• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2019.11a
• /
• pp.153-154
• /
• 2019

본 연구에서는 일본 기상청(JMA)에서 제공하는 JMA-MSM (Meso-Scale Model) 바람장을 SWAN 모델에 입력자료로 적용하여 파랑전파를 모의하였다. 영역은 심해역·중간역·연안역으로 설정하였다. 산출된 모델링의 결과는 관측자료와 비교·검증하여 모델 구축에 대한 신뢰성을 확보하였다. 그리고 연안역에서 SWAN모델의 파랑스펙트럼정보를 입력조건으로 하는 SWASH모델의 영역을 구축하여 두 모델간 파랑전파양상을 비교하였다. SWAN(phase-averaged) 모델과 SWASH(phase-resolving) 모델은 지배방정식의 차이에 따라 파랑의 위상처리 방식 등의 차이가 있다. 이로 인한 연안역에서의 파랑전파양상의 차이를 비교하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 2001

Wave-induced currents drive nearshore transport processes, and hence an accurate understanding of wave-current interaction is required for proper management of coastal zone. This paper presents details of an adaptive quadtree grid based numerical model of the coupled wave climate and depth-averaged current field. The model accounts for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes, bottom friction effects, and movement of land-water interface at the shoreline. The wave period- and depth-averaged governing equations arc discrctized explicitly by means of an Adarns¬Bashforth second-order finite difference technique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Results from the numerical model are in reasonable agreement with the laboratory data of longshore current generated by oblique waves on a plane beach (Visser 1980, 1991).

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
• /
• v.40 no.3
• /
• pp.259-271
• /
• 2019

A statistical downscaling method was adopted in order to establish the high-resolution wave prediction system in the East Sea coastal area. This system used forecast data from the Global Wave Watch (GWW) model, and the East Sea and Busan Coastal Wave Watch (CWW) model operated by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). We used the CWW forecast data until three days and the GWW forecast data from three to seven days to implement the statistical downscaling method (inverse distance weight interpolation and conditional merge). The two-dimensional and station wave heights as well as sea surface wind speed from the high-resolution coastal prediction system were verified with statistical analysis, using an initial analysis field and oceanic observation with buoys carried out by the KMA and the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA). Similar to the predictive performance of the GWW and the CWW data, the system has a high predictive performance at the initial stages that decreased gradually with forecast time. As a result, during the entire prediction period, the correlation coefficient and root mean square error of the predicted wave heights improved from 0.46 and 0.34 m to 0.6 and 0.28 m before and after applying the statistical downscaling method.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
• /
• v.25 no.5
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2019

In this paper, we propose a video enhancement method using generative adversarial networks to remove raindrops and restore the background information on the removed region in the coastal wave video imagery distorted by raindrops during rainfall. Two experimental models are implemented: Pix2Pix network widely used for image-to-image translation and Attentive GAN, which is currently performing well for raindrop removal on a single images. The models are trained with a public dataset of paired natural images with and without raindrops and the trained models are evaluated their performance of raindrop removal and background information recovery of rainwater distortion of coastal wave video imagery. In order to improve the performance, we have acquired paired video dataset with and without raindrops at the real coast and conducted transfer learning to the pre-trained models with those new dataset. The performance of fine-tuned models is improved by comparing the results from pre-trained models. The performance is evaluated using the peak signal-to-noise ratio and structural similarity index and the fine-tuned Pix2Pix network by transfer learning shows the best performance to reconstruct distorted coastal wave video imagery by raindrops.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.34 no.6
• /
• pp.188-197
• /
• 2022

We develop a coastal wave forecasting system by using the unstructured grid based on sea wind data of Global Data Assimilation and Prediction System. The verification is performed to examine the performance and accuracy of the wave model. Since the conventional grid has limited wave forecasting on complex coastlines and bathymetry, the unstructured grid system is applied for precise numerical simulation, and applicability for operational support is evaluated. Both grid systems show similar prediction trends in offshore and coastal areas, and the difference in prediction errors according to the grid system is not large. In addition, the applicability of the operational wave forecasting system is confirmed by dramatically reducing the model execution time of the unstructured grid under the same conditions.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.151-158
• /
• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2016.05a
• /
• pp.476-476
• /
• 2016

근래 들어 우리나라 동해안에서 이상고파라 불리는 너울성 고파가 자주 발생하여 상당한 인명 피해를 야기하는 등 사회적으로 큰 이슈가 되고 있다. 이상고파는 일반적으로 동해상에서 발달한 강한 저기압에 의해 발생한 고파가 상대적으로 주기가 긴 너울의 특성을 띄며 우리나라 연안에 도달하여 피해를 발생시키는 것으로 알려져 있으며, 연안에 해상상태가 잦아지는 상황에서 갑작스럽게 전파되어 오기 때문에 많은 인명피해가 발생하게 된다. 현재 미국 등의 해양예보 선진국들은 파랑모델을 운용하여 너울을 포함한 파랑예보를 수행하고 있으며, 해상부이 등의 다양한 파랑관측을 통해 그 성능을 향상시키고 있다. 우리나라에서도 선진 해양예보시스템을 활용하여 이상고파를 예측하고자 하는 연구의 필요성이 제기되고 있으며 정부 관련 부처를 중심으로 그에 대한 연구가 점차 진행되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 파랑모델을 활용하여 기존에 발생한 이상고파 피해사례에 대한 후측모의를 수행하고 우리나라에서 발생하는 이상고파의 발달과정을 분석하였다. 또한, 파랑모델의 후측모의 결과를 관측자료와 비교하여 모델의 성능을 검증하고 문제점을 분석하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.30 no.5
• /
• pp.223-233
• /
• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.87-94
• /
• 1996

Random wave breaking is one of the most important phenomena in coastal engineering. For two and half decades, various models have been proposed to predict wave height variations in the surf zone. However, some models are applicable to plane beaches only, some requires clumsy computation for a joint probability density of wave heights and periods, and some others need calibration with individual wave data. The present study aims at formulating a model simple enough but reasonably accurate. The merits of the present model are as follows: It is applicable to any shapes of bottom profiles; It requires the input data of incident wave heights and periods only without necessity of coefficient calibration with field data; and its computation time is minimal because it deals with representative waves directly.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 1992.08a
• /
• pp.90-90
• /
• 1992

원해에서 파랑이 천해로 진행할 때 수심의 변화와 마찬가지로 조류에 의해서도 파랑 스펙트럼이 변환된다. 조류에 의해 파랑 스펙트럼의 변환을 정확히 추정하는 수치 모델의 개발은 우리나라 서해안과 같이 조류가 큰 해안에서 해상상태의 추정에 중요한 과제이다.(중략)