• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.355-360
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• 2007

The process of the nonlinear shallow water wave transformation in a basin of a constant depth is studied. Characteristics of the first breaking of the wave are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave are calculated. It is shown that the spectral amplitudes can be expressed using the wave front steepness, which allows the practical estimations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.401-412
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• 2008

Simulations of three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate wave force acting on a large cylindrical structure and consequent wave deformation, which are induced by bore after breaking waves. The numerical model is based on the three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with a finite-difference method combined with a volume of fluid(VOF) method, which is capable of tracking the complex free surface, including wave breaking. In order to promote wave breaking of the incident wave, the approach slope was built seaward of the structure with a constant slope and a large cylindrical structure was installed on a flat bed. The incident waves were broken on the approach slope or flat bed by its wave height. In the present study, all waves acting on the large cylindrical structure were limited to breaking bore after wave breaking. The effects of the position of the structure and the incident wave height on the wave force and wave transformations were mainly investigated with the concern of wave breaking. Further, the relations between the variation of wave energy by wave propagation after wave breaking and wave force acting on the structure were discussed to give the understanding of the full-linear wave-structure interactions in three-dimensional wave fields.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.468-468
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• 2016

3차원 동수역학 모델을 이용하여 연안 순환에서 발생하는 이안류의 연직 분포를 조사하였다. 이안류 흐름은 변수심 위에서 발생하는 파의 쇄파와 모멘텀 전달에 의해 발생하는 외해방향의 흐름을 의미하는 것으로 해안의 보전, 유지 및 개발 측면에서 매우 중요한 역할을 한다. 지난 수십년동안 이안류와 관련된 현상을 해석하기 위해 많은 연구들이 수행되어 왔다. 하지만 대부분의 연구들은 수심적분된 2차원 모델을 사용하거나 위상 평균된 3차원 모델을 사용하여 이안류 흐름이 발생할 시 유속의 3차원 분포나 각 종 물리량의 시간적인 변화 등을 모의하기 어려웠다. 본 연구에서는 3차원 동수역학 모델 NHWAVE (Non-Hydrostatic WAVE model)을 이용하여 이안류의 연직분포를 조사하였다. 이안류를 발생시키기 위하여 이상적인 이안류 지형을 만들었으며 여러 지점에서 연직분포를 측정하여 수심적분된 Boussinesq 모델과 비교하여 특성을 파악하였다. 수치모의 수행결과, 두 모델 모두 이안류 현상을 잘 재현하였으나 Boussinesq 모델은 수평유속의 연직방향 변화를 잘 재현하지는 못하였다. 또한, 파고가 상대적으로 큰 경우에는 3차원 모델에서는 작은 순환류가 외해 영역에서 발생하였으나 Boussinesq 모델에서는 관측하지 못하였다.

• Ecology and Resilient Infrastructure
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2014

In this study, a numerical simulation technique for coastal area where wave and current interactions are observed is proposed. Considering the spatial scale of coastal area and the coastal processes such as wave, current, shoaling, wave breaking, and inundation processes, boussinesq equation model is used. A depth-integrated transport model based on the consistent assumption with the boussinesq equation model is used for the prediction of solute transport. To solve the equations, finite volume method with an approximate riemann solver is used. The proposed model is applied to a coastal area and reasonable computational results are obtained.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.35 no.5
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• pp.1051-1059
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• 2015

Wave runup is one of the most important factors affecting the design of coastal structure exposed to wave attack. In this study, two dimensional laboratory tests were conducted under the different random wave conditions and structure configurations to develop a formula to predict runup heights. Rubble-mound structure consisted of tetrapod armour blocks with 1:1.5 and 1:2 slopes. The relative water depths (the ratio of the significant wave height to water depth at the toe) ranged from 0.14 to 0.56. The formula proposed here is applicable to surf similarity parameter ranging from 2 to 6. Runup heights on 1:2 slope were higher than those on 1:1.5 slope. Runup heights were reduced by 5% when the armour layer thickness increased two times.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2020.06a
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• pp.304-304
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• 2020

