• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.755-773
• /
• 2010

The purpose of the study was to examine concept of subculture and style of subculture by each age and to analyze internal meaning of hairstyle in subculture. The study carried out literary review on the basis of books related to subculture and hairstyle focused on the cradle of subculture and preceding researches of subculture style, and strived to find internal meaning of hairstyle by describing in-depth descriptive methods of qualitative research. And the study limited its range in the hairstyle in style of subculture from 1930s to early 1990s commonly described in subculture related books. As a result, there were natural pattern, cutting pattern, exaggerated pattern, set pattern, braid pattern, color pattern and addition pattern in types of hairstyle in subculture. The hairstyle in subculture symbolizes their internal value and ideology and hairstyle is a kind of language to express identity of subculture.

• 복식
• /
• 제53권7호
• /
• pp.37-45
• /
• 2003

This study is to research the changing trends in the trading goods and the cause of the change in the early Chosun dynasty and to find out the influence that the export goods had on the Chosun society. This research demonstrated the costume culture of the early Chosun was affected by the trading trends. The export items of Chosun showed differences in chronological order. They changed from hemp cloth to cotton cloth. The cause of such change in the export items was due to the change in the amount of demand and supply, to products of Chosun. and to social factors. Looking at the amount and items of the export goods to Japan, the amount was huge and the number of trade was a lot. There were several influences that the exporting cotton cloth to Japan had on Chosun's costume culture. First, the export caused the growth of cotton industry through the reinforcement policy. Next, it made the amount of national deposit of cotton cloth exhausted as a result of the increase in the amount of the exporting cotton. It also made worse the dual distribution structure of cotton cloth and the leaning toward bad cotton cloth. And in consequence of the connection between rich merchants and politicians, these social phenomena became worse and worse. And these facts demonstrate that the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty was affected by the trade between Chosun and Japan. Therefore, to better understand the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty, I propose to consider the consequences resulted from the trade with Japan.

• 한국정밀공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국정밀공학회 2011년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
• /
• pp.1019-1020
• /
• 2011

• 복식
• /
• 제59권6호
• /
• pp.140-155
• /
• 2009

This study tries to find out the special twine technique of flat string and refers to historical documents, records, artifacts of excavated articles, and real materials. In Japan weaved cloth is called Jomul or Jonue and these methods were brought to Japan from Korea during Aska Period(645${\sim}$710) and Nara Period(710${\sim}$794). Among those knot methods, the 1/1 knot was written as a Shillajo on a documentary record at Heian Period, Engisik, and Samdaesillok which is a historic document from King Saiya to King Gowooko(858${\sim}$887). Also 2/2 knot weaving was recorded as Goryeojo that the technique originated for a long time in Japan. During the Joseon Dynasty, Gunmok was written as Dahoi, and Gwangdahoe, which means wide and flat Gunmok, was the name of Dae(Belt). The frame for the twine Gwangdahoe is no longer in Korea, but only can be found in Japan as a Goraiwoochi loom for Shillajo and Goryeojo from Korea. There are currently artifacts by the techniques of Shillajo and Goryeojo that were excavated in 15${\sim}$17C in Korea. Therefore this study was looked into the artifacts from 6${\sim}$8C in $Sh{\"{O}}so$-in, and the features of Dae (Belt) weaved by Shillajo and Goryeojo case method. Gwangdahoe excavated artifacts in the mid Jeosun Dynasty was restored by the process of Goryeojo weaving method.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권6호
• /
• pp.101-116
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this thesis is in investigating the Korean twenties face color, according to the seasons, thus presenting a sample Korean Facial Color Map. The face is divided into 20 parts to take measures, and investigated through the four seasons. Minolta Chrome Meter CR-200 has been used for taking measures of the face color. Measuring subjects and area are, University students of both sex, living in the Suncheon. They are of ages the twenties. Classified measuring values of the skin colors are expressed following to the A. H. Munsell's color system. The result of this study is as followed. When comparing parts among male and female(make-up and no make-up) groups for changes with seasonal hue and value of a face color, differences have been sighted among these three groups following the seasons ; Spring(March), Summer(June), Autumn (September) and Winter(December). According to the result of Duncan's proof, the differences of the women group with the make-up attitude was shown only in value from Summer and Autumn, but no differences have been sighted between the make-up group and the no make-up group, concerning hue. Concerning hue, it was shown that men had a redder hue than women in all seasons. In Spring, both men and women had the strongest red hue, then from Summer to Autumn a strong yellowish hue appeared, to make place to a diverse coloring in Winter, followed by a reddish hue, to start all over again. Value number proved to be lower in the Summer and Autumn for the no make-up group when compared to the make-up group, showing an averaging high number for all seasons when putting on make-up; and men value number shows the lowest of the three groups.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권6호
• /
• pp.117-138
• /
• 2010

