• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권12호
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• pp.1608-1618
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• 2005

본 연구는 꼭두서니와 그 표준 색소인 알리자린으로 염색한 직물에 조건적 퇴화를 유도하고, 가스 크로마토그라피 질량분석기(GC-MS)를 이용해 퇴화물을 분석하여 이를 선행연구에서 밝혀진 표준 알리자린 색소의 퇴화물과 비교함으로써 대조구로서의 꼭두서니 염료의 정보를 완성하는데 그 목적을 둔다. 아울러 퇴화 전후 염직물의 색차를 측정하여 조건퇴화에 따른 색의 변화를 조사하였다. 퇴화조건은 상온 (RT), 저온$(7^{\circ}C)$ (LT), 고온$(100^{\circ}C)$(OV)의 세 종류의 온도 조건과 염료 폐수처리 용도로 활용되고 있는 $H_2O_2/UV$법 (PER)을 사용하였다. 퇴화시간은 6시간, 24시간, 48시간, 1주, 2주, 4주 각각을 측정하였다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 전후의 시료에서 alizarin(10.1분)이 검출되었다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 후 benzoic acid(4.7분), 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol(6.8분), phthalic anhydride(5.8분)가 검출되었다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 후 붉은색과 노란색이 감소하였다. 꼭두서니 염직물보다 알리자린 염직물의 경우 퇴화 전후의 색차가 더 심하였다. 그러나 가장 퇴화조건이 강한 PER퇴화조건 하에서는 꼭두서니 염직물의 색차가 1주 경과 후에도 매우 심하게 나는 것을 볼 수 있었다. 본 연구의 결과꼭두서니와 그 표준 색소로 염색한 직물이 퇴화할 경우에도 선행연구에서 밝혀진 알리자린의 퇴화물인 benzoic acid, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride가 검출됨을 확인하였다. 따라서 이들 화합물은 갈변되어 고유의 색을 알 수 없는 출토복식의 염료를 판정할 때 꼭두서니 염료의 사용여부를 확인할 수 있는 대조구 화합물로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 퇴화 전후의 색차에 대한 측정결과는 퇴화에 따른 염료의 색 변화에 대한 결과이다 출토복식의 갈변현상은 염료의 변색과 더불어 토양 유기물에 의한 착색도 기인하므로, 출토복식의 색상 변화를 실질적으로 조사하기 위해서는 본 연구의 결과와 함께 토양유기물에 의한 착색에 대한 연구가 병행되어야 할 것으로 본다

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.590-597
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• 2013

This study examined the change in the dyeability of natural dyes on cotton fabrics by a PEI (polyethyleneimine) pretreatment instead of mordants. Cotton fabrics were treated with PEI and the changes in the dyeability were shown by measuring the amount of PEI on cotton fabrics. Samples treated with PEI were dyed with two natural polychromatic dyes with a different affinity to cotton fibers: Alizarin Red S and Curcumin. The changes in dyeability by three variables (time, temperature and concentration of dyes) on cotton fabrics were analyzed by the K/S value to define optimum dyeing conditions. Subsequently, the PEI treatment improved the dyeability of cotton fabrics with both dyes of low and high affinity to cotton fibers. Thus, PEI could be a suitable heavy metal mordant replacement.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1350-1357
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• 2003

This research was aimed to establish the standard extraction and analytical procedures for examining the chromophoric substance in madder root with the ultimate goal of identifying the dyes in badly faded textiles of archaeological origin. The separation temperature of gas chromatography, pH and other extraction conditions were tested. The results were as follows: The suitable separation temperature for the GC cappillary column was 50∼305$^{\circ}C$, and methanol was a good GC solvent for both standard alizarin and madder extraction. The best extraction of madder was achieved by 90 min soaking in room temperature followed by filtration and the actual heat extraction procedure. The best pH for extracting alizarin was pH 3 and above pH 5 alizarin was not detectible. Only alizarin and no purpurin was found in the extraction of the currently used madder plant.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권9호
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• pp.1301-1307
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rubia akane Nakai appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting conditions of Rubia akane Nakai were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of the dyed fabric was investigated. The optimum temperature to extract Rubia akane Nakai was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 8$0^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with purpurin appeared red color, with alizarine appeared yellow-brown and with Rubia akane Nakai appeared yellow orange. K/S value of the dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment. Mordant as Sn and Fe was better than anything else in K/S value. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Rubia akane Ntkai light fastness was increased by Fe and Al mordant treatment, Perspiration fastness of Rubia akane Nakai appeared more than 3 grades geneally. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appeared mon than 4～5 grades and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.579-590
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• 2004

This research was aimed to investigate and compare the effectiveness of TLC and GC-MS methods in the analysis of chromophoric substances extracted from madder plant. Alizarin and purpurin 0.3% solution were used as comparative standards; madder extraction was prepared by heating the solution of powdered madder at 80℃, pH 1.5, for 90 min. Best elution solvent for TLC in silica gel plate was toluene:ethyl acetate=9:1, which resulted in red and yellow spots from madder extraction each of which showed R/sub f/ values 0.32-0.43 and 0.07-0.11. Although the red spot in particular exhibited similar characteristics as standard purpurin in color, shape, and R/sub f/ values, the result was inconsistent throughout different TLC trials. GC-MS analysis showed only small amount of alizarin and no purpurin in the madder extraction. Other chromophoric substance such as 2-furancarboxaldehyde, 5-(hydroxymethyl)-, anthralin, and danthron were also detected in small amounts. The result indicated that TLC was less sensitive to detecting and identifying the natural dyestuff which is generally constituted with a number of similar but chemically different chromophoric substances.