• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

Hijab as a symbol of women's oppression due to the opening and reform of Islamic State group, is becoming more diverse as younger generation begins to dress more freely than ever before, spreading the perception that it is a fashion item. In response, this research conducted a theoretical review about the history of hijab, various forms of hijab, and characteristics of hijab using relevant literature, media reports, and fashion media articles. As an empirical study, image-oriented photo data shared by Tehran Street Fashion from 2015 to November 2019 were analyzed separately by fashion majors into color, pattern, and hijab-making forms. According to the analysis, six different fashion images were categorized as romantic feminine, modern chic, natural elegant, classic formal, sporty casual and gorgeous ethnic. For Muslim women in the past, hijab was worn as a repressive and closed sense by the religious system. However, in modern times, it is a way to express one's style and ideas as a fashion item. It is also and a means to express one's thoughts and beliefs. Through aesthetic consideration of Hijab as a fashion item, it was found that it was a medium for freedom of expression and a medium for beauty and individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.87-100
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• 2003

In this study, the modern street fashion of Kangnam and Kangbuk was qualitatively examined and comparatively analyzed through the field case study, and it is expected that the results of this study be importantly used in planning commodity of fashion brand. The photographs taken in the Kangnam and Kangbuk streets were classified as looks. which were comparatively analyzed each other. Also, a questionnaire was carried out in return for women in those streets, and data related with an age group, occupation, school, academic major, etc. for participant personality and with time purchasing clothing. average expenses for clothing per month. market and reasons for buying clothing, current fashion style, etc. for fashion preference trend were obtained. The streets around Kangnam subway station and KOEX mall for the Kangnam fashion style were selected for the sampling, and Sinchon and entrance of Ewha University for the Kangbuk, where college students and middle/high school students mostly gather. Results showed that an easy casual style was most popular in the Kangbuk area, and a romantic feminine style including a bobos style most popular in the Kangnam area. This case studied on the street fashion gaves the qualitative results about the fashion trend and fashion prediction information, and they could be compared with quantitative those known previously. Also, it could be a basis research on strengthening the competitive power in fashion commodity. However, this study was subjected to restriction in the sampling due to the short time and a few streets. This study will be extended into longer time and various streets including Apgujungdong in Kangnam and many colleges in Kangbuk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.19-36
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• 1999

A military uniform has two basic characters. One is functionality for field warfare and the other is decorativeness to express dignity and power to maintain systematic organization. For these purposes, the military uniform is maximizing its effects on functionality and decorativeness on each aspects of material, color, dignity, item, military ornaments and accessories. During wartime, the military uniform improved its functionality and gave much influence on normal clothing at the same time either directly or indirectly. Military look became more diverse. In a mood for the end of century and inflated material civilization, and with nostalgia for the fast, mixed styles of fast, presents and future have come out in variety. In Street Fashion, there are many alternative trends to meet diverse desires of teenagers, and the military look has been steadily favored. The functionality and the decorativeness of military look would have met fashion sense and taste of younger generations pretty well. First, teenagers are active, and the practical materials and functional designs of military style applied to their clothes. Second, they prefer challenging and creative styles, and the decorative elements of military clothing for the colors, patterns, accessories have been applied to they clothing. We may need to understand their culture and emotion more closely and help them enjoy sound and beautiful clothing culture. The military uniform adapted itself to natural and social environments and has been developed and improved, which made that possible.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.5-16
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• 1996

In today's fashion Street is a birthplace of new generation fashion and Street Fashion have frequently influenced on high fashion. From this view point this study is a meaningful approach to forecast future fashion trend by examining the street style of youth who are regarded as Street Fashion leaders. The purpose of this study is to examine the Youth Fashion style in early 1990s and to pro-vide a reference to fashion designer and mer-chandiser in trend forecasting and product plan-ning. This study is focused on 1990s Youth Fashion style through the historical Street Fashion : 1950s Teddy boys & Mods 1960s Hippies & Skinhead and 1970s Punk. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. One is grunge fashion created by new gener-ation in opposition to existing generation society and impacting on hish fashion leaders. The other is Remix style that is mixed : sub culture fashion originated by young group in 1950-1970s with 1990s sensitivity. Both fashion styles origionated and led by youth of street have influenced on famous high fashion designeres as well as the general public. Street Fashion will continue to play an import-ant role in future fashion and more study and interest on Street Fashion should be taken by fashion forecaster and related.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.30-39
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• 2008

