• New & Renewable Energy
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.28-35
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• 2007

In this study, the wave power resources at the three locations [Sokcho, Hupo, and Onsan] on the east coast of Korea were estimated by using the field measurement data and were compared with the results of previous researches. It was found that seasonal variation of the wave power is very significant on the east coast of Korean peninsula. The wave power was the smallest in the summer season at all the locations. At Hupo and Onsan, the highest value of the monthly-averaged wave power was observed in September, probably because the pathways of typhoon in September were close to both locations. At the northest location, Sockcho, in contrast, the monthly highest value of the wave power appeared in January, probably owing to the influence of storm waves driven by Donghae twister. The estimated annual average wave power was 4.5 kW/m at Sokcho, which was about two times larger than those at other two locations. It is noteworthy that this result is completely different from past researches based on wave hindcasting data. In addition, the estimates of wave power by the past researches seemed to be smaller than those of the present study, especially at the northern region of the east coast.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.154-163
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• 2009

Incident wave angles are conventionally estimated by the directional spectrum analysis of wave data collected from in-situ sensors. The in-situ measurements are limited in monitoring incident wave angles in the wide surf zone, since the techniques are typically expensive, labor-intensive, and point-measuring. In this study, estimation of incident wave angles using wave crest features captured in digital video imagery is proposed to observe incident wave directions over the surf zone. Line signatures of wave crests having high image pixel intensities are extracted by moving an interrogation window to identify high intensity pixels in sequential video images. Wave angles are computed by taking the first derivative of the extracted crest signatures, i.e. local slope of the crest signatures in the two-dimensional physical plane. Compared to the wave angle estimates obtained by the directional spectrum analysis, video-based wave angle estimates show good agreements in general.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.333-341
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• 2008

A remote sensing technique to identify trajectories of breaking waves in the surf zone using oblique digital nearshore videos is proposed. The noise arising from white foam induced by wave breaking has hindered accurate remote sensing of wave properties in the surf zone. For this reason, this paper focuses on image processing to remove the noise and wave trajectory identification essential for wave property estimation. The nearshore video imagery sampled at 3 Hz are used, covering length scale(100 m). Original image sequences are processed through image frame differencing and directional low-pass image filtering to remove the noise characterized by high frequencies in the video imagery. The extraction of individual wave crest features is conducted using a Radon transform-based line detection algorithm in the processed cross-shore image timestacks having a two-dimensional space-time domain. The number of valid wave crest trajectories identified corresponds to about 2/3 of waves recorded by the in-situ sensors.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.397-404
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• 2014

In Korea, harbor tranquility is generally estimated by using both methods of investigating harbor calmness under abnormal wave condition and evaluating the harbor serviceability. The efficiency of the former method is questionable as the tranquility of a harbor is judged by a wave height criterion that is arbitrarily determined without rational basis. In case of the latter method, the utilization rate of a harbor is estimated by using the exceedance probability of wave height or the distribution of wave heights and periods that is obtained from longterm measured or hindcasted wave data. Use of long-term data is desirable in order to guarantee the accuracy of the exceedance probability. Meanwhile, the criterion for determining maximum allowable wave height for cargo handling works is too simple and has limitations for being used in an actual field condition. Problems of existing method for estimating harbor tranquility were verified by the wave observation data in Busan New Port. And the importance of the field observation data was emphasized. It is necessary to perform long-term wave monitoring inside and outside of major ports in Korea in order to establish more advanced standard for evaluating harbor tranquility based on such observed wave data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.413-420
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• 2008

Wave force is an important factor which gives a direct affect to stability of the rubble mound breakwater. Particularly wave force has been considered as the main cause of displacement for replaced rubble mound breakwater which permits a little displacement to some degree. But the effect on displacement by wave force has not been considered and reflected in design. Therefore in this study, we compared numerical analysis displacement with field measured displacement so that the effect of wave force on displacement can be reflected in design. Result of the numerical analysis displacement was well consistent with field measured displacement data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.109-115
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• 2016

