining and seam process), the sewing process(preparation and arrangement process) and the finishing process. But, additional man-hour 52436.18ms was required because the productive capacity was calculated as -surplus(-13.9%) in the sewing process(part and assembly process). Therefore, a work schedule was planned based on the previous result. However, loading can be ideal when a capacity and a load become '0'. The object company should find the way to reduce allowance(26.25%) of the sewing process through reconstruction of consciousness and improvement in functions with analyzing works of operators. Also, they need to consider an additional supplement of the personnel.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.289-304
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• 1998

In Korean clothing industry, most of the manufactures produce garments by subcon-tractors partially or entirely. It is very often that the design part is remote from production part and there is miscommunication between these two parts resulting dissatisfaction to both. Therefore it is very important to communicate the manufacturing information clearly and quickly to produce garments exactly the design part intended. Also to automate the clothing out how to produce and use the information objectively and efficiently. As a first step of moving to automation, the purpose of the research is to find out how manufacturing information and data are communicated in clothing manufacturing at present. In order to follow the information flow of a cer-tain manufacturer, the case study method was used. The case study samples were 12 clothing firms of 13 brands. The results and suggestions are as follows :- 1. A manufacturing information is communicated through paper documents such as“Production Order”, sample and patterns. At present, a production order sheet is the most efficient communication media, which comprises most of the information being communicated. 2. A manufacturing information comprises control information on the product, design in-formation, pattern information, cutting information, material information, sewing information, production schedule information, quality control information, costing information and information about the subcontractors. 3. A manufacturing is not quite objective except pattern information and cutting information which is presented by CAD systems. The communication of design information and sewing information should be somehow more objective. 4. There is not much information from a subcontractor. Considering that a subcontractor is the other partener of the communication, more information from the subcontractor is required for both benefit. 5. A designer produce most of the manufacturing information, but the information is communicated through a production manager to the subcontractor. The difference between the information maker and information communicator can cause any miscommunication. In future automated manufacturing, it will be possible for the designer to communicate to the manufacturer directly from the early stage of designing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.635-644
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• 2014

This study provides basic reference data for brassiere wearing conditions, design preferences of new silver women (50s-60s) and development of brassiere products. We compiled and compared 163 pieces of brassiere (considering of 105 domestic general brassieres and 58 foreign silver brassieres) analyzed using SPSS Statistics 21 program. A survey was then conducted on the actual wearing, purchasing conditions, design preferences for 176 females (50s-60s). The result of this study are as follows: First, comparing actual product conditions (domestic general products and foreign silver products), the ratio of full cup in cup height, V-shape type in neckline shape, long type in front-end length, wide type in wing width, U-shape type in shoulder strap form, wide type in shoulder strap width, no-wire brassieres in breast wire type, all-in-one type in shoulder strap separation, back type in closure type appeared higher than other types of brassiere in domestic general product. Second, a study also showed that 60s women's wearing time is lower than 50s women's; however, 60s women expressed a higher figure and preference for the purchasing ratio in the department store, full cup in cup height, short type in length of brassieres, wide type in wing width, U-shape in shoulder strap form, small type in shoulder strap width, back type in closure type and no-wire brassieres than those in their 50s. It was found they prefer fabric with a high natural content, nude tone color without decoration & pattern and camisole brassieres.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.445-454
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• 2008

The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.256-267
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• 2013

This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.317-325
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to examine clothing businesses which are using dress forms and grasp the problems in apparel manufacturing process, to verify the size and shape of the dress forms for uniformity, to ascertain the uniformity between the dress forms being sold today and the somatotype of the target consumers. The following results were obtained. First, most of the clothing businesses used the existing dress forms in the company. The dress forms didn't reflect the somatotype of the current consumers. And the users satisfaction was below the average. Second, the size and shape of the dress forms being sold today had lack of uniformity between themselves. Third, the dress forms didn't reflect the shape characteristics as well as the size of the target consumers. Consequently, The dress forms need to have the following. First, It is necessary that the dress forms have various functions in a dress form in the future. Second, to get high satisfaction of clothing fit, we need to build up the data base of the consumers somatotype. The data base have to consist of not only circumference but also width, thickness, angle of the current consumers. Last, the further studies of the dress forms need to meet the clothing businesses demand.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.294-306
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is a men's dress shirt pattern by somatotype for mass customization system that is rising to the surface as a new production system. Subjects were 65 men aged from 25 to 44 for making research pattern and 9 men for wearing test. The dress shirt went through the secondary wearing test and sensory evaluation to verify the propriety of the research pattern. The results were as follows: For making research dress shirts pattern used the body parts size that were height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference. The waist back length, the waist to hip length and the pattern length of were set by the calculation formula based on the height. The ease of 16cm for the chest circumference and A type had the ease of 10cm for the waist circumference, Y type had the ease of 8cm and B type had 12cm. Through the wearing test, the research pattern showed significant difference from the comparative patterns so additional two items of the length between biacromion and waist circumference were added to the items used in the comparative patterns through which satisfactory results were obtained. In the secondary wearing test for the dress shirt, all the items, except for the front centerline, were evaluated excellent. As a result of evaluating by the figure type, the normal type was evaluated best in all the items.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.