• Title/Summary/Keyword: 여성복 재킷

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Pattern Making Method and Design of Power Shoulder Jackets (파워 숄더 재킷의 디자인 및 패턴전개 방법)

  • Park, Sanghee;Lee, Eunhae
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.13 no.7
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    • pp.131-140
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    • 2013
  • Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.

A Study on Design Trends of Tailored Jacket in Contemporary Women's Collection -Focused on Constructive Elements of Jacket- (현대 여성복 컬렉션에 나타난 테일러드 재킷의 디자인 경향에 관한 연구 -재킷의 구성 요소를 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Kyung-A
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.21 no.5
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    • pp.552-563
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    • 2019
  • Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

A Study on the Comparative Evaluation of wearing Fitness of Women′s Ready-made Jackets Using 3D Scanner (3D Scanner를 이용한 여성용 기성복 재킷의 착의적합성에 관한 비교평가연구)

  • Kim, Haekyung;Eunyoung Suk;Park, Soonjee;Chuyeon Suh;Jiyoung Lim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.10
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    • pp.1707-1718
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구 목적은 3차원 인체 스캐너를 이용하여 여자 기성복 재킷의 여유량을 비교, 분석하는 것으로, 2사이즈 7브랜드의 재킷의 공극량을 계측하여 분석하였다. 첫째, 재킷 단면둘레 분석 결과, B85(품), B8(허리)를 제외하고 브랜드간에 유의한 차이를 나타내지 않아, 전반적으로, 브랜드간 제품치수에는 차이가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 인체와 재킷의 단면둘레 분석 결과, 재킷의 배둘레를 제외한 모든 항목에서 유의한 차이가 나타나 피험자, 재킷 모두 사이즈에 따라 유의적인 차이 가 있음을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 기본사이즈 B85에서는 허리를 제외하고는 패턴 F가 가장 여유량이 많은 것으로 나타났으나, B88의 경우, 부위별로 각기 다른 패턴에서 여유량이 가장 많은 것으로 나타나, 각 부분마다 브랜드별로 그레이딩 룰이 다름을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 착의 단면은 인체와 의복간의 여유량 분포를 명백히 보여주며, 어깨, 가슴, 엉덩이처럼 몸에 밀착되는 부위는 다른 부위에 비해 패턴간, 각도별 변이가 적은 것으로 나타났다. 품, 허리, 배에서는 옆보다는 앞, 뒤로, 가슴에서는 앞뒤 좌우의 30$^{\circ}$방향, 엉덩이의 경우, 옆, 뒤보다는 앞쪽에 여유량이 집중되어 있는 것으로 나타났다. 다섯째, 브랜드별 평균공극길이에 대한 분산분석 결과, 전반적으로 패턴 F가 가장 공극량이 많고, 패턴 D가 작은 것으로 나타났다. 여섯째, 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 t-검정 결과, 품과 배 부분에서, B88이 B85보다 공극량이 적은 것으로 나타나, 기준부위인 가슴, 허리, 엉덩이 부분뿐만 아니라 품, 배둘레의 치수에 대응할 수 있도록 그레이딩 룰 값을 산정하여야 함을 알 수 있다.

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Study on Manufacturing Exaggerated Jacket Pattern Shown in Women's Collections 2011 F/W (2011 F/W 여성복컬렉션에서 나타난 과장형 재킷패턴제작 연구)

  • Lee, Se-Jong;Kwak, Tai-Gi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.5
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    • pp.138-155
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    • 2012
  • Exaggerations have always been seen in the past and present. In the past, they represented wealth and high social status, but now they are being used to express one's beauty and personality. This has led to the diversity in design through widening each person's emotions. Likewise, exaggerations have been changed from the past to the present and so will they in the future. This study focuses on proposing patterns to enhance the utility and practical use of exaggerated jacket designs and its methods are based on documents and preceded studies. Pattern making is composed of drawing patterns and showing their forms by basting - which are a technique that is explained in this study's outcome - and the basic pattern is the style of Wan Suk. Suh. Jackets are made with exaggerating factors in the women's collections of 2011 F/W and are designed for various ages. With the knowledge of structuring a jacket, anyone could easily follow the instructions. In the end, he/she could elevate the ability to express, use practically and apply this idea in general fields of fashion industry.

