• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.123-132
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• 2023

The term 'module' is an architectural term. It refers to the components or systems that make up a finished product. As industries develop, modules have become one of the methods that can create diverse and creative designs. Traditional modular fashion design mainly focused on structural methods, such as the combination, assembly, overlap, and arrangement of modules, as well as the tessellation of geometric shapes. However, in this paper, significance lies in exploring the application of shape grammar, a design method in architecture, to fashion design. It aims to search for ways to express three-dimensional designs, derive designs that can be worn and produced, and propose fashion design by applying the rules of shape grammar to the design process. Through this analysis, the paper aims to examine the methods and characteristics of shape grammar. The research method of this paper is as follows. First, by utilizing optimized programs for implementing the modules of shape grammar, it was possible to propose a method for producing modules of shape grammar and suggest module designs. Additionally, effective methods of representation using the Clo 3D program were explored in the design development process. Second, by applying shape grammar to the fashion design process, five-dimensional modular fashion designs were proposed, including a bolero, dress 1, dress 2, setup, and coat. The proposed modular fashion design using shape grammar in this paper provides a rational design process that differentiates itself from traditional modular fashion design. By formalizing the shapes between modules and creating rules, it overcomes the limitations of design that rely on the designer's intuition or sensibility and enables the development of more diverse modular fashion designs. This application of shape grammar in fashion design can provide an important direction in exploring a sustainable fashion industry.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.27
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• pp.125-146
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• 2022

The Wooden Gamsil with Inscription of "Botajeon" in the collection of the Dongguk University Museum was made in imitation of the wooden architecture style of the late Joseon period. The Gamsil had suffered exfoliation in the pigment and loss of components and thus underwent conservation treatment. Prior to the conservation treatment, the damage was classified by type and form, scientific analysis was carried out on the fiber and the species of wood, and portable X-ray fluorescence (P-XRF) analysis was conducted for the pigment component analysis. According to the analyses, Korea Pine(Soft pine) was used for most parts of the Gamsil, Manchurian walnut (Jugalns spp.) was used for the signboard, and the fiber used was identified as rice straw (Oryza sativa). The P-XRF identified white lead and zinc oxide in the white pigment, red lead in the red pigment, ultramarine blue in the blue pigment, and emerald green in the green pigment. For the conservation treatment, contaminants attached to the gamsil were removed by both dry and wet cleaning, detached parts were reattached in their original places, and lost parts were restored.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.230-250
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• 2013

possessed by Dong-A University Museum is designated as Treasure No. 595, and has been known for a more exquisite, delicate and realistic expression and a colorful three-dimensional structure compared to the 'grass and insect painting' work and its value in art history. However, it has not been analyzed and studied in fabric craft despite it being an embroidered work. This study used scientific devices to examine and analyze the Screen's fabric, thread colors, and embroidery techniques to clarify its patterns and fabric craft characteristics for its value in the history of fabric craft. As a result, consists of eight sides and its subject matters and composition are similar to those of the general paintings of grass and insects. The patterns on each side of the 'grass and insect painting' include cucumber, cockscomb, day lily, balsam pear, gillyflower, watermelon, eggplant, and chrysanthemums from the first side. Among these flowers, the balsam pear is a special material not found in the existing paintings of grass and insect. The eighth side only has the chrysanthemums with no insects and reptiles, making it different from the typical forms of the paintings of grass and insect. The fabric of the Screen uses black that is not seen in other decorative embroideries to emphasize and maximize various colors of threads. The fabric used the weave structure of 5-end satin called Gong Dan [non-patterned satin]. The threads used extremely slightly twisted threads that are incidentally twisted. Some threads use one color, while other threads use two or mixed colors in combination for three-dimensional expressions. Because the threads are severely deterioration and faded, it is impossible to know the original colors, but the most frequently used colors are yellow to green and other colors remaining relatively prominently are blue, grown, and violet. The colors of day lily, gillyflower, and strawberries are currently remaining as reddish yellow, but it is anticipated that they were originally orange and red considering the existing paintings of grass and insects. The embroidery technique was mostly surface satin stitch to fill the surfaces. This shows the traditional women's wisdom to reduce the waste of color threads. Satin stitch is a relatively simple embroidery technique for decorating a surface, but it uses various color threads and divides the surfaces for combined vertical, horizontal, and diagonal stitches or for the combination of long and short stitches for various textures and the sense of volume. The bodies of insects use the combination of buttonhole stitch, outline stitch, and satin stitch for three-dimensional expressions, but the use of buttonhole stitch is particularly noticeable. In addition to that, decorative stitches were used to give volume to the leaves and surface pine needle stitches were done on the scouring rush to add more realistic texture. Decorative stitches were added on top of gillyflower, strawberries, and cucumbers for a more delicate touch. is valuable in the history of paintings and art and bears great importance in the history of Korean embroidery as it uses outstanding technique and colors of Korea to express the Shin Sa-im-dang's 'Grass and Insect Painting'.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.220-237
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• 2021