This research investigated the change of Japanese Street Fashion after the Second World War. The change were categorized into 5 terms from the late 1940s to 2000s. The first term was from the late 1940s to 1950s, when street fashion was born. The second term was from the 1960s to 1970s and counter culture of street fashion appeared. The third term was the 1980s, during which street fashion fluctuated. The forth term was the 1990s, a period of chaos in street fashion. The fifth term was after 2000 and it was a retroaction term of street fashion. Japanese street fashion was influenced by fashion magazines in those days. Various street fashions in Japan based on special society and cultural situation accomplished Japanese basic fashion quality and influenced world fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the street style of women in Dalian, China. 1.185 females of Dalian central street have participated for the survey of this study. This study analyzes characterization of the street style and, classifies it's characteristics by age groups, clothing styles, and clothing items. There are three outcomes due to the aim of this study, 1. In age group classification, every age groups preferred casual style. Especially, young/young adults preferred mix-match styles with various designs. Distinctly, some of missy group preferred fashion trend and others preferred mature style. Also, the preference of missies/madame's group is obviously divided into two groups which pursues fashion trend and not. 2. In clothing style classification, casual styles such as mini-skirts, hot pants, tight t-shirts are mostly in tight silhouette. Also, the main colors are indigo-blue, white, black and point color, which are vivid tone and fluorescent colors. The characteristics of sport casual style contribute the upper garment and the lower garment, which forms a set. Classic styles are divided into two groups of typical formal dress and traditional Qipao dress. The colors of feminine style and textile printing are more sumptuous than other styles. 3. In clothing items classification, the points of the upper garments is the construction of designs, textile printing, ornament with beads, embroidery, and ribbon etc., exposed back. The lower garments like hot pants and mini-skirts are made of jeans. The cargo pants that is made of jean, cotton, luster textile. Also, one-piece dress has the characteristics of tiered and irregular hem line.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.41-53
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• 2014

Contemporary fashion designers are keen on linking the past and the present through culture and fashion by the attempt to investigate and research on the costumes recorded in its history and to reinterpret it on their own terms. Covering the history of culture ranging from the 70s and 80s to the ancient Greek and Egyptian periods, these reinterpretations also reflect the latest fad of the times in which a fashion designer lives and works. Above all, Rococo costume from the eighteenth century is one of the fashion styles adored by fashion designers. What constitute the costume of this period creating the image of sensual women are not only the form of outfit, colors, the design of accessories, shoes and hairstyle but also the details such as frills, ribbons and flower decorations. In contemporary times, the original Rococo style has been modified and turned into various styles in the haute couture and street fashion. These modernized styles include Rock Rococo, Modern Rococo, Lolita Look, Gyaru Fashion and etc., all of which adopt the Rococo style and consider it as the symbol of feminine beauty. However, their approaches to the original Rococo style differ from each other. Hence, advocating the elegance of women is not invariably the case. Often, the interpretations of the Rococo are unconventional, defiant and wild. And, sometimes, these new versions of Rococo are overly exaggerated and emphasized or, reversely, reduced. In this research, various references on the Rococo elements such as colors, forms, accessories and detailed features that has influenced on the contemporary fashion will be analyzed. This analysis will demonstrate how the Rococo style of the eighteenth century has been integrated into contemporary fashion giving birth to new Rococo fashion styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.183-203
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• 2007

This study aims at providing useful fundamental information to re-establish the theories of modern fashion by examining the origination and genealogy of street style. The street styles focusing on caucasoid have a variety of genealogies such as western type, beat, teddy boy, hippie, skinhead, punk, neuron-mantic, indie kid, riot grrrl, grunge and techno cyber punk. In the same period, on the contrary, the streets styles focusing on negroid are zootie, hipster, modernist, rude boy, two-tone, rastafarian, funky, B-boy, fly girl, raggamuffine, bhangra, and acid jazz, which are seen as the culture of the large cities formed along Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean sea like England, America and Jamaica. These have root as the main fashion in western society. Ironically, most of the subculture concentrated on the whites were racists. Because of such a reason, the street styles have been formed as resistance culture that was unable to sympathize with their society and characteristics by distinguishing the whites and the colored people. Zootie or hipster that is one of the street fashion styles was formed in the 1940-50s, while the colored people who lived in the west Indies migrated to England or America. As a minimal modernist style called Ivy look in US, in that time, anti-culture formed by teenagers in whitey, teddy boy and mods fashion can be strictly different from the zootie and hipster. The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, the street styles of the whites were mostly the skinhead or hippie. Most of them were racists toward the colored people. The punk type on shown on the whites focused on luxury and exaggerative costume. On the contrary, the funky style of the colored people focused on aggressive nihilism and form. With B-boy, fly girl, reggae, rap music, and break dancing in the 1980s, the subculture gradually told on the high fashion as well as the culture between the whites and the colored people. From such aspects, the colored people tried to maintain their unique traditional characteristics. However, their individual values surged by the coming young generation excluded the colored people's characteristic street styles. Focusing on gender, violence and private success among their major concerns, the raga muffin style that represents multi-races and multi-cultures was formed. The jazz style in the 1990s showed cold post-modernistic eclecticism different from that of the 1940s-50s. Simultaneously, the various classes appeared their street styles by emphasizing on each personality. Now that we are living in multi-cultural society, a human race or nationalism concept is getting obscurer. There is no obvious boundary line in the differences between human race and its fashion.