• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.114-121
• /
• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제2권3호
• /
• pp.220-226
• /
• 2000

This study was to determine the characteristics of vapor-permeable waterproof finished fabric by the coating method. 4 different kinds of coating fabrics (A : wet, porous, polyurethane, B : dry, no porous, polyurethane, C : shape memory polyurethane and D : dry, porous polyurethane) were used, which were developed recently With this sample, moisture transport rate ($40^{\circ}C$, 45%RH & $40^{\circ}C$, 95%RH), changes of coating side's shape by washing times, water repellency rate, contracted length, qmax, heat conductivity, heat keeping rate, heat keeping rate with cotton, heat keeping rate on humidity temperature and humidity within clothing etc. were checked. And it was done in a climate chamber under $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, $65{\pm}5%RH$. The results of this study were as follow; In the moisture vapor transmission of sample B and C increased on high temperature and high humidity while sample A and D decreased, on this condition. Qmax rate had high relation with ground fabric's surface properties and the order was A>C>D>B. Heat conductivity had high relation with thickness and surface properties. Heat keeping rates on sweat condition showed around half percents of heat keeping rates on normal condition, but had no relation with moisture vapor transport rate. Changes of the fabric's properties by washing times were different in accordance with the construction of fabrics and the coating resin. Sample C had tow heat keeping rate on the high temperature and humidity and high heat keeping rate on the low temperature and humidity Moisture transport rate of vapor-permeable waterproof finished fabrics had high relation with the properties of ground fabrics on low humidity condition, but on the high humidity condition, it was highly related with the properties of coating resin.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제1권3호
• /
• pp.288-295
• /
• 1999

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties in tencel fabrics by repeated washing & shear and tensile deformation. The obtained results are as follows. After performing repeated shear tensile deformation, RT of tencel showed higher increase rate than that of cotton and rayon, whereas its WT and EM was a smaller decrease rate than that of them. This means that tencel's resistance to tensile deformation was the greatest. In the repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, tencel's 2HB, 2HG and 2HG5 showed a remarkable increase rate. In terms of deformation frequency, the greatest change rate appeared at the time of 1000 cycles of repeated shear tensile deformation and 15 times of repeated washing. In the hand value and THV, KOSHI showed a higher increase rate for tencel than for cotton and rayon in both repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, and NUMERI showed a higher increase rate. In the THV the change rate of rayon and cotton could be rarely seen but for tencel, it decreased. tencel's change rate of thermal insulation value by materials was 1.08%, and it increased as the washing frequency increased, compared to the grey fabrics, whereas the change rates of cotton and rayon were 0.74% and 0.22%, respectively. The qmax decreased in the order of cotton>tencel>rayon as the washing frequency increased.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제1권2호
• /
• pp.160-165
• /
• 1999

The thermal properies of the pure linen fabrics available in the market and linen blended woven fabrics were measured at the moisture content of 0%, 20%, 40% and 60% using KES-F7 system (Thermo Iabo II type). The experimental properties were statistically analyzed by the rate of water absorbent. The main results were as follows; There is a positive correlation between the thermal insulation value (TIV) and thickness of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Whereas an negative correlation exists between the TIV and cover factor. There is a high positive correlation among the thermal conductivity (k), thickness and weight of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exist between the k and air' permeability (Ap). There is a high positive correlation between the feeling of warmth/coldness and bulk density of pure linen and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exists between the feeling of warmth/coldness and porosity. There is a negative correlation between TIV and $q_{max}$ of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics. The higher the rate of water absorbent, the lower the TIV. This means that TIV decreases by water absorption. As for the thermal property by rate of water absorbent $q_{max}$ and k increase by water absorption and reach max-value at 60% rate of water absorbent. The TIV decreases by water absorption and has +value at 0% rate of water absorbent, whereas it has -value with a feeling of coldness at 20%, 40%. and 60% rate of water absorbent.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제5권3호
• /
• pp.299-303
• /
• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권3호
• /
• pp.418-424
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제15권3호
• /
• pp.461-466
• /
• 2013

Synthetic fiber materials were developed due the desire of consumers for high-quality, high-performance and comfort. A high functionality of synthetic fiber can be obtained through surface treatment that can improve hydrophilic properties, color depth after dyeing and adhesion properties. These advantages create added-value. Hydrophobic properties are an important feature to create added-value (such as hydrophilic properties). One side processing is a method of imparting to contrary function on the front and rear side. In this study, fluorine-coated Nylon/PU blended fabric was treated on only one side with a low-temperature plasma treatment; subsequently, the contact angles decreased by increasing the time and intensity of the plasma treatment. The contact angle of the untreated surface and the treated surface was different. It a showed a difference in the properties of both surfaces. Tensile strength and stiffness decreased by increasing the time and intensity of the plasma treatment. However, plasma treatment did not significantly change the tensile strength and stiffness on both surfaces of the fabric. SEM photographs showed the surface of fluorine-coated fabric and the etching surface by using plasma treatment on the fabric. Plasma treatment was confirmed not to affect the physical properties of the fabric.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제17권1호
• /
• pp.289-298
• /
• 2004

패션텍스타일 산업의 미래를 제시할 수 있는 패션텍스타일 전용 CAD 시스템의 개발은 디지털 기술의 발달과 함께 가속화되고 있다. 이러한 디지털 문화 기반의 구축은 패션텍스타일 산업에서도 고부가가치의 상품개발과 신속한 생산체제의 변화가 요구되며, 이런 욕구에 충족할 수 있는 전용 프로그램들이 개발되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 디지털 패션텍스타일의 변화와 디자인 시스템의 구성과 특징을 고찰하고 디지털 패션텍스타일 디자인 전개방법을 비교분석하였다. 또한 기존 그래픽프로그램과 차별화되어 개발되고 있는 창의적인 디지털 패턴디자인의 전개와 변형, 적합한 직물 텍스츄어의 표현, 3D모델링을 통한 시뮬레이션효과를 체계적으로 정립하였다. 패션텍스타일 CAD시스템의 활용을 디자인적 측면과 생산적인 측면으로 나누어 패션텍스타일 디자인 전용 CAD의 활용 가치를 높이는데 중점을 두었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제23권5호
• /
• pp.667-673
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제21권3호
• /
• pp.356-362
• /
• 2019

This study investigated the substantivity of anionic dyes for cationic-modified new rayon (cocell) fabric treated with cationic agent (CA), 3-(Chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)-trimethylammonium chloride (CA). We also investigate the dyeability of cationic-modified new rayon fabric after dyeing with gallut. CA was converted in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide into epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride. Treating with this epoxy reagent modified the hydroxyl groups of the new rayon fabric into the trimethylammonium group through ether linkage. The introduction of new cationic sites into new rayon fabric by pretreating with cationic agent improved the substantivity of the Gallnut dye with the new rayon dyebath. The degree of the cationization of cationic-modified new rayon and cotton fabric was evaluated by nitrogen (N) content. This study extracted the colorant of gallnut with hot water at $90^{\circ}C$ and 120 min. Cationic-modified new rayon fabric dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration of gallnut, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and concentration of cationic agent. Dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation after dyeing with gallut solution. In addition, fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The degree of crystallinity of new rayon and cotton fabric were 42.15% and 54.94%, respectively. N (%) content of cationic-modified new rayon was higher than the cationic-modified cotton. Dyeability (K/S) increased significantly with the increasing concentration of CA and gallut.