• 제목/요약/키워드: 복식사

검색결과 96건 처리시간 0.024초

뵐플린(H. Wolfflin)의 양식사(樣式史)에 따른 Renaissance와 Baroque의 복식에 관한 연구 (A study on the Costume in Renaissance and Baroque Focusing on Wolfflin′s Theory)

  • 주명희
    • 한국농촌생활과학회지
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    • 제10권1호
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    • pp.43-57
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    • 1999
  • A style of art is an expression of human aesthetic desires, social environment and other cultural yeatures of that time. costume as a means of physical existence of such expression cannot be studied apart from the art style of any given time. In this paper an attempt is made to find out the characteristics of costumes in Renaissance and Barogue by examing the theory of Wolfflin. The organic relationship with the manifestation of human beauty in the genuine art and its formality was clear so that the fact that the dress and its costume are actually a synthetic art and there is close connection with genuine art were made clear. In conclusion, costume and art style are in different genre, they pursued the same way in the same category of Wolfflin's theory in Renaissance and Baroque.

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조선시대 우의(雨衣) 연구 (A Study on Raincoats in Joseon)

  • 박선희
    • 복식
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    • 제63권3호
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    • pp.124-137
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    • 2013
  • This study tried to get a deeper understanding of the characteristics of raincoats in Joseon by searching through historic records: the Annals of Joseon(朝鮮王朝實錄), personal or official records, paintings, etc. The time range of the research covers the entire period of Joseon. There were two prime types of raincoats: Saui, a cyperus coat, and Yusam(油衫), an oilcloth coat. The study proceeded as follows: 1) Identifying the people who wore the coats as well as the time period, 2) Figuring out the shapes and materials of those raincoats, 3) Postulating the reasons for the upward trend in popularity of a certain type as well as the eventual downward trend. Those research efforts revealed the following: 1) In the early Joseon, from royals to commoners, people wore Saui. But as time passed valuation about Saui might have become degraded. Eventually it became regarded as a farmer's smock in the 19th Century. 2) Yusam might not have been worn in the early Joseon. It was developed and spread after the middle of 17th Century. It was for soldiers and nobles, especially travelers, but by the end of the Joseon period, it was also used by commoners. 3) Saui was made of cyperus, but Yusam was made of oiled paper, cotton or silk. Those shapes were similar to a Western cloak. The analysis of the research findings led to following conclusions: 1) Around the middle of Joseon, people started to wear Yusam after the introduction of a Chinese version of it. 2) Yusam might have become popular in Joseon because of the social and cultural implications. At that time, people had pride in their culture and thought that real experiences and travels were important. 3) As people became fond of Yusam more, then Saui's popularity fell.

미국드라마 CSI 에 나타난 사인(死因)에 따른 상처분장의 특성 연구 (A Study on the Characteristics of the Make-up on Corpses Depending on the Cause of Death in the American Drama CSI)

  • 김유경;오인영
    • 복식
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    • 제60권2호
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    • pp.99-113
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    • 2010
  • The corpse make-up depending on the cause of death shown in CSI is the only evidence to solve a case, and shows the characteristics of the unique make-up on the corpse, according to the causes of death. There are many types of death causes such as strangulation, manslaughter, assassination and shooting, of which the strangulation is caused by strangling the neck with the hands or using a weapon and has characteristics of showing other external wounds with purple spots appearing on the body after death. This is a presentation of the corpse with a face of white, and the purple spots bruised on the neck. Manslaughter shows deep wounds caused by a stab or laceration using a weapon, and the material feeling of the wound that makes new skin tissue, is realistically presented with make-up of gooey blood. Assassination can be thought as manslaughter in disguise as an accidental death, which the causes can be due to electrocution, suffocation from oxygen deficiency and from excessive monoxide. The make-up is presented by realistically showing the surrounding fragments of the bullet shell, the blood running down, the size of the hole in the body made from the bullet, and shows the broken skin tissues. The shape of the bullet wound can be presented differently based on the body part where the bullet penetrated into, and the part where the bullet shot out through.

