• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 1993.07a
• /
• pp.146-151
• /
• 1993

쇄파대에서 발생되는 연안류의 분포는 완만한 곡선분포를 보이는데 단순파인 경우이의 해석은 확산계수의 도입으로만 가능하다는 점은 널리 알려진 사실이다. Harris(1967)는 현장관측과 수조실험으로 이 분야 초기연구로서 쇄파대 확산의 변이를 무시하고 평균확산계수치만을 고려하였다. 연안류해석의 확고한 이론적 기초를 마련한 Longuet-Higgins(1970)는 그의 이론식 도출고정에서 확산계수 도입의 필요성을 인식하였으며, 특성길이로서 연안선으로부터의 거리를 택하고 특성속도로서 파속을 택하였으며 쇄파대내에서 파속은 군속도와 같다고 가정하였다. (중략)

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.151-158
• /
• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.619-633
• /
• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.193-206
• /
• 1993

An analytical model of undertow is presented in the surf zone. Each term of the derived governing equation is evaluated by the ordering methods. Then the turbulent normal stresses and the streaming velocity terms are neglected. The driving force of undertow is derived from the wave profile which is approximated by the 4th order Chebyshev polynomials. The three types of vertical distribution of eddy viscosity are assumed and the coefficient of eddy viscosity is decided from the new boundary condition. So the input parameters for the calculation of undertow become very simple. The theoretical solutions of the present model are compared with the various experimental results. This model shows a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of mild slope and linear type eddy viscosity.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
• /
• v.17
• /
• pp.261-275
• /
• 1997

The objective of this paper is to develop two numerical model for predicting the wave height with set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile. Two wave models, regular wave model and random wave model, are based on the energy flux equation with the energy dissipation effects. The developed numerical models are verified by comparison of numerical results with analytical solutions that are derived under the simple conditions. The characteristics of parameters included in each model are then investigated and decided to the range of behaviour by the sensitivity analysis. For sensitivity analysis, we carried out total 46 laboratory tests. Finally, the developed numerical models are applied to the field where the wave height near the surfzone has been measured. From the applications of numerical models, it is concluded that the developed numerical models may accurately predict the wave height with the set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.369-383
• /
• 1993

An amended form of radiation stress is presented in the present model and the existence of the surface advection terms is verified through comparisons with wave energy equation. The model yields circulation patterns in both cross-shore and longshore directions on the plane beach slope. Comparison with laboratory experiments showed good agreements. Finally, a quasi-three dimensional model suitable for the entire nearshore zone is developed by linking the depth-integrated properties with vertical profiles.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2008.05a
• /
• pp.914-918
• /
• 2008

연안지역의 갑작스런 개발은 예상치 못한 여러 가지 문제들을 발생시키고 있다. 이와 같은 문제들 중에서 가장 심각한 문제는 해안침식이다. 해안침식은 어떤 원인에 의해 토사의 평형이 손상되어 퇴적되는 양보다 더 많은 양이 유실되면서 해안선이 점점 후퇴하는 현상이다. 해안에 쌓여 있는 모래는 태풍과 폭풍해일로부터 육지를 보호하는 완충지대의 역할을 하고, 또한 관광자원으로도 그 활용가치가 증가하고 있기 때문에 침식현상을 분석하고 침식의 발생 및 진행을 억제하기 위한 연구가 반드시 필요하다고 하겠다. 본 연구에서는 해안침식을 제어하기 위한 기초적인 연구의 일환으로 연안류에 따른 연안표사의 분포특성에 대하여 살펴보았다. 연안류는 표사 이동이 가장 활발한 쇄파대로부터 해안선 사이에서 발생하는 흐름으로 파랑에 의해 발생한다. 일정경사를 갖는 해빈에 대해 연안류를 계산하고 계산된 연안류를 Komar(1977)가 Bagnold(1963) 모형을 이용하여 파의 응력과 흐름속도의 곱의 함수로 연안표사의 분포를 나타나낸 식에 대입하여 연안류에 따른 연안표사의 분포를 계산하였다.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
• /
• v.37 no.1
• /
• pp.33-43
• /
• 2004

A carbon budget model was constructed and analyzed for the Bangjukpo surf zone ecosystem in southern Korea by using the NETWRK. The model consists of 11 living and 1 non-living groups. Using boxes and arrows, a topological map was created to depict biomasses of each group and exchange rates between them. The system includes primary producers of phytoplankton and benthic algae, primary consumers of particle feeding zooplankton, carnivorous zooplankton, meiobenthos, malacostracans and bivalves, and top consumers of detrivorous, omnivorous, carnivorous and piscivorous fishes. The surf zone ecosystem was analyzed by means of network analysis, showing total system throughput of $574\;gCm^{-2}yr^{-1},$ development capacity of $1,876\;gCm^{-2}yr^{-1},$ ascendancy value of $768\;gCm^{-2}yr^{-1},$ Finn cycling index of $4.4\%$ and internal relative ascendancy of $27\%.$ These results were compared with similar data from other systems.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
• /
• v.29 no.4
• /
• pp.527-536
• /
• 1996

The patterns of diel horizontal migration (DHM) of 7 copepod species are compared as part of a general investigation of the zooplankton adaptations to the surf zone habitats. In a sandy shore surf zone of Yongil Bay, 3 sites such as the bottom and surface of 1 m water depth and water's edge are sampled with a sledge net(n=108). The surf zone copepod assemblage is dominated by 7 species; Acartia hudsonica, Fseudodiaptomus marinus, Paracalanus indicus, Calanus sinicus, Oithona similis, Sinocalanus tenellus and Labidocera bipinnata. Threefold variations in copepod abundance are observed within a diel cycle. Abundances of 7 dominant species and total copepods captured in the surface exhibit significant diel differences, but those taken in the bottom are not significantly affected by diel period. It is shown that about $90\%$ of the surf zone copepods performed DHM. The nocturnal high densities of copepods occurred for a neap tide when the offshore winds prevailed, suggesting the animals' ability for horizontal orientation and an active locomotion without invoking passive transportation by currents. Photoreactive behavior of copepods triggered by relative changes in light intensity may be a primary factor inducing DHM by aggregating in the surf zone during the night and spreading out at day; then copepods may reduce encounters with visual predators. In A. hudsonica, ontogenetic variations in timings of DHM are evident. Such variations are likely to minimize intraspecific competition for diets. Data on shoreward migration of copepods indicate that A. hudsonica, P. indicus, O. similis and S. tenellus can maintain swimming velocities of about $20m\;h^{-1}$ for durations of more than an hour. Our observations of strong diel difference in abundances point out the need for both day and night samplings in surf zone habitats, if the importance of these habitats to planktonic copepods are to be fully understood.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.355-365
• /
• 1994

An analytical model of return flow is presented outside the surf zone. The governing equation is derived from the Navier-Stokes equation and the continuity. Each term of the governing equation is evaluated by the ordering analysis. Then the infinitesimal terms, i.e. the turbulent normal stress, the squared vertical velocity of water particle and the streaming velocity, are neglected. The driving forces of return flow are calculated using the linear wave theory for the shallow water approximation. Especially, the space derivative of local wave heights is described considering a shoaling coefficient. The vertical distribution of eddy viscosity is discussed to the customary types which are the constant, the linear function and the exponential function. Each coefficient of the eddy viscosities which sensitively affect the precision of solutions is uniquely decided from the additional boundary condition which the velocity becomes zero at the wave trough level. Also the boundary conditions at the bottom and the continuity relation are used in the integration of the governing equation. The theoretical solutions of present model are compared with the various experimental results. The solutions show a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of constant or exponential function type eddy viscosity.