• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.157-167
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• 2008

The aeration of an overtopping wave on a vertical structure generated by a plunging wave was investigated through laboratory measurements of void fraction. The overtopping wave occurring after wave breaking becomes multi-phased and turbulent with significant aeration, so that the void fraction of the flow is of importance. In this study, fiber optic reflectometer and bubble image velocimetry were employed to measure the void fraction, velocity, and layer thickness of the overtopping flow. Mean properties were obtained by ensembleand time-averaging the repeated instantaneous void fractions and velocities. The mean void fractions show that the overtopping wave is very high-aerated near the overtopping wave front and relatively low-aerated near the deck surface and rear free surface of the wave. The flow rate and momentum of the overtopping flow estimated using the measured data show that the void ratio is an important parameter to consider in the multiphase flow. From the similarity profiles of the depth-averaged void fraction, velocity, and layer thickness, one-dimensional empirical equations were obtained and used to estimate the flow rate and momentum of the overtopping flow.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.527-536
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• 1996

The patterns of diel horizontal migration (DHM) of 7 copepod species are compared as part of a general investigation of the zooplankton adaptations to the surf zone habitats. In a sandy shore surf zone of Yongil Bay, 3 sites such as the bottom and surface of 1 m water depth and water's edge are sampled with a sledge net(n=108). The surf zone copepod assemblage is dominated by 7 species; Acartia hudsonica, Fseudodiaptomus marinus, Paracalanus indicus, Calanus sinicus, Oithona similis, Sinocalanus tenellus and Labidocera bipinnata. Threefold variations in copepod abundance are observed within a diel cycle. Abundances of 7 dominant species and total copepods captured in the surface exhibit significant diel differences, but those taken in the bottom are not significantly affected by diel period. It is shown that about $90\%$ of the surf zone copepods performed DHM. The nocturnal high densities of copepods occurred for a neap tide when the offshore winds prevailed, suggesting the animals' ability for horizontal orientation and an active locomotion without invoking passive transportation by currents. Photoreactive behavior of copepods triggered by relative changes in light intensity may be a primary factor inducing DHM by aggregating in the surf zone during the night and spreading out at day; then copepods may reduce encounters with visual predators. In A. hudsonica, ontogenetic variations in timings of DHM are evident. Such variations are likely to minimize intraspecific competition for diets. Data on shoreward migration of copepods indicate that A. hudsonica, P. indicus, O. similis and S. tenellus can maintain swimming velocities of about $20m\;h^{-1}$ for durations of more than an hour. Our observations of strong diel difference in abundances point out the need for both day and night samplings in surf zone habitats, if the importance of these habitats to planktonic copepods are to be fully understood.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.217-222
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• 1991

Hydralic model experiments for permeable breakwaters with three different shapes of cap concrete were carried out in a two-dimensional wave channel to investigate the shape effects of cap concrete on transmission rate of the incident waves over the breakwaters. The model test results show that energy damping effects are significant in the following order; cap concrete with dissipation holes and apron, cap concrete with apron only, and cap concrete without dissipation holes and apron. It is concluded that the significant damping effects are due to energy dissipation of the incident wave as they pass through the holes and the apron.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2001

Wave-induced currents drive nearshore transport processes, and hence an accurate understanding of wave-current interaction is required for proper management of coastal zone. This paper presents details of an adaptive quadtree grid based numerical model of the coupled wave climate and depth-averaged current field. The model accounts for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes, bottom friction effects, and movement of land-water interface at the shoreline. The wave period- and depth-averaged governing equations arc discrctized explicitly by means of an Adarns¬Bashforth second-order finite difference technique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Results from the numerical model are in reasonable agreement with the laboratory data of longshore current generated by oblique waves on a plane beach (Visser 1980, 1991).

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.112-119
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• 2012

This study investigated the diel and tidal distributions of the two mysids, Archaeomysis kokuboi and Acanthomysis nakazatoi, in relation to their growth stages in the sandy surf zone of Yongil Bay, located on the southeastern part of Korean Peninsula. Sampling was conducted with a sledge net at every two hours for almost 24 hours at three sites: water edge, water surface and sand bottom both in 1-m deep water areas. The abundance of Archaeomysis kokuboi juveniles was too low to count both in day and night samples. While there was no difference in immature A. kokuboi abundance between day and night in the bottom or water edge, that at the water surface was significantly higher at night than daytime. The abundance of A. kokuboi adults, especially of males, in the bottom was significantly higher in daytime than night and no individuals appeared to the water surface either day or night. In comparison, the abundance of Acanthomysis nakazatoi juveniles between day and night did not differ significantly at all the three sites, with the highest number being distributed in the bottom. The abundance of immatures between day and night also did not differ significantly and no individuals appeared to the water surface either day or night. The abundance of A. nakazatoi adults, especially females, in the bottom was significantly higher at night than daytime and there was no significant difference in abundance between day and night in the other sites. There was also no significant difference in abundances of the two species between ebb and flood tides, except for A. kokuboi immatures which appeared significantly more during the ebb tides at the water surface. Overall, the distribution of the two sympatric species, A. kokuboi and A. nakazatoi, was not the same in the sandy surf zone. Its difference seems to depend on their stages of growth, and the change in their abundance may be influenced more by diurnal rhythms than tidal effects. The population density of A. nakazatoi in the sandy surf zone was much higher than that of A. kokuboi, and relatively higher densities in all growth stages of the former were found in the sandy bottom ranging from juveniles to adults. These results indicate that A. nakazatoi has exceedingly better ability of sand burrowing even from the juvenile stage, and thus is an ecologically better adapted species in the sandy surf zone than another sympatric species, A. kokuboi.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.378-386
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• 2019

Unlike ship noise that radiates from moving ships, wind noise is caused by breaking waves as a result of the interaction between the wind and the sea surface. In this paper, WNL (Wind Noise Level) was modeled by considering the noise source of the wind as the bubble cloud generated by the breaking waves. In the modeling, SL( Source Level) of the wind noise was calculated using the wind-speed data measured from the weather buoy operated in the coastal area of the East Sea. At the same time as observing the wind speed, NL (Noise Level) was continuously measured using a self-recording hydrophone deployed near the weather buoy. The modeled WNL according to the wind speed and the measured NL removing the shipping noise from the acoustic raw data were compared in the low-frequency band. The overall trends between the modeled WNL and the measured NL were similar to each other. Therefore, it was confirmed that it is possible to model the WNL in the shallow water considering the SL and distribution depth of bubble cloud caused by the wind.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.97-104
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, take into account the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, wave-wave interaction, and wave-current interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process, we applied the spectral wave model to the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on. We also compared the simulation results with the calculatea from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and safer use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.