17세기 네덜란드 델프트 학파 회화에 나타난 동양풍 연구 (A Study on Orientalism in the Paintings of Delft School in 17th Century Netherlands)

  • 김명은;배수정
    • 복식
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    • 제65권8호
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    • pp.136-150
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.

문수사 복장직물에 관한 소고 (A Study of The Fabrics for Enshrining Oblations inside a Buddhist Statue in MoonSoo Temple)

  • 권영숙;장현주
    • 복식
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    • 제51권6호
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    • pp.101-115
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    • 2001
  • This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

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전통 국기복 디자인에 관한 미학적 고찰 -씨름복을 중심으로- (An Aesthetic Review on the Traditional Active Sports Wear Design - Focusing on Korean Wrestling Uniform-)

  • 윤을요;박선경
    • 디자인학연구
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    • 제18권3호
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    • pp.105-116
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    • 2005
  • 본 연구는 전통 문화상품으로 잠재력을 지니고 있는 씨름의 이미지 구축에 관한 복식 연구로서, 씨름복의 체계화 및 시각화에 관한 방안제시, 그리고 씨름복 디자인 개발에 관한 기초 기반연구를 목적으로 하고 있다. 따라서 기초적인 부분으로는 씨름복의 역사성에 대한 탐구로 세계 씨름과 우리나라의 씨름을 비교 고찰해 보았으며, 씨름복에 관한 변천사에 관하여 탐구해 보았다. 또한 실질적인 부분으로는 현행 씨름 및 씨름복에 관한 기준에 대하여 그 내용을 숙지하고, 디자인 기반 연구로서 씨름복이 갖는 미학적인 부분을 크게 네 가지 항목으로 분류하여 첫째 전통성과 독창성, 둘째 유온성과 적합성, 셋째 상징성과 장식성, 넷째 다양성과 통일성으로 그 내용을 체계화하였다. 결론적으로 씨름복 디자인 기획에 있어 가장 중요한 부분은 상기에서 제시한 미학적 부분을 토대로 일관된 컨셉을 시각화하는데 있다. 이번 연구는 씨름복에 관한 미학적 부분의 이론 연구로서, 디자인 컨셉 설정 및 디자인 전개의 지침을 제시하는데 의의를 지니며, 향후 추진될 전통 문화 복식 디자인의 기획에 관한 기반연구였다는 점에 그 의미를 둔다.

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일반 수업과 IC-PBL 적용 수업의 비교를 통한 패션복 식사의 교육 효과 연구 (A Study on the Educational Effect of the History of Fashion and Costume through a Comparison of General Lecture and IC-PBL(Industry-coupled Problem-based Learning))

  • 정연이;이영재
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제25권2호
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    • pp.98-109
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    • 2021
  • The purpose of this study was to present the case of class operation by paralleling a general instructor's lecture class and a IC-PBL class in a fashion design major course and comparing the educational effects. The teaching model of this study was designed to improve the ability to use the knowledge gained in accordance with the needs of the industrial field and to develop an independent learning ability. It will provide meaningful data. This study measured and considered the qualitative items of self-efficacy and changes in class perception through interviews and questionnaires completed by the learners after experiencing each general class and IC-PBL class. The results of this study are, first, that in the History of Fashion and Costume class, the general teaching method and the IC-PBL teaching method were applied in parallel to design a class, and a method case was presented. Second, as a result of comparing the educational effects of the two teaching methods through a student questionnaire, IC-PBL was more effective in improving learning attitude, learning achievement and self-efficacy. In addition, after the IC-PBL class on History of Fashion and Costume, the students' negative perception of team activities improved, and the students' cooperative ability and creativity improved.