This study tries to analyse the type of sasanian crowns by looking into the icons and meanings of various motifs that changed the archetype and shape of the crowns, and the social and political factors that affected those motifs. Based on such analysis, the study is aimed at completing the periodic typology of the sasanian crown. For this study the literature research is combined with the empirical analysis of information. Korymbos which symbolizes globe represented the authority and power of the sasanian kings, but the motif with such meaning was replaced by star motif in the late-sasanian crowns. The basic motifs embellishing the sasanian crown represent Gods, which is interpreted as an attempt to symbolize the relations between Gods and kings. These motifs are found on each king's crown in a different and individual way, which seems because the kings at the time chose the motif that can symbolize their own political intention or spirit. At the early days of the sasanian dynasty, Korymbos motif was highly emphasized on the crowns, and was used throughout the end of the dynasty and then was replaced by star motif. From the mid-4th century, Crescent motif started to be used, which was always shown as the shape supporting Korymbos and star motif on it. Bird wing motif was intermittently used in the early and middle days of the dynasty, and was highly emphasized in the crowns of all the kings in the end of the dynasty. Star motif started to be used in the end of sasanian dynasty.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제24권5호
• /
• pp.640-651
• /
• 2000

In this Paper we examined the clothing & ornaments of Egyptian gods greatly related to religion in a mode of every living through illustrated data of relics and investigated their differences and similarities by comparing the clothing & ornaments of gods with one of royal families. First of all, the crown of gods shows various forms in accordance with is roles and symbols. Second, the clothing & ornaments of male gods is significantly different from one of king in that for the most part they wore loin-cloth and girdle on sheath-skirt. Third, goddess was wearing the same sheath-skirt as queen. Fourth, kalasiris which king and queen wore is not almost founded in costume of gods. Fifth, the typical accessories in Egypt, that is, passiums, bracelets and rings are founded in the clothing and ornaments of all gods. Sixth, gods seems not to be dressed in sandals. Seventh, a mustache of king is appeared in a form of large and straight line, but one of god is appeared in a form of small and bended line. Eighth, lion tale ornament and fail are founded in the clothing & ornaments of male god mainly and a stick is founded in one of goddess. Finally, ankh which is representative of eternal life is an ornament only gods are wearing.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제20권4호
• /
• pp.515-528
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study was to classify appearance management attitudes into groups and analyze the difference of self-efficacy and body satisfaction by the groups. Questionnaires were administered to 255 college students living in Deagu Metropolitan City and Kyungbook province. The data collected were analyzed by using frequency, factor analysis, cluster analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan-test, t-test, and ${\chi}^2$-test. The findings were as follows. Appearance management attitudes of college students were classified into three groups such as group health body, low body interest group, emphasizes collective body. The appearance management attitudes showed significant correlation with the sub-variables of self-efficacy and body satisfaction. Male students showed no significant difference in self-efficacy by the groups while female students showed a significant one in task performance which was a sub-variable of self-efficacy. Both of the male and female students showed a significance of difference in the gap between actual and ideal weight which was a sub-variable of body satisfaction by the groups. Gender of college students showed distinction between the sub-variables of self-efficacy factors such as task performance, and anxiety and body satisfaction such as BMI, the difference between current height and ideal height, the difference between current weight and ideal weight.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권1호
• /
• pp.97-108
• /
• 2004

This study was conducted to examine the marking efficiency of a dress pattern in order to reduce textile loss by pattern marking. A basic one-piece dress pattern saved to the Yuka CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marking efficiency in different conditions. Condition of marking experiment is made it a rule to use 150cm textile width and apply 44, 55, 66 pattern size for three pieces of a dress patterns. The results of the study indicated that the marking efficiency rates of the dress pattern with a separate facing was higher than the one with a self facing. In the dress pattern with a separate facing, the separated seam at center back was appeared to have a higher marking efficiency than the extended seam. It was also found that the efficiency rate was higher in the pattern with a seam at center back when comparing with the dress pattern without a seam. When the marking with a horizontally-loaded collar was compared with a vertically-loaded collar, the efficiency rate was higher for the collar loaded horizontally, The result of the study showed that the type of facing, the location of a seam, and the direction of collar loading were the factors directly related to increasing marking efficiency. The dress patterns marked efficiently in terms of a type of facing, seam, and collar treatment can reduce fabric loss and also shorten the time needed for marking process.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권6호
• /
• pp.106-117
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present a new vision for high value-added knit wear design by designing and producing knitted one-piece dress by digital textile printing which based on digital making a new industry, culture, and lifestyle in a new millenium. According as casual fashion is more and more popular, preferring knit wear, a key item of casual fashion, continues to increases. Therefore it is important to study knit wear design practically, try a new technique, and represent creative designs. As a method of the study, visual and textural data were investigated for theory of knit and DTP and a variety of knit design samples were illustrated Especially, to perform a study based on the industry, this researcher worked and experienced at J fashion Ltd., knit wear promotion company. Firstly, the theory of DTP was investigated and then 3 knitted one-pieces were designed and produced. The concept of design was digital geometry which represented chic and modern image in digital age. Target was city adult group from the late teens to the late twenties and keeping open mind and active lifestyle and enjoying the activity and unique characteristics of knit wear. This study has developed knitted one-piece design by DTP technique which has been generally applied to woven fabric. This is of great significant in opening a new way of high value-added knit wear design.