• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.275-286
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• 2021

In this study, the analytical solution for diffraction near a vertical detached breakwater was suggested by superposing the solutions of diffraction near a semi-infinite breakwater suggested previously using linear wave theory. The solutions of wave forces acting on front, lee and composed wave forces on both side were also derived. Relative wave amplitude changed periodically in space owing to the interactions between diffracting waves and standing waves on front side and the interactions between diffracting waves from both tips of a detached breakwater on lee side. The wave forces on a vertical detached breakwater were investigated with monochromatic, uni-directional random and multi-directional random waves. The maximum composed wave force considering the forces on front and lee side reached maximum 1.6 times of wave forces which doesn't consider diffraction. This value is larger than the maximum composed wave force of semi-infinite breakwater considering diffraction, 1.34 times, which was suggested by Jung et al. (2021). The maximum composed wave forces were calculated in the order of monochromatic, uni-directional random and multi-directional random waves in terms of intensity. It was also found that the maximum wave force of obliquely incident waves was sometimes larger than that of normally incident waves. It can be known that the considerations of diffraction, the composed wave force on both front and lee side and incident wave angle are important from this study.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2009.02b
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• pp.88-88
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• 2009

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.72-77
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• 1998

해안에서 인류에게 기쁨과 동시에 슬픔을 안겨주는 자연현상으로 파랑의 역동적인 거동을 들 수 있겠다. 이러한 파랑의 거동에 대한 물리적인 규명은 지금까지도 계속 연구되고 있는 주제로서 파랑의 거동을 가장 정확하게 규명하는 수학적인 모형중의 하나는 Boussinesq 방정식이라고 사료된다 이는 천해에서 파랑 상호간의 비선형성과 불규칙성을 대체로 정확히 규명할 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.240-249
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• 2016

In this study, we investigated wave force distribution at points on a vertical structure of semi-infinite breakwater considering diffraction. Wave forces of monochromatic and random waves on a vertical structure are studied considering diffractions in front and lee side of the breakwater for non-breaking wave condition. We selected width of breakwater are 0 for reference condition. In monochromatic wave case, relative wave force becomes 0 on the head of the breakwater by acting incident wave force and diffracting wave force simultaneously and oscillating patterns of relative wave force occurs based on 1.0 as distance from the head increases. Relative wave force of monochromatic waves decreases as incident wave angle increases. Relative wave force of random waves is defined by using ratio of root mean square and wave force spectrum in this study. The case considering random phase of each wave components are compared to the case which don't consider random phase and both results are almost similar. Relative wave force of random waves is also 0 near the head of the breakwater likewise monochromatic wave. Oscillating pattern of relative wave force of random waves becomes relatively weaker for composition of each wave components as distance from the head increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.242-251
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• 2020

In this study, the extraction efficiency and reflection coefficient by a two-dimensional OWC (Oscillating Water Column) WEC (wave energy converter) installed in front of a seawall was investigated for regular/irregular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method (MEEM) based on the linear potential theory was applied as an analytical tool. The diffraction problem by the incident wave in the open-chamber and the radiation problem by the oscillating pressure in the closed-chamber were solved to obtain the volume fluxes at the internal free-surface. Applying the volume fluxes into the continuity equation for the airflow in a chamber, we got the oscillating air pressure. The maximum extracted power and corresponding reflection coefficient were determined at the optimal turbine coefficient that maximizes the extracted power. OWC device designed for a high extracted efficiency simultaneously contributes to reduce reflected waves.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.705-712
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• 2001

It is of great importance to represent the directional ocean waves in a laboratory basin for hydraulic model tests. The directional ocean waves can be expressed as a linear superposition of a large number of component waves with different frequencies and propagating directions. The aim of the study is to check the wave generating characteristics by serpent-type wave generating system in PKNU (Pukyong National University) which is composed of 10 piston-type wave generators. In the experiment, spatial variation of irregular wave heights and propagating angles are measured in the multi-directional wave maker basin. Target wave directional spectrum is reproduced in the area of multi-directional wave maker basin. The directional spreading of the generated waves varied spacially in the basin. They differed from target spectrum as the measurement point becomes far from the center line normal to the generator face, The effective generation area where that target can be reproduced is limited to the triangular area attached the generator face. According to the results, it is emphasized that the effective experiment area in the basin considered wave generator characteristics should be determined in consideration of experimental conditions including structural shapes, water depth, wave directionality etc.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.23-40
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• 1974