Plus-size여성 체형을 위한 재킷원형 개발 및 면 분할에 따른 시각적 효과에 관한 연구

  • 정동림;김애린
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.34-34
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    • 2003
  • 본 연구는 체형의 특성이 현저히 나타나는 40~50대의 Plus-size 여성을 대상으로 체형의 특징이 고려된 치수체계에 대해 맞음새가 우수한 재킷을 개발하고, 이 원형을 토대로 하여 체형의 단점을 보완할 시각적 효과를 연구하기 위해 Plus-size에 해당하는 여성을 선정하여 수트(suit)를 제작한 후 착의 평가하여 Plus-size에 적합한 수트를 제안하는데 목적을 두고 있다. 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. Plus-size 여성의 착용실태를 파악하기 위해 실시한 착용실태 조사는 판매자의 측면의 심층면접과 소비자 측면의 착장조사로 구분하여 조사하고 분석하였다. 착용실태조사 결과, Plus-size 여성은 의복구매시 맞음새와 편안함을 중시하고 상완부와 어깨의 두께, 가슴둘레와 복부의 비만등의 체형단점을 갖게 되므로 판매자측에서는 의복제도 시에 등품, 앞품, 상완부, 복부의 여유분을 고려하고 있었다. 시각적 효과로는 세미피트 스타일의 프린세스 라인과 허리선+20, 30cm의 재킷길이, 그리고 테일러드 칼라, 스테인 칼라, 라운드 네크라인이 판매자과 소비자의 양측면에서 선호되고 있었다. 2. Plus-size 여성의 체형에 맞음새가 우수한 재킷원형을 개발하기 위해 Plus-size 여성복의 재킷 원형 중 4종의 기존원형을 선정하고, 착의 피험자 3인을 대상으로 3차에 걸친 착의실험을 통해 연구 원형을 개발하고 평가단을 구성해 객관적인 평가 33문항에 대한 외관 관능검사를 실시하였다. 1) 가슴둘레 여유분을 8~9cm, 허리둘레 여유분을 6~7cm, 엉덩이둘레 여유분을 6~8cm로 적용하여 맞음새를 향상시켜 날씬해 보이는 효과를 높였다. 2) 진동깊이 계산식은 (B/10+10.5)+2cm 적용하고, 진동두께 계산식은 (B/8-1.5)+2cm를 적용함으로써 진동깊이와 진동두께의 편차가 작아짐으로 인해 소매부위와 진동부위의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 3) 가슴둘레의 증가에 따라 등길이에 앞길이 치수를 증가시키는 계산식을 설정하여 앞가슴둘레의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 4) Plus-size여성의 경우 허리부분의 신체적합성을 높이기 위하여 사이드 판넬(side panel)의 재킷원형으로 하였다. 앞 허리와 배 부분의 지방 침착이 크므로 앞 허리둘레 다아트 폭과 앞판 사이드 판넬(side panel) 솔기 다아트 폭을 작게 설정하고, 뒤판 사이드 판넬 솔기 폭을 크게 설정하였다. 5) 어깨끝점 사이길이는 다른 부위의 체지방 침착과 같이 비례적으로 증가하지 않으므로 표준체형에 비해 좁게 설정하였다.

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A Study of Fit Preference Satisfaction for the National Women's Wear Brand Jackets (국내 여성복 브랜드재킷의 맞음새 평가 연구)

  • Seo, Wan-Seuk;Kim, Suk-Jin
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.15-29
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    • 2014
  • Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).

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A Study on the Evaluation of Ready-Made Jacket for Women according to Pattern Size Using 3D Scanner (3D scanner를 이용한 여성복 재킷의 패턴 사이즈에 따른 착의평가 연구)

  • 서추연
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.26 no.3_4
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    • pp.390-401
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    • 2002
  • This study was to evaluate the fitness and the suitability of size specification of the ready made jacket for women by analysing pattern size and space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner. The results were as follows: 1. Pattern B had the lowest score and the feeling of wearing was significantly different among the given patterns even though all jacket size specification were the same. 2. Ease amount was different between each brand even though the jacket size specification was the same due to the different pattern grading rules. And increasing grading amounts were bigger in horizontal direction rather than in vertical direction. 3. We could obtain accurate a 3 dimensional figure, using 3D scanner which was very useful and more accurate than 2 dimensional data using photography method. 4. Analyzing the average space between skin and clothing of each pattern, there was no significant difference in the average space between skin and clothing among all patterns except waist part of B88 size. And analyzing the average space between skin and clothing of each measured body parts by each size, there existed a significant difference in the interscye, abdomen and hip parts.

An analysis of the production conditions for small-sized women's jacket products - Focusing on young contemporary brands for spring/summer 2021 - (여성복 스몰사이즈 재킷 제품 생산실태- 2021년 S/S 영컨템포러리 브랜드를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Yujin;Jang, Jeongah
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.29 no.6
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    • pp.849-864
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    • 2021
  • This study analyzed product conditions in terms of "size system," "clothing construction depending on fit," "details," "colors," and "prices," with an emphasis on young contemporary brands for spring/summer 2021, in order to provide basic data for the development of small-sized women's jackets. Out of 96 domestic and foreign brands, the study analyzed 254 small-sized jacket products from 23 brands that produce size-XS jackets. First, when examining the sizes for women's jackets, we found that 8 out of the 23 brands offer a size-XXS option. After conducting tree analysis to analyze the factors affecting the production of size-XXS, the study found significant results in the areas of "distinction between domestic and foreign brands" and "product price." Second, after categorizing small-sized women's jackets into 3 categories-fit-slim, basic, and straight-the study analyzed clothing construction elements depending on fit. This seasons mainly feature straight-fit's hip-line length jacket, a 4-panel pattern, and a panel without a waist dart. Third, the study, through the analysis of the colors of small-sized women's jackets, found a higher frequency of colors in the order of black (23.0%), white (13.3%), and beige tones (10.1%), with additional colors such as sky blue, rose pink, and aquamarine in production, which exhibit the senses of the seasons. Price analysis revealed that small-sized jackets constituted a price range at the mid-to-low end, as in ₩50,000-100,000 (30.3%), ₩100,000-150,000 (19.3%), and ₩150,000-200,000 (11.8%).