The trend in appearance of storm waves on the east coast of Korea was investigated based on long-term wave data observed at six different stations. At the four wave stations of KIOST (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, and Jinha), no notable trend was found during the observation period with respect to the annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height. In addition, the annual number of the appearance of storm waves showed decreasing trend at the three stations except Jinha, where slightly increasing trend of the quantity was recognized. In contrast, at Donghea ocean data buoy of KMA, abruptly increasing trend was found for the annual average and maximum of the significant wave height and for the annual number of the appearance of storm waves as well, demonstrating lack of consistency in the observation data from Donghea buoy of KMA.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.296-306
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• 2020

It has been reported that the wave heights measured by Wave and Tide gauges (WTG) have been underestimated, and thus it is important to improve its measuring accuracy for enhancing estimation of harbor tranquility. In this study, the significant wave heights from WTG were calibrated using measured data from AWAC and Waverider buoys moored at the same four locations with the WTG. It was observed that the product of significant wave height and peak wave period, HT, was not underestimated but linearly proportional between the measurements by two instruments. This linearity was applied to develop 3^rd order polynomial functions that best represented the relationship between HT and significant wave heights measured by WTG. These functions were then applied to calibrate the WTG significant wave heights that were lower than 0.7 m, the critical value established for the low waves in this study. The results showed that the linearity between the AWAC (or Waverider buoy) and calibrated wave heights were improved, and the magnitude of underestimated WTG wave heights were increased to be more realistic. The results of this study are expected to be effectively applied for other data sets obtained by WTG only, to increase the observation accuracy of WTG and to improve the estimation of harbor tranquility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.527-535
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• 2016

The Manseongri Coast meets the sea on the southeast and is composed of coarse sediment as a mesotidal beach. The waves that strike the beach are stronger than the tides or tidal currents as external forces of beach deformation. Storm waves frequently reach significant wave heights of 2-3m and hit in spring and summer, leaving the sea calm during fall and winter. Incident waves reach remarkable heights that correspond with observed shoreline changes. The shoreline erodes in spring and summer due to these strong waves but recovers in fall and winter as a result of the more moderate waves. On the basis of these observed results, a numerical calibration for experiments on shoreline change was established. Results revealed that according to hindcast data, calculated shoreline changes agreed with the observed shoreline, with a minimum RMS error of 1.26m with calibration parameters $C_1=0.2$ and $C_2=1C_1$. Using these calibration parameters, long-term shoreline change was predicted after the construction of submerged breakwaters and jetties, etc. The numerical model showed that the shoreline would move forward by 5-15m behind the submerged breakwaters and recede by 5-15m north of the structure.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2010.04a
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• pp.231-233
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• 2010

최근 어항에도 친환경항만을 건설하기 위한 노력이 국제적으로 확산되고 있으며, 우리나라에서도 어항의 정비 및 재개발부분에서 적극적으로 수질개선을 위한 기술 적용이 본격화 되고 있다. 본 연구는 우리나라 남해의 소규모 어항 및 해수욕장에 슬릿형 해안 구조물이 시공된 실해역의 실측자료와 수치해석을 통해 현장적용성의 분석을 수행하였다. 수치실험으로는 파랑작용 평형방정식을 이용하는 SWAN 모델을 구성하고 수리모형실험에서 분석된 실린더 슬릿형 방파제의 반사와 투과계수를 모텔에 도입하였다. 수치실험은 한국해양연구원의 전해역 심해설계파 추정 보고서 II (2005)중의 심해설계파 제원을 사용하였으며, 대상해역의 1970년~2006년 (37년간) 관측된 연최대 풍속자료를 이용하여 모델에 반영하였다. 설리항에서 S, SSE, SE계열의 파랑의 내습에 대한 분석을 수행하였으며, 그 결과 구조물이 항내에서 정온도가 유지되며 해수순환에도 이점이 있음을 현장관측 자료분석과 수치실험결과를 통하여 확인할 수 있었다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.204-210
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• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.