• Title/Summary/Keyword: 용포

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Ch'ing Dragon Robes (청조의 용포소고)

  • 박춘순;김재임
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.3
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    • pp.59-72
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    • 2000
  • Dragon robe was defined as a robe on which the principal design consisted of dragon. Dragon patterns have been used on princess robes during T'and Dynasty. In Sung, Dragon-figured robes seem to have an Imperial prerogative. Yuan took over the use of robes with dragons patterns as a definite institition. Ming tried to reject all Yuan innovations, the dragon robe was retained as an unofficial court costume. The Emperor's semiformal robes which at first had four dragon medallions, later had twelve along with the 12 Symbols(십이장문). As Ch'ing dragon robes were only intended fro semiformal use. The Later Ch'ing robes date from after 1719, when the Ch'ien-lung(건륭) introduced 12 Symbols on Ch'ing robes. The Ch'ien-lung laws were disobeyed, notably the ones that specified the number of claws on the dragons. THe Emperor's dragon robe, lung-p'ao, (용포) was described as bright yellow in color, having four slits and horsefoof cuffs. The basic pattern consisted of nin dragons, in addition it had 12 Symbols. The elaborate textile techniques reached their peak in Ch'ing Dynasty-with its Weaving and Dyeing Office in Peking, and this factories at Hangchow(항주), Soochow(소주), and Naking(남경) -helps to explain why the decay of the Ch'ing bureaucracy hastended the decline of dragon robes. In the Ch'ing Dynasty tow terms were used for dragon robe, depending on the number of claws on the dragons. Those with five-clawed dragons were called lung-p'ao, while those with four-clawed dragons were called mang-p'ao(망포). The Court felt compelled to take corrective meausres. It decreeed that Ninisters of State and other officials, who had been bestowed five-clawed lung dragons, must take out one claw. Finally, the sale of ranks and the attendant privilege of wearing dragon robes gradually increased during the 18 th century, reaching its height in the 19 th century, Finally, after the Taiping Rebellion, when the Imperial Treasury was depleted by the wholesale destruction of revenue-producing lands, the Chinese government came to depend on such sales as an important source of revenue and the practice became even more widespread. The ensuing mass production of dragon robes, and the necessity of conforming to the fairly rigid basic pattern established in 1759, resulted in marked deterioration of workmanship, and a comparative monotony of decoration. The patterns on the dragon robes slight changes continued to be made in the ways of representign them. The li shui (입수) portion at the base of the robe become inreasingly wider throughout the 19th century. The background became cluttered with symbols of good fortune, scattered among the clouds and waves. As a result of all this extraneous decoration, the dragons were so crowded that they had to shrink back into the small size that they had originally occupied in the medallons. Kuang-hsu(광저) was a long one, allowing time for the manufacture of numerous robes. Also, it would seem likely that Occidental museums and collections would have a considerable number of his robes, in view of the widespread looting of his palaces during the Allied occupation of Peking in 1900, and the frequent sales of Late Ch'ing imperial textiles by destitute Manchu courtiers in the '20's.

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A Study on the Rank System of Official Uniforms of Qing Dynasty (청조 관복제도의 등급체계에 관한 연구 (제1보))

  • 박현정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.17-34
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    • 2003
  • This paper investigates the rank system of official uniforms of Qing dynasty to analyze ethnic characteristics of the official uniforms. As a research document, Qing Huidian Tu(청회전도) has been used. The official uniforms of Qing dynasty were chao-fu(조복), ji-fu(길복), chang-fu(상복), hang-fu(행복), and yu-fu(우복), which were used in different occasions. Each of the five official uniforms had distinct items. For example, chao-fu(조복) consisted of four items: chao-guan(조관), chao-fu(조복), chao-dai(조대), and chao-zhu(조주), and ji-fu(길복) consisted of four items: ji-fu-guan(길복관), long-pao(용포), ji-fu-dai(길복대), and chao-zhu(조주). Each of these items had elements that made distinction between ranks. This research shows that the important elements to make distinction between ranks were textiles, precious stones, patterns and colors, and additionally the number of Bo(보) and the types of Bo(보) were used.

Changes in the Ceremonial Dresses for Children's First Birthday Since 1945 (광복이후 첫돌 복식의 변천)

