• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.294-306
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is a men's dress shirt pattern by somatotype for mass customization system that is rising to the surface as a new production system. Subjects were 65 men aged from 25 to 44 for making research pattern and 9 men for wearing test. The dress shirt went through the secondary wearing test and sensory evaluation to verify the propriety of the research pattern. The results were as follows: For making research dress shirts pattern used the body parts size that were height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference. The waist back length, the waist to hip length and the pattern length of were set by the calculation formula based on the height. The ease of 16cm for the chest circumference and A type had the ease of 10cm for the waist circumference, Y type had the ease of 8cm and B type had 12cm. Through the wearing test, the research pattern showed significant difference from the comparative patterns so additional two items of the length between biacromion and waist circumference were added to the items used in the comparative patterns through which satisfactory results were obtained. In the secondary wearing test for the dress shirt, all the items, except for the front centerline, were evaluated excellent. As a result of evaluating by the figure type, the normal type was evaluated best in all the items.

• Journal of Korea Society of Industrial Information Systems
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.13-23
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• 2022

In this paper, we propose a detailed component image classification algorithm by fashion item for unstructured data retrieval in the fashion field. Due to the COVID-19 environment, AI-based online shopping malls are increasing recently. However, there is a limit to accurate unstructured data search with existing keyword search and personalized style recommendations based on user surfing behavior. In this study, pre-processing using Mask R-CNN was conducted using images crawled from online shopping sites and then classified components for each fashion item through CNN. We obtain the accuaracy for collar of the shirt's as 93.28%, the pattern of the shirt as 98.10%, the 3 classese fit of the jeans as 91.73%, And, we further obtained one for the 4 classes fit of jeans as 81.59% and the color of the jeans as 93.91%. At the results for the decorated items, we also obtained the accuract of the washing of the jeans as 91.20% and the demage of jeans accuaracy as 92.96%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1019-1030
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• 2011

The aim of this study was to develop a pattern of flight attendant uniform shirts to provide better comfort for their work postures. Flight attendants' work postures were evaluated to determine the problems of clothing and mobility during their work. The pattern of the flight attendants' uniform shirt was altered by applying dynamic wearing ease(DWE). DWE was calculated from four standardized dynamic postures and a static posture. An experimental garment was made with the altered postures. The researcher redesigned the pattern of the uniform shirts, which minimizes physical limitations in movements. The fit and mobility of the shirts were evaluated. Results of this study are as follows. First, the five representative work postures were selected by "clothing stress" and "repetitiveness." These postures included raised arms, twisting midriff and shoulder postures. Five representative postures were selected by using the ergonomic posture assessment device index(OWAS). Second, the experimental garment was developed by applying DWE across the back and at armhole depth, back length, and side length. Third, the fit and mobility of the experimental garments and the original uniform shirts were compared at the flight working environment set and 5 dynamic body postures of raising arms. The experimental garments made with an altered pattern provided better fit and mobility than the original sample shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.97-109
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• 2014

This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to $90^{\circ}$ horizontal forward position, arms raised $90^{\circ}$ to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm $180^{\circ}$, and arm forward $90^{\circ}$ in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1824-1835
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• 2010

This study develops tight-fitting torso patterns for performance garments by taking into account the skin deformation generated directly from a 3D scan during arm movements. The skin deformation caused during the arm movements was scanned after scanning the skin surface stamped with a circle. To create a torso pattern in response to skin deformation, the ratio and direction of the skin deformation were first measured and analyzed so that the 3D human body could be segmented. After translating, the 3D skin surface was segmented into 2D flat patterns, designing nude patterns and reducing them as well as tight-fitting shirts: the skin deformation segment shirts were made in response to the skin deformation. The features of the fabric deformation and the garment pressure were analyzed and evaluated. In comparison with a clothing construction segment shirt, the diameter of the skin deformation segment shirt was smaller as well the ratios of extension and reduction was less. The garment pressure of the skin deformation segment shirt was higher. The skin deformation segment shirt fitted more tightly compared to a clothing construction segment shirt as it covered the body more thoroughly and was as comfortable as the other shirts with less fabric deformation made as the body moved.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.225-236
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• 1996

Computer simulation methods for three area of textile design, wearing, and design were developed by using CAD system, and its results were applied to pattern design simulation. Textile design created by using the CAD system was applied to T-shirt schematization. Created wearing, printing, and knitting design respectively were applied to women clothing, children's wear, and men sweater. In this rearch, several equipped since various color working, materials, pattern development and swift intention decision of goods direction are possible on the moniter. Third, many goods order are rushed within short time because spot direction are possible on the moniter. Third, many goods order are rushed within short time because intention decision of buyer could be induced and embodied design almost reflection the buyer's will on the spot before production of goods and samples. Forth, time and expense were saved to get the information in terms of design information systematically and could be managed annually. Fifth, creative design development can be not only availed but saved the service expense of outside orders and the traffic expense.