한지사 영·유아복 개선 방안 모색을 위한 연구 - 한지와 한지사 영·유아복 이미지 조사를 중심으로 - (Methods to improve infant clothing made with Hanji yarn - Investigating the image of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing -)

  • 주정아;심준영;김현철
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제21권1호
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    • pp.57-65
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    • 2013
  • With environmental pollution becoming a serious problem, recently there has been increased interest in the environment and health. In addition, the development of materials for environmentally friendly and functional clothing has increased. Environmentally friendly products that use bark fibers of the mulberry(dak) tree are expressed in terms of dak fiber and Hanji yarn. This research analyzed consumer's perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing. The research results are as follows. Based on analyzing images of Hanji and Hanji yarn, Hanji was categorized into four images that can be described as natural, pure, decorative, and functional, and Hanji yarn infant clothing was categorized into three images that can be described as natural, decorative, and functional. Based on the analysis of well-being elements in subjects' lifestyles, the following four inclinations were found: environmental friendliness, pursuit of novelty, life care, and environmental protection. On this basis, the subjects were categorized into three groups: the trend-pursuing group, the life-care group, and the social responsibility group. Subjects' perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing were investigated, and these products were found to have a strong image of being Korean, traditional, and natural, while being weakly perceived as comfortable, functional, and practical. Analyzing the correlation between images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing and lifestyle groups revealed that these products were not perceived differently according to group. This study showed that Hanji and Hanji yarn are terms that are commonly associated with positive clothing material. However, both Hanji and Hanji yarn are perceived negatively in terms of functional image, which is an important factor in clothing material. In addition, even among consumers who pursue a lifestyle based on well-being, the functional image of Hanji yarn was not perceived highly. Hence, it is necessary to further examine the effect of terms such as Hanji and Hanji yarn on consumer choices. Therefore, caution is considered needed when using such terms in the marketing of related products.

고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰 (A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty)

  • 최규성
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제12권6호
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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남녕위(南寧尉) 윤의선(尹宜善)의 1837년 「혼수발기」 속 부마 편복(便服) 고찰 (Namnyeong-wie, Yun Eui-Seon's Everyday Clothes included in Wedding Gift List in 1837)

  • 이은주
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제54권3호
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    • pp.68-89
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    • 2021
  • 헌종 3년(1837) 순원왕후(純元王后, 1789~1857)는 막내딸 덕온공주(德溫公主, 1822~1844)의 8월 가례를 맞아 부마 남녕위(南寧尉) 윤의선(尹宜善, 1823~1887)에게 혼수품을 내렸다. 그 물목을 적은 「혼수발기」가 국립한글박물관에 소장되어 있는데 「혼수발기」를 통해 19세기 전기의 부마 편복에 관해 살펴본 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 「발기」 속 편복 품목을 대략 36종으로 정리하고 용도별로 ① 상의류 9종, ② 하의류 8종, ③ 관모와 수식 10종, ④ 허리띠와 주머니 4종, ⑤ 부채 3종과 신발 2종으로 분류하였다. 둘째, 남녕위의 편복 중 가장 중요한 의복은 남광사 도포와 남광초 창의(대창의)로 구성된 통상예복이었다. 그 외에 창의 2점(남광수사·청저포), 중치막 1점(남생경광주), 쟁친 상침긴옷 1점(옥색 쌍문초), 모시 홑창옷 1점(소창의), 겹저고리 2점(보라색 설사, 저포), 당포적삼에 생경광주한삼과 저포한삼이 있었고 하의류로는 겹바지와 고의(홑바지), 당포 행전과 버선 2켤레, 초록사 요대, 옥색사 대님이 있었다. 셋째, 관모와 부속품으로 밀화영과 사영을 갖춘 흑립, 정자관·동파관, 받침모 탕건과 복건이 있었으며 수발(修髮)에 필요한 상투관과 세 종류의 동곳(산호·밀화·순금), 옥관자를 갖춘 망건이 있었다. 특히 정자관과 동파관은 18세기 이후 신분별 구분이 있던 관모인데 남녕위에게는 정자관과 동파관을 함께 보냈다. 넷째, 홍색 계통의 세조대와 부싯돌을 담을 쌈지와 사낭, 그리고 옥선추를 장식한 선자, 사직물로 만든 모선, 소접(小摺) 등의 부채류, 운혜와 당혜 신발도 포함되어 있었다. 마지막으로, 『덕온공주가례등록』의 복식 기록과는 달리 「혼수발기」의 복식 기록이 당시의 실제적인 복식 명칭임을 확인하였으며 19세기 전기 부마 편복의 구체적인 구성을 확인할 수 있었다.