• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.440-447
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• 2012

Numerical model experiments of wave transformation due to the reclamation and the construction of breakwater in case of 50 years design wave were performed using time dependent mild slope equation included shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. As waves propagate to the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by the bottom friction and wave breaking etc.. After the reclamation and the construction of 75 m length breakwater, wave height distributions in the lee of breakwater have the range of 29~128 cm. To make better the harbor tranquility the length of breakwater needs to extend more than 100 m. After the construction of breakwater, wave height in the lee of the structure was deduced over 80%.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 1995

The procedure of wave energy dissipation due to breaking has been investigated with trains of the regular wave. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a stable value at some distance from the breaking point Experimental results show that the stable wave is considerably affected by the wave period. The study gives the general form of stable wave height A new one-dimensional wave deformation model is proposed. being coupled with an approximated shoaling coefficient before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. It was compared with the experimental data. It predicts well the wave height deformation before and after wave breaking even on the abrupt change of the depth.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.401-412
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• 2008

Simulations of three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate wave force acting on a large cylindrical structure and consequent wave deformation, which are induced by bore after breaking waves. The numerical model is based on the three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with a finite-difference method combined with a volume of fluid(VOF) method, which is capable of tracking the complex free surface, including wave breaking. In order to promote wave breaking of the incident wave, the approach slope was built seaward of the structure with a constant slope and a large cylindrical structure was installed on a flat bed. The incident waves were broken on the approach slope or flat bed by its wave height. In the present study, all waves acting on the large cylindrical structure were limited to breaking bore after wave breaking. The effects of the position of the structure and the incident wave height on the wave force and wave transformations were mainly investigated with the concern of wave breaking. Further, the relations between the variation of wave energy by wave propagation after wave breaking and wave force acting on the structure were discussed to give the understanding of the full-linear wave-structure interactions in three-dimensional wave fields.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.157-163
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• 1994

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves is performed by nonlinear wave evolution as well as superposition of different wave frequencies. Two-dimensional and three-dimensional wave instabilities and breakings are observed in nonlinear wave evolution. The wave energy evolves with almost the same initial wave energy before breaking but decreases significantly after breaking process. Large spilling and plunging waves are generated near e expected breaking location by means of faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain point. More energy loss in vigorous plunging breakers is observed through breaking process.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.619-633
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• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.193-201
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• 1993

Experimental investigation of nonlinear instability of deep-water wave train is performed. Two-dimensional Benjamin-Feir type wave instability and breaking are observed at wave steepness between 0.19 and 0.25 and three-dimensional instability and breaking at wave steepness greater than or equal to 0.31. At the same wave steepness, shorter waves with smaller amplitude are more unstable, with earlier occurrence of breaking, than long waves with large amplitude.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.55-59
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• 2005

The present data concerns the wave height distribution around the Ieodo underwater rocks and it was obtained from a 3D hydraulic model experiment which was performed in 1999 by Konkuk University and Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute. The experiment was separately undertaken for 4 different wave directions (NNW, SE, S, NNW) under which wave heights were measured at every 1m interval within the preset grid area, 16m×18m. It was observed that the wave breaking occurred on the top of the Ieodo model for all wave directions. This data may be effectively used for improving or verifying the performance of numerical wave propagation models in the area with the local breaking wave zones.