This study carried out the conservation treatment for the mattress put on the bed, which is one of 4 items in National Folklore Cultural Heritage, the Red-lacquered Furniture with the inlaid mother-of-pearl design used by Empress Sunjeonghyo (presumed), after identifying the characteristics of the manufacturing techniques and the used materials. And the study intends to compare it with the mattress placed in the Daejojeong in the Changdeokgung Palace in order to identify the characteristics of mattresses domestically used during the 1920s and 1930s. From the analysis of the mattress presumably used by Empress Sunjeonghyo, it was identified that the mattress frame was made of pinaceous hemlock spruce while the webbing and twine in the structural parts were made of jute. The findings are as follows: the burlap had a filling material that was made of jute; the straw mat was made from Oryza; and, the rest of the filling material was cotton. Rayon was used for the top cover while cotton was used for the bottom. As a result of research on the materials and the inner structure, it was found that mattress was manufactured in the form of the upholstery style mainly found in chairs and day-beds in Western furniture. Based on analysis results, materials identical to the original were adopted during the conservation treatment. Next, the process of dismantling, cleaning, repair, reinforcement and assembling was conducted. During the dismantling process, the top cover was newly discovered and some letters (Yokohama, Kobe, and Joseon) were found in the burlap filling, but there was no trace which can clarify its maker or production place. dry cleaning was carried out on the structural parts, filling materials, and the cover, and then the repair and reinforcement were done, preserving the existing materials in the upholstery structure and using the same materials for conservation. The webbing in the structural parts was reinforced using materials identical to the original, and the twine was used for arranging and fixing the springs into wooden frames. For the damaged cotton cloth and burlap, reinforcement materials identical to the original were put over it and sown. For the damaged area of the top cover, reinforcement cloth was cut and then added inside and the damaged area was sown. Assembling was carried out in the reverse order of the dismantling. After the burlap identical to the original material was inserted into the areas in contact with the springs and then fastened, a filling pad, reinforcement cloth, a straw mat, cotton cloth, cotton felt, wide cotton cloth for protecting the cover, and the cover were layered and fastened with tacks. The two mattresses used by Empress Sunjeonghyo differed only by the period of production and followed the same Western upholstery style consisting of the frames, filling materials, and covers. During the conservation treatment process, a velvet cover was newly discovered and the traces of repair in the past were found. Furthermore, identifying straw mats, straw bags, and straws for filling material, this study confirmed changes in the materials used according to the production environment. In the future, it is expected to see changes in the conservation materials during the conservation treatment and manufacturing techniques used for chairs and sofas in the upholstery style belonging to the modern cultural artifacts.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.8
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• pp.161-184
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• 2005

Traditionally, Korean ink painting used paper as a background medium. This tradition has sought a new attempt to meet today's demands while its expressive techniques and mediums become more diverse. The attempt of Korean ink painting to explore new mediums could change both its structure and style when considering the significance of the medium in the work. These new attempts have encouraged a further study of 'Korean Traditional Paper'. Today, 'Korean Traditional Paper' is considered to be an object itself rather than just being a background. In other words, there is no implication of a separation between the medium 'Korean Traditional Paper' and the work. Instead, the medium itself becomes the work. Therefore, 'Korean Traditional Paper' is not only a 'background' that contains the artist's desire to express, but at the same time also an 'object'. This study focuses on the attributes of 'Korean Traditional Paper' as an object, examines how this is visually applied in contemporary Korean ink painting in the relation to 'Korean Beauty', and reviews the work of some artists that use Korean Traditional Paper. The use of Korean Traditional Paper as an object first began with the experimental techniques of Lee , Eung-Noh and Kwon, Young-Woo in the 1960s, Then it seemed to stop for a while in the 1970s and 1980s until there was a renewed interest in the material personality of Korean Traditional Paper with the birth of the 'Korean Traditional Paper Artists Association' in the 1990s. This interest increased and Korean Traditional Paper was earnestly adopted by artists like Yim, Hyo Lee, Ki-Sook Won, Moon-Ja and Choi, Moo-Young, who used the paper in Broussonetia, the previous fibered state of rice paper. Here, the expression of the object through the characteristics of Korean Traditional Paper is a visual experiment to discover Korea's traditional art mediums that were forgotten once, focusing on the manifestation of Korean Beauty through Korean Traditional Paper. In this respect, this attempt has a valuable meaning in its use with a contemporary visual sense , based on the Korean sense of beauty.