  • Ji, Yoon-Young;Hong, Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.9
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    • pp.1681-1692
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구는 광복 이후 현재까지 첫돌 복식 변화를 시대적으로 고찰, 그 변화 양상과 영 향 요인을 규명하는 것을 목적으로 하고 있다. 연구 방법은 문헌 고찰과 사진 자료를 통한 내용 분석을 주로 하였다. 더불어 자료의 보충을 위해 첫돌 의례와 관련된 주변 인물들-가족, 기성 아동 한복 유통 상인, 상업적 사진사 등-의 면접 조사도 병행하였다. 이상의 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1940년대 중반∼50년대 초에는 해방 이후 혼란과 전란으로 인한 물자의 부족으로 첫돌 의례의 명분은 남아있으나 복식 문화는 공백기를 맞는다. 1950년대 중반이후 60년대 전반기는 미국의 경제 원조와 섬유 공업 활성화로 의료의 공급이 원활하여 전기에 비해 의례적 의미를 지닌 첫돌 복식의 착용이 가능해 졌다. 전통 한복을 기본으로 한 위에 서양식 복식 품목들이 섞여서 나타나고 있다 60년대 후반에서 1970년대의 두드러진 양상은 기성복 산업 의 발달로 전문적 인 기성복 시장이 형성되었고 이는 기성복화 된 첫돌 복식의 일습 개념을 등장시키게 하였다. 또한 한복이 예복화 되는 경 향이 두드러지게 나타났던 시기로 70년대 후반의 칼라 필름의 보급은 금박과 자수와 같은 다양한 재료와 재단 방법을 사용한 장식화 된 첫돌 복식의 사용을 가속화 시 켰다. 특히 70년대 중반에 소수의 일반에게 입혀졌던 궁중복식의 하나인 당의가 소매없는 당의로 바뀌어 여아의 돌옷으로 입혀지기 시작하였다. 1980년대 전반기는 칼라 TV의 보급, 비디오 촬영의 보편화로 한복이던 양복이던 일습화 된 첫돌 복식이 대중적으로 정착하게 되었다. 후반기에는 국내의 국제적인 행사의 유치와 전통 복식 소개를 위한 전시들을 계기로 왕실 복식에 대한 관심이 고조되었다. 이로 인해 여아에게 소매없는 당의를 입히고 남아에게 용포를 입히는 유행이 가속화되었다. 또한 서양식 예복을 입히는 유행이 시작되었다. 90년대에 들어와 아기 전문사진점의 등장은 1 회적인 첫돌 의례에 한복과 서양식 예복, 일상복 등을 다양하게 착용시키는 계기를 가져오게 하였다. 이상과 같은 다양한 변화 양상에도 불구하고 첫돌을 기념하기 위해 특별한 옷을 마련하고자 했으며, 그 복식의 구성 이 전통적인 일습 개념을 꾸준히 지향해 온 경향을 보여주고 있다. 반면 최근 과열된 아동 산업은 보다 다양한 복식을 입혀서 촬영한 사진으로 특별하게 꾸민 상업적인 기념물들을 남겨주게 하고 있다. 비록 특별한 옷을 준비하여 아동에게 입히는 행위는 유사한 표현 양태이나 지나치게 많은 옷을 갈아 입히는 표현 방식은 지양되어야할 것이다

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Estimation of Optimal Empirical Equations based on Sediments of Ageing Reservoir Estimated Using Autonomous Navigation USV (자율항법 무인측량선을 이용하여 산정된 노후저수지의 퇴사량 기준 최적경험식 산정)

  • Won, Chang-Hee;Yoon, HyeonCheol;kim, Won-Beom
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2020
  • Acritical function of a nation is to protect its people's lives and properties from natural disasters such as a drought. A drought affects many aspects of human life, including social, economic, and industrial activities. Approximately 75.7% of reservoirs in Korea are over 50 years old.Sedimentation over the years may have caused a situation where storage capacity of the reservoirs is no longer sufficient and compliant with the original reservoir specifications. This study analyzes storage capacities for ten aged reservoirs using the autonomous navigation USV. It compares these capacities with sediment estimated by conventional empirical equations. Comparisons were made to the original specifications for the reservoirs.Storage capacity of six reservoirs decreased in a range between 16.2%-55.3% and storage capacity of 4 reservoirs increased in a range between 1.5%-380.2%. This data was compared to data derived from estimating sediment by empirical equations. Yoon's equation(1982) appeared more accurate than Sur's equation(1988) in Uhlinzi and Yongpo reservoirs, and Sur's equation(1988), however, appeared more accurate than Yoon's equation in Daegok, Ugok2 and Ochi reservoirs. The significant ranges of sedimentation shown in this study suggest that it is worth continuously surveying reservoirs to ensure their efficient management and operation.

Comparison of Labour and Growth Characters of Grape cv. 'Campbell Early' between Wakeman and Modified-T Trellis Training Systems (포도 '캠벨얼리'의 웨이크만과 개량일자형 수형에서의 노동력과 생장특성 비교)

  • Park, Seo-Jun;Cho, Eun-Kyung;Kim, Su-Jin;Hur, Youn-Young;Nam, Jong-Chul;Park, Jeong-Kwan;Hwang, Hae-Sung;Jung, Sung-Min
    • Journal of Bio-Environment Control
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    • v.25 no.3
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    • pp.206-211
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    • 2016
  • Modified T trellis (MT) and Wakeman trellis (WT) were widely used Korean vineyard because they had an advantage for spur pruning type cultivar such as Campbell Early. In this experiment, we compared labor time and intensity for bunch management between MT and WT trellis systems in 'Campbell Early' grapes. As a result, berry thinning was required 17.3 hours (10a) on the WT trellis but was required 12.3 hours (10a) on the MT trellis. In like manner, bagging was required 10.1 hours (10a) on the WT trellis but was required 8.2 hours (10a) on the MT trellis. On the other hand, labor intensity measured on berry thinning and bagging practices using REBA (Rapid Entire Body Assessment) index, then WT trellis was scored 13.0, but MT trellis was scored 8.6. Meanwhile, MT trellis reduced vigorous growing of internodes length and width on grapevine shoots. Consequently, MT trellis is more convenience trellis for working ergonomically in Korea vineyard.