Semisubmersible 해양석유시추선의 기본설계에 필요한 파랑중(波浪中)에서 운동(運動)을 계산(計算)하는 이론적방법(理論的方法)을 제시하고 "MOHOLE"과 "SEDCO 1350-F" 석유시추선들의 운동(運動)을 해석하였다. 이 규칙파에서 운동계산을 불규칙해양파(波)에 적용하는 응용해석을 보여주었다. 현재 이론적 방법으로는 6자유도(自由度)의 운동을 해양파의 어떤 방향에 대해서도 정확히 계산할 수 있으며 계산의 정확성은 수조(水槽)에서의 모형선의 운동측정치와 실선(實船)의 운동측정치와 비교하여 증명되었다. 또 현재의 방법은 종전에 개발된 방법보다 더 일반적(一般的)인 경우를 다룰 수 있으며 결과치도 더 정확하다. 극소운동특성을 갖는 해양석유시추선과 부체(浮體)해양구조물의 설계는 경비가 비싸고 시간이 많이 드는 모형실험보다는 유체역학적(流體力學的) Parameters를 신속 정확히 자주 변경 검토해야 하는 기본설계단계에서는 정확한 이론적인 전자계산기에 의한 계산방법이 절실히 필요하다. 예상(豫想)과 같은 부가질량(附加質量)과 감쇠력(減衰力)은 Resonance 운동주기에서만 운동에 영향을 준다. 해양구조물에 작용하는 파력(波力)은 Froude-Krilov force, 부가질량(附加質量) 및 감쇠력(減衰力)과 Restoring force로 구성했으며 규칙파(規則波)에서의 6자유도(自由度) 운동방정식은 본 논문에 제시된 실험측정치(値)와 실험으로 정확도가 증명된 이론치(値)의 부가질량과 감쇠력 계수(係數)를 써서 풀었다. 규칙파(規則波)에서의 계산된 운동을 Pierson Moskowitz 해양파(海洋波) 스펙트럼과 linear superposition principle에 의해 불규칙해양파(不規則海洋波)에서의 운동을 계산하는데 사용했다. 불규칙파(不規則波)에서의 운동은 운동스펙트럼과 통계적 운동치로 나타냈다. 현재의 계산방법은 실제 기본설게에 사용되어 왔으며, 다른 응용분야는 파랑중(波浪中)에서의 파면(波面)과 Deck간(間)의 Clearance, 계류선(係留線)의 동장력(動張力)계산의 기본 Data 및 기본설계의 Draft 등 Parameters를 통(通)한 Optimum Design 등(等)이다. 파(波)의 한 방향(方向)에 대(對)한 전자계산기(電子計算機)(IBM 370 또는 CDC 6400)에 의한 운동계산은 10초(秒)미만밖에 안걸린다. 또 현재의 계산방법은 해양석유시추선뿐 아니라 이와 비슷한 부체(浮體)해양구조물과 Pipe-laying선(船) 또 Supply Boat설계(設計)에도 쓰여지고 있다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.39-50
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• 2018

In this study, the nonlinear interaction of irregular waves with wave breaking and currents around permeable submerged breakwater was investigated with the aid of olaFlow model which is open source CFD software published under the GPL license. The irregular wave performance of olaFlow applied in this study was verified by comparing and evaluating the target frequency spectrum and the generated frequency spectrum for applicability to irregular waves. Based on the applicability of this numerical model to irregular wave fields, in the coexistence fields of irregular waves and currents, the characteristics of wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater with the respect to the beach type and current direction versus wave propagation were carefully investigated. The numerical results revealed that the shape of wave breaking on the crown of the submerged breakwater and the formation of the mean flow velocity around the structure depend greatly on the current directions and the type of the beach. In addition, it was found that the wave height fluctuation due to the current direction with respect to the wave propagation is closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.