항만구조물의 방파제 또는 방파호안의 마루높이는 배후지역의 활용도에 따라 내습파의 월파로 인한 전달파 또는 월파량에 의해 결정되기 때문에 월파량산정은 항만구조물을 설계함에 있어서 주요한 설계인자이다. 그동안 국내에서는 항만구조물 설계시 주로 외국의 기준이나 기법을 활용하고 있는 실정이다. 국내 항만설계기준에서는 Goda도표를 이용하여 직립제 및 방파호안에 대한 월파량 산정방법을 제시하고 있으나, 도표축이 log로 되어 있어 내삽 또는 외삽시 사용자에 따라 월파량 차이가 발생할 수 있다. 국내의 해역특성 및 최근 설계동향을 반영한 월파량 산정식의 개발이 필요하고, 동일조건에 대한 동일한 월파량 산정결과가 도출될 수 있어야 한다. 최근의 대표 연구성과인 EurOtop(2007)과 같이 지수함수의 형태로 월파량 산정식을 제시하고자 한다. 경사식구조물의 평균월파량 산정식 도출을 위해 적용한 구조물 위치에서의 수심(d_t)은 0.40m, 0.55m, 0.70m 이다. 적용수심을 서로 다르게 한 것은 기존의 대부분의 연구에서 적용하지 않았던 구조물 위치에서의 쇄파조건을 고려하기 위한 것이다. 실험파는 Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu 주파수 스펙트럼을 사용한 불규칙파를 적용하였다. 본 연구에서는 주 피복재로 TTP를 대상으로 하였고, 주기 및 파고를 다양한 조건에서 수리실험을 수행하였다. 본 연구의 실험결과는 월파량 계측을 통해 분석된 평균 월파량을 적절한 산정식으로 나타내기 위해 EurOtop(2007)의 기존 월파량 산정식 형태에 대입하여 비교하여 분석하였다. 따라서, 본 논문은 월파량 산정식 제시를 통해 보다 합리적인 항만구조물의 마루높이 산정이 가능하게 하고, 또한 월파량 산정과 관련된 실험자료 구축을 통해 신뢰성해석 자료 및 수치모형의 검증 자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.162-168
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• 2017

Shallow-water bathymetry survey has been conducted using high definition color images obtained at the altitude of 100 m above sea level using a drone. Shallow-water bathymetry data are one of the most important input data for the research of beach erosion problems. Especially, accurate bathymetry data within closure depth are critically important, because most of the interesting phenomena occur in the surf zone. However, it is extremely difficult to obtain accurate bathymetry data due to wave-induced currents and breaking waves in this region. Therefore, optical remote sensing technique using a small drone is considered to be attractive alternative. This paper presents the potential utilization of image processing algorithms using multi-variable linear regression applied to red, green, blue and grey band images for estimating shallow water depth using a drone with HD camera. Optical remote sensing analysis conducted at Wolpo beach showed promising results. Estimated water depths within 5 m showed correlation coefficient of 0.99 and maximum error of 0.2 m compared with water depth surveyed through manual as well as ship-board echo-sounder measurements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.263-270
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• 1993

A study on the variation of radiation stress and mean water level is carried out for the shoaling and breaking waves on a plane beach. In general, the radiation stresses computed based on the linear wave theory are overestimated. which results in the discrepancy between the computed results and laboratory data of mean water level in the surf zone. In this paper, by modifying the Svendsen's approach (1984), radiation stress is expressed in terms of water depth. The computed results are compared with the results calculated by a linear wave theory and Sawaragi's approach (1984) based on the spectrum of breaking wave components, and published laboratory data. The computed results of the modifed Svendsen's approach are favourably compared with the laboratory data.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.39-45
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• 1997

Subtidal zonation of a cumacean Bodotria biplicata was investigated in the sandy shore surf zone of Dolsando, southern Korea. Three replicate samples were taken with a sledge net at three sites, such as the surface and bottom of 1 m depth and waters edge, at hourly intervals over the neap and spring tide cycles on January 1993 (n=225). B. biplicata, the most dominant cumacean in this area, exhibited peak density at the bottom while about $0.6\%$ of total catch was collected at the surface. Mean density during the neap tide cycle was slightly higher than that during the spring tide cycle. The depth of subtidal zone influenced the total catch of B. biplicata. The changes in density were related to the depth of subtidal zone rather than day-night cycle or ebb-flood tide. The results obtained in this study suggest that the diel vertical migration is not distinct. During both neap and spring tide cycles, B. biplicata attained a density maximum at the same level of about 90 cm below lower low water (LLW). It is likely, therefore, that this species performs shore- and seaward horizontal migration fortnightly. The speed and distance of migration may be directly related to the beach slope and tide range. Ontogenetic differences in subtidal distribution were observed. Juveniles and manca larvae tended to occur lower areas than the adults. Such differences may reduce intraspecific competition for diets.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.