• 복식
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Kokuryo has been the exchange foreign relationship with the Han dynasty era, from king DaiMuSin 25 years to Bojang 27 years. 2 King of Kokuryo, from The North-Wei-dynasty has been received ceremonial costumes, first-third class of China's official rank. After unification of China, Su, Dang dynasty's envoy and missionary and many commercial men and artist come from China to Kokuryo, therefore, influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peoples costumes, without concern of that one's social position. 3. Kokuryo King's ceremonial costumes are not the same as the China. Kokuryo performed a religious service an emperor's ceremony. And the Kokuryo King's religious mind was the Budism and Daoism. So that mural painting just showing the symbolic of the king's costumes , Myunryukwanbok.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.69-78
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• 2006

In the early Joseon when royal authority was not still firmly established, King Taejong, or Lee Bang Won tried to make their political position guaranteed through relationships with Ming, making efforts to develop relations with the Chinese nation positively. This political orientation towards Ming by of the king Taejong was also clearly reflected in the settlement of official uniform in the early Joseon, which can be described as follows. Gaoming(誥命), Yinxin(印信) and Mianfu(冕服) granted by Ming for the first time since the foundation of Joseon suggested that the Chinese nation recognized the formal settlement of Joseon dynasty and the inauguration of King Taejong. presumedly, the grants played a critical role in the firm establishment by King Taejong of his royal authority under unstable political conditions. Under the reign of King Taejong, Joseon tried to abolish ancient regime and, instead, accept systems and institutions of Ming as it maintained smooth relations with the Chinese nation. King Taejong whose royal authority was locally deemed lack in legitimacy and morality wanted to receive the moral recognition of his reign. So the monarch tried to not only strengthen his authority, but also take in advanced culture and civilization through submissive diplomatic relations with Ming. This was a practical diplomatic strategy that was clearly discriminated from toadyism. It was a policy towards Ming, pursuing substantial national benefit. Therefore, official uniform system under the reign of King Taejong should be understood accordingly.